[PeterV]

I'll start things off with some good setup stuff from Steve Slayden:

The box-stock setup of the Slash 4x4 models (standard, Platinum, and Ultimate) is geared toward high bite surfaces. That is why there is a level of push in the chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments. Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on the track for the first time.

Front end:
- outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
- shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
- camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
- diff: 10K to 15K

Rear end:
- sway bar: black
- diff: 5K to 7K

- install center diff (50K to 100K)

----------------

Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
of it. This truck is SICK when setup

SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

- Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.

- Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.

- Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE steering.

- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2

- Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves steering and helps settle the front end during landings.

- Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a linear rate and feel a bit smoother.

- Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F

- Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the inner hinge pin.

- Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)

- Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks with bite.

- Bumpsteer: Flat: up

Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the aluminum accessory knuckles.

The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear) adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn in smooth and less aggressive.

SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

- Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.

- Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.

- Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro- Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite tracks. It improves chassis rotation.

- Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.

- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3

- Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.

- Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them to work within a happy range.

- Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F

- Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will also be
affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on high speed smooth tracks.

- Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on dusty loose tracks.

- Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way around

Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue

Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches. Calibers have been good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on abrasive cleam surfaces.

Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
Battery Location: rear
ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and 15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level. Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer acceleration and better turn in.

[rccardude04]

I just typed all this info into a setup sheet so it's easier to read, but it just won't upload here.

Let's see if this works...

If not, I can e-mail it to someone else and see if it'll work.

All I get are either "Invalid File" if it's too big, or a blank white screen with no error message at all otherwise.



-Eric

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

yeah i see it eric cool!

good to know!

[jlee]

Maybe if I woulda followed that, I might placed higher at the ShortCourse Showdown. I ran mine completely stock, did not alter ANYTHING. Did not add the Center diff, nothng. Wait.......I take that back I did mount some Proline Calibers on HPI Rims.

[MattHiggins]

Front Bumper Tip
This is a racing only tip. I do not recommend it for bashing around.

While racing and landing off big jumps, I noticed the body would sometimes pop out on top of the stock bumper and get stuck. To prevent this, I trimmed the top loop off the bumper and cleaned it up with a rotary tool. The body now pops back and the bumper looks a lot more like a real short course bumper.

[munim]

I posted this in another thread but it deserves to be here as well, heh.

1. If you run in wet conditions and sandy environments, the bearings will seize if you do not maintain them. What I did was take every single one apart, blasted them with electrical contact cleaner ( generic name for RC motor spray), and then packed them with automotive bearing and chassis grease. Otherwise get some Boca bearings part #58-205GS for $73 Green Seals or #58-205C-YS for the $100 Yellow Seals.

2. The driveshafts are the common Traxxas sliding half-shafts. These are made to a higher tolerance then before ( they fit together much better/tighter) so when dirt gets onto them, they don't slide smoothly. This results in stiffer and inconsistent suspension dampening. What you have to do is take them out, clean them, and then sand the male part of the driveshaft a bit so that they don't bind the next time dirt gets on them.

3. Gravel is the bane of the 4x4 Spur, you need to fashion some kind of foam shield so that small rocks and dirt don't get into the 'cavity' that houses the spur gear. Doing so will also protect the bearings in that area.

4. If you plan on doing large jumps, you will need the aluminum shock caps because the stock ones will strip. Part #3767A for blue, 3767X for red

5. The rear stub axles reportedly bend all the time, which hasn't happened to me, yet, so you may want to order several extras. Part #6853

None of these are deal breakers in my opinion, because other than these issues the truck is fantastic and I have a blast bashing with mine. I just thought I'd give you a heads up from my personal experience.

[bullett1818]

OK so I decided to solve the dreaded problem of rocks getting into and damaging the center drive shaft. It also covers the slipper nut as well to keep rock from jamming it up. What I did was get a 1/2" aluminum tube and cut it to length to fit between the slipper bearing and the front drive hub. I had to grind off the two little ribs in the shaft tunnel on the slash chassis to make the tube fit. Then I used the front drive shaft cover mounting hole to hold the tube in place. I did have to grind a little bit off of the motor mount plate to make it clear the tube. So far with where I am currently testing (campgrounds) on a gravel road, I am having no issues with rocks any more at all.











Let me know what you all think.

EDIT: Oh if anyone wants more pic's let me know.

-Bob-

[gixxer]

I just ordered a platinum roller and planning to install MMM 2650 castle setup. It should be a good fit with the traxxas esc mount kit but i'm quite worried about plastic drive shafts. Could the plastic drive shaft handle 3s-4s or I need to get some MIP CVD's? Also any gearing recommendations with 3s or 4s? I decied to go castle because i wanted to run cool.

[bullett1818]

Im not sure on any of those questions. I only run 2S right now. BUT my guess is with the MMM and 3S or 4S you will go through plastic shafts quickly. But what I have read I would not go with MIP but instead the new TEKNO shafts. supposed to be pretty beefy.

-Bob-

[rccardude04]

Bullett, does it just press against whatever the bearings ride inside?

That's brilliant either way. I may have to do that because mine is in pretty bad shape...

-Eric

[bullett1818]

Yeah the tube rests right on the bearing race. in the back, and in the front it is less than an 1/8 from the base of the drive hub.

-Bob-

[bullett1818]

You dont have a menards near you, but I believe this is what you need. It is from the same manufacturer.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_215889-37672...1&Ntt=aluminum tube&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=aluminum tube
__________________
-Bob-

[Jason Sams]

It may have been mentioned, but when I have raced my Slash 4x4, I run the battery pack centered. I cut the larger foam in half and run the pack in between each half of the original foam spacer. I felt the truck was more balanced in corners and over jumps.

[MattHiggins]

Originally Posted by Jason Sams

It may have been mentioned, but when I have raced my Slash 4x4, I run the battery pack centered. I cut the larger foam in half and run the pack in between each half of the original foam spacer. I felt the truck was more balanced in corners and over jumps.

Interesting. I'll try that. I have run mine front or back, but didn't even think to try centered.

[MattHiggins]

Since I only race my Slash 4X4, I removed the radio box and created a small radio tray out of thin carbon fiber for the speed control and receiver to sit on. I did this because now I'm running an aftermarket speed control (doesn't bolt to the chassis without a bracket) and it's just easier to work on the chassis. I also removed the nerf bars to save a few grams.

slash4x4escinstall.jpg