Brushless Advice

CeleryGod · #1 11-24-2003, 11:50 AM

I think I'd like to get a xxx-4, and definitely go the brushless route. BUT...I don't know which brushless to get, how much the xxx-4 can handle...etc. Hacker brushless seem expensive, and at the same time I don't know if I want a 6T in a xxx-4 anyways, as it'd probably be too fast to control. Would a Novak System work just fine for me?

Also, I've been hearing alot about these new Li-Po batteries...are they worth the investment now or should I wait for the technology to mature a little?

Thanks!

End Overend · #2 11-24-2003, 02:06 PM

As an owner of an XXX-4 with a Novak Super Sport, I might be able to help answer this question.

First the above listed combination is excellent. With a good set of GP cells it hits speeds in the upper 30 mph range and is very quick off of the line (I'm geared 21/94). The XXX-4 handles the power of the Novak just fine and could probably handle a bit more power (say 7 cells on a Novak). With the speeds this combo can hit on a track there isn't much of a need to go anthing more powerful, unless you do a lot of high speed runs on the street or run on a very big track.

The problem you are going to run into with the XXX-4 and other brushless systems is that their ESC's are to big to fit into the XXX-4 mounting areas with out some serious modification. The Novak has the smallest ESC of the bunch from what I've seen and it's almost too big.

I'm sold on the possibilities of Lithium Poly batteries, but not quite sold on purchasing them yet. I'm going to wait for the major manufactures to start producing them, or at least picking them up under their label. I say give it a year or so. If you already have batteries and chargers for NiCad or NiMh then why not stick with them until Lithium Poly batteries become more main stream, unless you have the financial backing to be able to experiment with Lithium Poly batteries.

As for the XXX-4, I would suggest you make a few mods to it if you pick one up. First pick up some DPM front A-Arms. They are made out of delrin and are much, much stronger than the stock A-Arms ($25.00). I would also pick up the G+ shock towers (around $15.00 total for the pair), they are much better than the stock shock towers. Other than that It's a great little car, with awesome performance and ton's of tuning ability.

CeleryGod · #3 11-24-2003, 02:22 PM

Great! Of course they have the fancy ol' xxx-4 graphite out now. But I don't think I need the graphite chassis anyways. Is the stock chassis pretty good?

Also, it says it has a single-belt drive system...however it looks like there's 2 belts to me in the pictures. I must be wrong somewhere. I guess I'd like to know how much maintenance there is involved in a belt system, and if it's as rock solid as the claim it is. How much run time do you get from a Novak System and a set of GP 3300's?

End Overend · #4 11-24-2003, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Great! Of course they have the fancy ol' xxx-4 graphite out now. But I don't think I need the graphite chassis anyways. Is the stock chassis pretty good?

Also, it says it has a single-belt drive system...however it looks like there's 2 belts to me in the pictures. I must be wrong somewhere. I guess I'd like to know how much maintenance there is involved in a belt system, and if it's as rock solid as the claim it is. How much run time do you get from a Novak System and a set of GP 3300's?

If you can afford the XXX-4 I would suggest going for it. In addition to the graphite parts you get: Ti turnbuckles, ball bearing steering, aluminum CVD's, Kevlar spur gear and a few other odds and ends. It's well worth the extra $60.00.

The stock chassis is fine and works great. The upgrades I mentioned were for weak areas of the XXX-4. I hear they have been addressed and may be corrected in the new kits, but they would still be worth the upgrade.

It is a single belt drive system. The belt tensioner makes it look like two, but it's only one. It takes about 15 minutes to change a belt and differential maintenance is easy and takes only 4-5 minutes to access a differential. So far maintenance is pretty minimal, and most other posts I've read on it would confirm this, with most people replaceing belts every 4-6 months.

As far as run time, I get 9-10 minutes of hard run time out of a set of 3300 GP's.

CeleryGod · #5 11-24-2003, 04:45 PM

I looked at HorizonHobby.com for the a-arms and shock upgrades, but couldn't seem to find them. What is a good place to buy xxx-4 equipment?

End Overend · #6 11-24-2003, 06:08 PM

For the front A-Arms that I mentioned, do a search on Yahoo for "DPM Racing". That should give you a link to their web site. I'm not sure that any online hobby shops carry these arms yet.

For the shock towers you can get them at a local hobby shop, Horizon Hobbies, etc. I don't have the parts number off hand, but you could also do a search for "Losi G+ Shock Towers" or something like that on Horizon Hobbies web site.

BlutoSigPi · #7 12-02-2003, 08:53 PM

Great thread...I'm thinking about doing the EXACT same thing. XXX4G+ and a Novak SS sys. What mounting problems did you run into when installing the ESC? Did you have to cut away at the chassis or..

End Overend · #8 12-02-2003, 11:33 PM

I didn't have to do anything to fit the Novak SS ESC into the XXX-4 chassis. It's a direct drop in.

The Motor with the circuit board sticking out from the sied of the motor gives a little bit of a problem with the body fitting over it. I cut out the space over the motor to give it more room, though you can make it fit. Opening the hole also gives better ventilation for the motor and ESC since they are all covered on the XXX-4.

BlutoSigPi · #9 12-03-2003, 01:33 PM

Oh i see now. That seems very minor to me. Thanks for the info.

End Overend · #10 12-03-2003, 02:47 PM

One other thing with the Novak SS and the XXX-4.

I would suggest shortening the big wires (not the sensor wires) that go from the motor to the ESC. They get in the way and raise the body up a bit on the electronics side. If you have a good soldering iron it's pretty easy.

In the XXX-4 the motor and ESC sit side by side so shorter works better. Plus it gives just a minor decrease in resistance with shorter wire which means more power to the motor

, though probably not enough to notice.

Also make sure you mount the motor low in the chassis, not high. This will put the pinion on the bottom of the spur gear, not the top. This will help with fitting the body to the buggy.

With the Novak make sure to replace the front (pinion side)bearing every month or two depending on how much you use your car. For what ever reason it's hard on that bearing or maybe they just use a weaker bearing from the factory. I blew one out on my first Novak (the replaced the motor and ESC for me) and I just replaced the bearing in the new one they sent me. After two months of running (moderate amounts) it was pretty rough. I suppose if you replace it with a high quality bearing it will last a lot longer.

Hope this helps some.

BlutoSigPi · #11 12-06-2003, 01:26 AM

Sweeet...thanks again for the info. Hopefully by the time I get to the point of picking up that system they will have improved the bearing quality.