Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v4.0 - Page 5

Maverick Racer · #**101** 05-12-2003, 01:07 AM

Yah there would probably be no holes. The chassis would be machined thick enough so that I could have the mill just make the chassis thiner in the spur area, but I might have to cut it out for rock's sake.

I have no reason to make money off of the product. I am not doing it for fame or fortune. I know I can make one that will performe better than any of the other aftermarket chassis I just can make them cheeper if I do more of them. I have yet to run the numbers through Pro-e but I know that with the right lay-up I can make a chassis that will not only be stiffer and stronger, but look cooler.

Anyway. Got any idea on a finish?

The 2nd gen sirio had been out more then a month. I just go in some motor from some customers and just as I was about to get to work on them I noticed that they were changed from all the other sirios that I had done in the past.

David Wert
DWR Motors

KronicRacer · #**102** 05-12-2003, 12:40 PM

i would say go for the carbon woven look. 3.0~3.5mm thick would be great

Rookie Solara · #**103** 05-12-2003, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Maverick Racer

The 2nd gen sirio had been out more then a month. I just go in some motor from some customers and just as I was about to get to work on them I noticed that they were changed from all the other sirios that I had done in the past.

David Wert
DWR Motors

Good to hear the new info, however, you mentioned the 3rd needle will be eliminated on the new gen Sirio....what is the 3rd needle that you are talking about..? The Mid-range needle...?

Thanks a million

Maverick Racer · #**104** 05-12-2003, 02:48 PM

yes the mid range neelde is gone. There is just some button on there that has a spray bar but not adjustable. It looks just like the traxxas 2.5 carb in that respect.

roee · #**105** 05-12-2003, 02:57 PM

Maverick, being the motor guru you are - What kind of engine would you suggest I replace my .15CVRX with?

How's the Rossi Black Pixi?

I don't want to lose bottom end just to get insane speeds, nor do I want to have a pain tuning the motor.

Any particular pipe, too?

Thanks!

Pro3/nmt105 · #**106** 05-12-2003, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
The sirio is a awsome motor.

But there is a second generation of the motor. There are no markings to tell if is the new one except that it has no third needle on the carb. Try to get one of those if you can. They have a crank with a "turbo" scoop and more agressive port timing. They also changed the pinch fit the the older ones have. The new ones have more HP and RPM the older ones have more torque. It's your choice as to what you want or what you LHS has in stock.

Titanium is much heaver than the stock plastic. And the carbon fiber will be lighter than both and stiffer as well. The Hardcore ti chassis is almost twice as heave as the stock ASC chassis.

Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.

Question for all NTC3 drivers
If a company made a carbonfiber chassis for the NTC3 that was stiffer then everything else out there but weighted the same as most of the real light chassis and was priced at $69.99 would you buy it?

I have not made any but I am just seeing if there is enough interest for me to do a batch or two.

Would you rather have a mat finish, just black, or the regular woven look?

Thanks for any input guys

David Wert
DWR Motors

Are the new ones easier to tune? I still havent broken mine in because I have almost no free time except in the summer and I could try to trade it in for the second generation if its easier to tune, I like the fact that the one I have has more torque though...

Btw about the chassi, wouldnt it have bad heat dissipation?

Rookie Solara · #**107** 05-12-2003, 04:47 PM

To be honest, I don't see carbon fiber will work on .12 engine/200mm TC........I have 2 4mm carbon fiber chassis for the 1/10 235mm Serpent IMPACT with .15 RB engine....the carbon fiber works very good......ONLY because the .15 engine does run a lot cooler then .12 engine (around 230 with the Carbon Fiber chassis and 210 with stock chassis)

However, on my Impulse PRO with MT-12....absolutely unacceptable...(toward 300 degree no matter how RICH I turn).....so I am not sure is the engine, my tunning or the chassis, but I switched back to the OEM chassis.....engine back down to 250 range.......

But technology change everyday, it might happened Carbon fiber chassis is the next thing to do.........

puma1824 · #**108** 05-12-2003, 07:43 PM

Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

tamiyajoe · #**109** 05-12-2003, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by puma1824
Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

yea the same thing happened to me. it was some black stuff with the lhs's sticker on it. i dont blame them, there are great over there. wanna help us out?

KronicRacer · #**110** 05-12-2003, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
To be honest, I don't see carbon fiber will work on .12 engine/200mm TC........I have 2 4mm carbon fiber chassis for the 1/10 235mm Serpent IMPACT with .15 RB engine....the carbon fiber works very good......ONLY because the .15 engine does run a lot cooler then .12 engine (around 230 with the Carbon Fiber chassis and 210 with stock chassis)

However, on my Impulse PRO with MT-12....absolutely unacceptable...(toward 300 degree no matter how RICH I turn).....so I am not sure is the engine, my tunning or the chassis, but I switched back to the OEM chassis.....engine back down to 250 range.......

But technology change everyday, it might happened Carbon fiber chassis is the next thing to do.........

it all comes with a price click here like you said with the technology and $$$$ it can happen.

Distro · #**111** 05-12-2003, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by puma1824
Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

Get some thin zap a gap. I think its the pink bottle.

Distro · #**112** 05-12-2003, 11:26 PM

Unless we start using water cooled engines it won't happen. The engines need surface area to dissipate the heat and the chassis provides alot of surface area. Since carbon fibre does not heat up like metal does it will not be the best substitute.

Maverick Racer · #**113** 05-13-2003, 12:24 AM

Roee- I would go with either a Sirio or a Mugen MR-12. Both of them are great motors with plenty of power. For modded motors I am still a little partial to the mugen just because of the longer stroke. The sirio is the only one of .12 race motors to have a short stroke. In the novarossi lineup there are short rod and long rod but the stroke is all the same. The sirio actually has a shorter stroke with a larger bore. It has a shorter piston which limits some of the piston work that I can do to it, but again I'm talking a full moded motor. In stock form they both are great motors. The Rossi is way overpriced and will not give you any more HP then the mugen or sirio. You can get a modded mugen for the price of the rossi and it would blow it's dorrs off.

Pro 3- It has not shown to be any easier to tune, but the stock sirio's are so easy to tune from the start I wouldnt even worry about it. The more torque is a nice benifit of the older motors

Distro & Rookie - Allthough I have no chassis in my hands right now to try I have tried to simulate to my best ability using carbon and phenloic washers to stop the transfer of heat to the chassis. As of now I have not seen any increase in running temp. I am just going to have to prototype one of them and find out. But I am confident that there will be no problem. Carbonfiber will not absorb heat to the extent that alluminum will but it still can be "heat soaked" If possible I am trying to find out if I can get some carbon fiber that has a layer of aluminum inbetween, much like the corelite carbonfiber just with a differnt core material. I dont know how possible it is but, we shall see. For now I will just finish the regular 100% carbonfiber chassis

any more critisizem or ideas are appreciated.

TSR6 · #**114** 05-13-2003, 01:31 AM

The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=368757

jscamry · #**115** 05-13-2003, 01:40 AM

does anyone know where i can find info on the Picco P-15 RR Rear Exhaust, slide carb engine? I am trying to find the specs on this engine, for a friend.

Thanks Jason

waileun · #**116** 05-13-2003, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by powertrip
What do you think of the tuned exhaust from associated??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKN9&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKN4&P=K

If you are running your NTC3 in a very small and technical track, better try other pipes.

KronicRacer · #**117** 05-13-2003, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TSR6
The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=368757

LOL

Rookie Solara · #**118** 05-13-2003, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TSR6
The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=368757

Really.....LMAO

HauntedMyst · #**119** 05-13-2003, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Maverick Racer

Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.

I don't think the K Factory stuff sucks, nor do I see where you get they used the wrong carbon fiber and the wrong cut. Can you explain? It's true they charge an arm and a leg (thank you Trinity!) but it's a very solid platform once built. They did make some interesting choices in their design though such as leaving out a place for the on off switch? What the hell is up with that? They also keyed the brace and radio plate directly into the diff housing and eliminated the braces, which means instead of 6 screws to remove the radio plate, you know have to take half the car apart just to clean it! Nearly everything else they make is well done though.

I'll be running it this weekend for the first time and hopefully, Rookie will be there to test drive it as well and provide feedback.

KronicRacer · #**120** 05-13-2003, 04:43 PM

hello evil custom twin. very nice custom car!! 1 question why those towers? k factory has2 different ones, so why the standard ones? and did you get the t.i.r. ti. drive shaft? or the hard coated aluminum one.

Pro3/nmt105 · #**121** 05-13-2003, 04:48 PM

I dont understand why people put so much aluminum on their ntc3s, I doubt it really keeps it from breaking it just transfers the stress to another part. I personally think the ntc3 looks best with out aluminum parts (except eyecandy washers and stuff). I can see the shocktowers by k factory that have a fix built in though, those would be nice.

Anyone see the new chassi and shock towers by 3 racing? they look pretty sweet and the chassi is a good price.

KronicRacer · #**122** 05-13-2003, 05:19 PM

i like this one better

HauntedMyst · #**123** 05-13-2003, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KronicRacer
hello evil custom twin. very nice custom car!! 1 question why those towers? k factory has2 different ones, so why the standard ones? and did you get the t.i.r. ti. drive shaft? or the hard coated aluminum one.

I got the regular ones because it was part of a package deal I couldn't refuse price wise, but I would definately get the new ones if I were to do it over again. I just put the blue associated shaft in there because the local shop had it.

Future up grades planned:

K Factory
K1241 Aluminum Swing Rack
K1242 Front Anti Roll Bar
K1244 One Way
K1207 NTC3 Alum. R/L Steering / Hub Carriers for the back

Associated:
Carbon Graphite Upgrade Set
Blue Aluminum Shock Caps

Other
2 Fuel Filters
Custom Painted Body
Titanium pillow balls

Any more suggestion appreciated!

Pro3/nmt105, you are in the minority. I think the stock NTC3 and TC3 look so bland. Great cars but neither would win a beauty contest. I think hopping up a car to the extreme is a riot. Unfortunately, its very expensive but when you get done, you have an impressive, outragously expensive monument to carbon fiber and machined metal (which is actually fun in its own way)!

I'm going to drive it a few times to test it to see how much different it is from the stock version, then I will shelve it and get another NTC3 with just the fix and the ASC c/f radio tray with eye candy washers to race.

Drive4fun · #**124** 05-13-2003, 06:52 PM

ok well i got 200$ to spend on my rtr ntc3 i would like some parts stronger than the rtr crap i already snapped the pivot balls broke an arm broke 2 hub carriers lost a screw and a nut etc.. im looking for stronger parts dont know what to go with so need help im getting the 2 speed thats all i know for now so help out tell me there are so many freakn option parts for this car i dont know what to go with my recent car has been an electric hpi and it had not many hop ups so i need help on this guys thankz

Pro3/nmt105 · #**125** 05-13-2003, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Pro3/nmt105, you are in the minority. I think the stock NTC3 and TC3 look so bland. Great cars but neither would win a beauty contest. I think hopping up a car to the extreme is a riot. Unfortunately, its very expensive but when you get done, you have an impressive, outragously expensive monument to carbon fiber and machined metal (which is actually fun in its own way)!

I'm going to drive it a few times to test it to see how much different it is from the stock version, then I will shelve it and get another NTC3 with just the fix and the ASC c/f radio tray with eye candy washers to race.

I didnt mean to insult you or anything, I like small eyecandy pieces like screws, washers shock caps and stuff like that and I also think that the car looks bad without the graphite upperdeck, I just dont like the big pieces... I think Rookie Saloria has the nicest looking car Ive ever seen, he runs aluminum upper arms but they look pretty sweet on his car.