[NitroCrackers]

I want to know if I can find a way to start this engine in my Tmaxx
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLNF9&P=ML
I noticed it has a standerd backplate and I wonder if I can conver it to pull start or if I can fit a starter wheel on an airplane starter in my maxx to bump it?

Here is a pic of my Tmaxx...

It looks like crap now but I am short on funds atm and will hopefully have it completed in the spring so I wont miss any racing. You can see I am in the middle of switching from the stock arms to the proline arms which I have noticed have the shock mounting positions even further out on the suspension arms! I hope to keep the stcok plastic bulks and stock diffs if I dont break them (only racing) and I want to keep the stock driveshafts if I can but, I plan on putting Losi Eight rear buggy shocks all around (only 4 shocks) and I read that the stock sliders may contact them. SOOO, I may end up going with some CVD's or try running my Xray XB8 rear shocks on it and see if they will clear the shafts. I have had 2 brushless E-Maxxs and neither of them have blown the diffs, but the did do a number on the shafts. The shafts were just twisetd though and looked like candy cains (sp?) and were still usable.


Sorry for the long usless rant, my car broke down and I have been stuck at home for the past 3 days

If anyone can help me with my engine question, I would greatly appreciate it!

-Anthony

[Adanmtxt1]

I can tell that is going to be a serious looking T-maxx. Good work so far. The differentials will probably require replacing if you install a powerful motor (even a small block like the TZ). The sliders will need replacing with either modified Revo shafts or, better yet, MIP CVDs. As for starting..... you'd be better off with the TM, which is perfectly suited to either the EZ Start or a pull starter. If real, prodigious power is what you crave, there is the EB Modified version of the TM which makes, compared to a stock TM of 1.6 HP, 2.3 HP !! That's more than either the stock TZ (1.8) or EB modified TZ (2.1). I'd go with a TM for small block power.

Good luck!

[Maz]

As with most output ratings by O.S. they are Extremely conservative. The factory lists the Output at 1.8Hp but on dyno tests the TZ rated a whole lot higher.

In a recent dyno test for an upcoming issue of RC Nitro Magazine, the new O.S. 18TZ rear-exhaust engine cranked out a record setting 2.28 bhp at 30,500 rpm. Steve Pond, R/C Nitro magazine

...in short, there is no other engine like the TZ for power to weight output for an equivelant outlay of money...anywhere. But being a Bump-start only motor means it is not suited to every job.
Which is why O.S. have a wide range, including the .18 TM

The .18 TM is the hassle-free way to pump up the performance in your T-Maxx or Revo monster machine... because you don't have to modify your model to make it fit! Just drop it in — and you'll instantly enjoy more race-winning speed, as well as more power for backyard bashing!

but when you look at the figures for output by this motor please remember that the company is extrememly conservative with it's output rating. This means that you get more than you were expecting when you mash the throttle...rather than manufacturers who make outrageous HP claims but do not actually deliver that power they say you will get from thier products.

Sorry I can not help with the conversion questions.

[skylineTT]

yeah that EB TM is pretty stinkin nice. i dont know if you already bought the TZ but you could try and sell it (if you bought it) to fund the TM. or just but a picco .26

[Maz]

Originally Posted by skylineTT

...or just but a picco .26

to replace a small block engine??

[NitroCrackers]

Thank you Adanmtxt1

im looking for all out power, but im not sure what to go with. i dont understand why the tz has more power stock but, the tm out performs it when its modified??? If I do go outside of the .18 range, my next choice is an RB 523 wich is easily started with a pullstart or ez start. I wanted to keep the small block so I could race in the small block class but, from what Ive been told, there is no small block class at my local track. just truggy and mt. If I do stick with a small block, I would like to have a modified one for obvious reasons... thats why I am asking if I can fit an airplane starter in there or convert the modified engine to a pullstart. (I dont know if the tab on the crank is still there for all the equipment) I will probably end up with a bigblock maxx with mip cvds and aluminum diff cases (if not UE 6 or 8 spyder) although this is shying away from what I had originally hoped for which was to build a small block racer that is lighter then a stock 2.5 maxx. We will see what the future holds. Right now my real ride is being towed to the transmission shop (stabs wallet) and I am waiting until january to see if I have entered my new job. If all goes well, I should have a decent truck to start the race season with!

[Duster_360]

To start the bump start TZ with airplane type bump starter is going to be tough. From the top you have fuel tank on one side and the exhaust on other. Plus the air cleaner usually overhangs trans helping to block access to the flywheel. From below - never happen with that chassis, just too many things in the way.

I have a pred in a build up stage and am facing some of these same things. Mine will run TM so there is no probs and using the offset motor mount I'll be able to run 8th scale clutch. I went with UE 6 spyders and UE 6mm cvds. The mips are a poor replacement, I had a set of mips do a lot of damage to my slayden style maxx when the pin (which was modded with notch and red loctited and heatshrinked) backed out. That maxx was swapped to rdlogics cvd which never caused any probs running a TM.

There was a big section on what it took to swap PS onto a TZ on tamiya trucks and I don't remember about the crank pin. If TZ has one, prob can do it, if not, you'll need crank which is expensive. Other down side to the bump start TZ is the rod business that rubs the backplate casuing premature failure of the brgs unless you find the rod spacer and install same. The PS version or the TM doesn't have that issue.

[eatergoatmania]

4get the tz get a .21tm baddest motor ever made

[rccardude04]

Dude...
Stop awakening old threads. The last post here was November 9th, 2006. That's 1 and a half years ago. The 21TM wasn't even being thought of at that time.
You just woke up another thread that hadn't been posted in since September of 2007.
-Eric

[one]

Old thread or not, that's a nice chassis.