Mamba Max Factory Answers Thread - Page 51

vaderbxman · #**1251** 08-08-2007, 09:05 PM

I guess I made the mistake of ordering from tower, cause I think I'm gonna be in college before it comes. But I'll be excited until that day!!

chilledoutuk · #**1252** 08-08-2007, 10:45 PM

dude you can cancel your order and then order from someone that has the system in stock.

ElectricThunder · #**1253** 08-08-2007, 11:19 PM

B-P-P has 'em in stock I believe. 178 shipped last time I checked.

GSMnow · #**1254** 08-15-2007, 09:08 AM

Yeah, they have all four packages in stock now. Here is the Mamba Max catalog page.

http://www.b-p-p.com/products.php?cat=40

I really want to get a second system, probably a 4600. I just have to se aside the money.

Cain · #**1255** 08-15-2007, 10:57 AM

I am thinking of a second unit too. (will actually be my third as I sold the first one). Would be cool to have both my B4 and T4 coming in brushless powered. Right now, the B4 will be getting 19T power as that is a popular class out here were some people run and the T4 will be brushless.

Quest · #**1256** 09-03-2007, 10:09 PM

I have used my MM in a RC10T3 for several years without a problem. I just installed my MM speed controller In my E-Maxx/Neu and after calibration I have no throttle. I went through the calibration sequence twice, updated software and reprogrammed it. Still nothing. Steering servo works, everything beeps appropriately and I get good colors with full throttle, brake and neutral. Anyone have ideas? What did I do wrong?

Oh, I disabled the BEC by disconnecting the red wire and installed an UBEC.Thanks

Nitro 4 me · #**1257** 09-03-2007, 10:40 PM

is the reverse disabled? if you give it reverse/brake does it move?

Quest · #**1258** 09-03-2007, 10:50 PM

No movement at all except for steering servo. i am thinking bad solder joint or esc problem.

GSMnow · #**1259** 09-04-2007, 04:04 AM

Do you hear the motor sing?
Do you get a yellow light at neutral, gree for throttle and red for brakes?
Do you have the ESC power switch on? with the BEC disabled, and separate power, you still need the switch on to power the ESC electronics.
What are you using for the wiring between the ESC and motor? Is it the stock bullit connectors? With one of them making a bad connection it should still studder, but 2 bad it won't move at all.
Check the motor windingd at the ESC connectors. With an ohm meter, each pair of wires will look virtually dead shorted. under 0.02 ohms is typical. I basically want you to make sure no pair reads open. A-B B-C C-A

And just because it came up on another thread, make sure the battery is fully charged for testing. Low volt cutoff could give you a fun time. In fact, check that the low volt cutoff was not set too low for the battery you are using.

Good Luck

Nitro 4 me · #**1260** 09-04-2007, 08:47 AM

do you have a HRS radio? The failsafe on that messed with me

Quest · #**1261** 09-04-2007, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSMnow

Do you hear the motor sing? No
Do you get a yellow light at neutral, gree for throttle and red for brakes? Yes
Do you have the ESC power switch on? with the BEC disabled, and separate power, you still need the switch on to power the ESC electronics. Did all that
What are you using for the wiring between the ESC and motor? Is it the stock bullit connectors? gold 4mm bulletsWith one of them making a bad connection it should still studder, but 2 bad it won't move at all.
Check the motor windingd at the ESC connectors. With an ohm meter, each pair of wires will look virtually dead shorted. under 0.02 ohms is typical. I basically want you to make sure no pair reads open. A-B B-C C-A Thanks this is what I needed

And just because it came up on another thread, make sure the battery is fully charged for testing. It wasLow volt cutoff could give you a fun time. In fact, check that the low volt cutoff was not set too low for the battery you are using. I had it disabled

Good Luck

Thanks for the help

Quest · #**1262** 09-04-2007, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitro 4 me

do you have a HRS radio? The failsafe on that messed with me

It is the stockTraxxas TQ3 radio.

GSMnow · #**1263** 09-05-2007, 01:50 AM

After several weeks of bashing my head against the wall (poor performance on track causing bad headaches) I finally went all through my XXX-T and fixed a few minor things and also took some advice and made a few changes to my suspension setup. I hate changing more than one thing at a time, but I felt it was needed to start with a clean sheet. Our local track is getting very blown out and the Mamba Max 5700 power band was just near impossible to control on this tight challenging course. So with a fresh setup and time for 2 full packs of practice before qualifying began, I was feeling pretty good. I still had to baby it in a few places, but so did everyone else. They will be making a complete new layout at the end of the month. Turn out was light, but we had 3 mod motored electrics and 2 stockers would run with us but be scored separate. Too bad one of the mods was a sponsored driver with a Losi XXX-4 buggy and a serious 1 turn brush motor. In both qualifyers I got hung up on the first lap and was at the tail of the field. But on the first qualifier, I was able to make it all up and get to second before the first lap was over. I ended up two full laps behind the 4wd, but considering how rough loose and technical the course is, the 4wd was a huge advantage. he was able to put down power in places I had to tip toe. Both times he came around me I tried to run with him at it was just impossible in the blown out infield, but I gave up nothing on the fast sections, even acceleration from slow corners and top speed on a near 100 foot straight. Basically he turned 24's and I turned 26's. The second qualifyer was tougher with a start from dead last AGAIN! and I had to work my way one car at a time but I did it back up to second and a full lap fster than Q1, still 2 laps behind the 4WD. 1st out of 4 stadium trucks though. And one of the "rookie stock" trucks was running a Reedy 15 turn. So onto the main. I am lined up second behind the 4WD. He launches hard, but I give up NOTHING. I am 6 feet behind him for most of lap one. He starts to slowly pull away as we go through the tight stuff where my 2wd XXX-T just can't put dow power and he again manages to get a lap on me by the 4 minute mark. Well, that is a big improvement as he was putting 2 laps on me in the 5 minute qualifyers. But we all agreed to a 7 minute main. at 5 minutes and about 30 seconds the 4wd XXX4 is slowing down and he pulls off. I make up my lap and turn 2 more after that for a nice win. And this is the first race of a fresh 8 race series. Funny thing is, with the gearing I am running, I was making over 12 minutes during the practice sessions, and my a-main EP4200 pack is even stronger. I was less than 2 seconds a lap behind him with the power to go at least twice as long. The Mamba Max is seriously efficient. I could gear higher without worrying about run time, but I can't go any faster on this track so it just makes more heat, and when it is 105F in the shade, I'll be nice to the ESC and motor. I can't wait to try the Mamba Max in a Kyosho Lazer ZX. 4WD with the MAmba Max power could be totally wild. My brother is loaning me his chassis to try it in. I will report the results.

GSMnow · #**1264** 09-05-2007, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quest

Thanks for the help

Okay, it is not letting me QUOTE a quote.

With all of the answers you gave, it sure sounds like an open motor wire, OR the driver board in the ESC is dead (doubtful)

With no pinoin gear on the motor, so it has no load at all, pull the trigger a little so you get a flashing green LED. then try to spin the motor shaft with your fingers. Does it try to go? any drag? or just spin free?

If it is just free spin, try unplugging all three motor leads, spin the motor shaft and then hold all three motor bullet touching (yes short the motor leads but not connected to the ESC) and again try to spin the motor, it should have alot more drag this time. If it does that, the motor windings and rotor are functional. To make sure all 3 windings are good, you can try shorting each pair one at a time, but since it is delta wound, even one open winding will not fail this test. I went as far as spinningmy MM5700 motor with a stock motor and measuring the generated AC volts off each coil to make sure they match, they did, that means the windings are all good.

Next thing to try is put a car tail light bulb across each pair of motor wires from the ESC and pull the trigger slowly. The lights should glow in sequence as it tries to start the motor. You could do this one with the motor also. Without the motor, I am not sure how the software will handle it with no back EMF. It SHOULD just keep trying to clock around the windings, same as if the motor was bound up.

If that works as well, then it is the bullet connectors. MINE FAILED, I am using 1.5 deans ultr connectors now. A normal one for the red/black so I can plug in a brush motor, and an extra socket for the white. It has been working flawless since I did that. The bullets are not very good. New out of the box, ponly one of mine was a snug fit, the other two were down right loose.

Cain · #**1265** 09-05-2007, 11:01 AM

The mamba max is a blast in 4wd. Just need to make sure you vent the body appropriately, but its one great setup. I ran mine in an SB V2 Buggy I had previously and had loads of speed and punch.

with 4wd, you really can put down the power. on the blown out tracks, a 4wd 1/10 scale truck would be almost ideal for the 1/10 scale class. Iknow guys who would mount up truck tires on there buggies to get alittle more clearance for the rough.

Quest · #**1266** 09-05-2007, 11:05 AM

GSMnow,
Thanks for the great advice. I am electricaly challenged and your suggestions are great. I will try them as soon as I get home from work. I'll post the results. Thanks again.

Quest · #**1267** 09-05-2007, 11:09 AM

"The mamba max is a blast in 4wd. Just need to make sure you vent the body appropriately, but its one great setup. "

My vents with a fan:

GSMnow · #**1268** 09-05-2007, 03:55 PM

The Lazer ZX seems to have good room around the motor for air flow. I have another 30mm fan I can fit in there too. I don't have a body for it yet. I need to see what will fit. The chassis is not here yet, my brother is sending it to me from MN. I have my older Optima Mid, it is much tighter than the Lazer. The mid also has 32 pitch gears to the rear diff, and a total CRAP slipper clutch. I am afraid to put the Mamba torque into the Optima Mid gearbox. The noise from those worn 32 pitch gears is frightening on just a 27 turn stock motor, let alone when I tried my 15 turn Twister mod I used to race in that beast. The Lazer should be much better on track with more suspension travel, longer wheelbase, and all enclosed belt drive system. I sure hope they don't skip under load.

Monsterbrad · #**1269** 09-05-2007, 06:35 PM

Hey guys new to the brushless scene here and I have a question about lipo and my novak brushless 5.5.
I have a Max Amps 7.4 6000 Lipo and the 5.5R
They are both running about 140 or higher
Is this too hot for the battery???
Novak says 160 is good for the motor or a little higher
????????

Quest · #**1270** 09-05-2007, 11:34 PM

Figured it out. I was over voltage at 14 cells.
Spaz123 said "are you using 12 or 14 cells? After the controller is on and ready to go, is just the yellow LED on or are both the red and green LEDs on? If both Red and Green LEDs are on, you are over voltaging the controller. Try running it off of 1 pack just to see if it works.

When the controller is armed and ready to rock just the yellow LED should be on if everything is ok.

The reason i know this is because my friend just got his controller and had the exact same problem. The give away was that the red and green LEDs were on."
Could some one explain this? I thought the MM could run 14 cells?

Muck · #**1271** 09-06-2007, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monsterbrad

Hey guys new to the brushless scene here and I have a question about lipo and my novak brushless 5.5.
I have a Max Amps 7.4 6000 Lipo and the 5.5R
They are both running about 140 or higher
Is this too hot for the battery???
Novak says 160 is good for the motor or a little higher
????????

140 is too hot for the battery. You should drop a tooth or two on the pinion.

Muck · #**1272** 09-06-2007, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quest

Figured it out. I was over voltage at 14 cells.
Spaz123 said "are you using 12 or 14 cells? After the controller is on and ready to go, is just the yellow LED on or are both the red and green LEDs on? If both Red and Green LEDs are on, you are over voltaging the controller. Try running it off of 1 pack just to see if it works.

When the controller is armed and ready to rock just the yellow LED should be on if everything is ok.

The reason i know this is because my friend just got his controller and had the exact same problem. The give away was that the red and green LEDs were on."
Could some one explain this? I thought the MM could run 14 cells?

Are you disabling the BEC? The BEC can't handle that kind of voltage. You need to run a UBEC or in other words a seperate BEC.

GSMnow · #**1273** 09-06-2007, 02:53 AM

With the BEC in use, the limit is 3S LiPo. Castle does list 12 cell NiXx as okay, but that is almost as much voltage as 4S LiPo. At light load, fresh off the charger, 12 cells could be over 16 volts. With the BEC disabled, several people run it at 4S LiPo and even a few have run 5S LiPo. 4S right off of the charger could be as high as 16.8 volts. 14 very hot fully charged NiMh cells could go over 19 volts OUCH! That is really pushing it.

Quest · #**1274** 09-06-2007, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSMnow

With the BEC in use, the limit is 3S LiPo. Castle does list 12 cell NiXx as okay, but that is almost as much voltage as 4S LiPo. At light load, fresh off the charger, 12 cells could be over 16 volts. With the BEC disabled, several people run it at 4S LiPo and even a few have run 5S LiPo. 4S right off of the charger could be as high as 16.8 volts. 14 very hot fully charged NiMh cells could go over 19 volts OUCH! That is really pushing it.

I am running a UBEC. Apparently Castle has changed the "FET board" in the newer models so that you can't use the higher voltages.

GSMnow · #**1275** 09-07-2007, 10:10 AM

That seems odd. I could see them doing that AFTER the MMonsterM is available, but right now it will just drive more people to the "alternatives". 4S on a Mamba Max seems quite universal in the 1/8 conversions.