1Need Help with your Maxx , I am a great troubleshooter with T & S maxxes. - Page 11

3115ultima · #**251** 10-18-2004, 09:41 PM

You could try making a tank guard, Ive made tons of parts for my truck, F/R/C skids and just 3 of the things ive made. Go to a local hardware store and buy a piece of aluminum and bend and drill holes to make it all work.Its pretty easy if you think about it.

jocktheglide165 · #**252** 10-19-2004, 12:05 AM

I been reading these post and man you are da man.....replying taking your time etc...

TXTRCR · #**253** 10-19-2004, 07:32 PM

Any body got a Revo yet. I just busted both drive shafts on my TXT-1, i was using the 2.5 tmaxx shafts. I broke them in four places. I was wondering how much beefier the Revo drive shafts were, it would be the ones that connect the diff to the wheel not from the diff to trans. I know there larger in diameter than the 2.5s. I see that there hollow as well but i cant tell from pictures how thick the pipe is. i need something pretty beefy. like 1/8th inch thick or more.

3115ultima · #**254** 10-19-2004, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jocktheglide165

I been reading these post and man you are da man.....replying taking your time etc...

Thanks man,
Its nice to be able to help people, and even having people help me like TXTRCR. I dont even drive my T-Maxx anymore since my engine blew and im spending all my money on my car and motorcycle.

Everyone else
If you really want to be technical,
Trans to Diff.= Driveshaft
Diff to Wheel = Axle
Engine = Fuel Powered
Motor = Electric Powered
and so on as you get it....

3115ultima · #**255** 10-19-2004, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXTRCR

Any body got a Revo yet. I just busted both drive shafts on my TXT-1, i was using the 2.5 tmaxx shafts. I broke them in four places. I was wondering how much beefier the Revo drive shafts were, it would be the ones that connect the diff to the wheel not from the diff to trans. I know there larger in diameter than the 2.5s. I see that there hollow as well but i cant tell from pictures how thick the pipe is. i need something pretty beefy. like 1/8th inch thick or more.

Have you tried steel axles or CVDs?

Figit090 · #**256** 10-20-2004, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3115ultima

Everyone else
If you really want to be technical,
Trans to Diff.= Driveshaft
Diff to Wheel = Axle
Engine = Fuel Powered
Motor = Electric Powered
and so on as you get it....

GOSH its unbelievable how much that needed saying...

to add to it;
This migh be wrong and i'd actually like it to be clarafied, but...

Tire = The RUBBER
Rim = The PLASTIC/aluminum
Wheel = the rim or rim/tire together

did i get that wrong?

my friend thinks it all backwards and it annoys the crap out of me...

3115ultima · #**257** 10-24-2004, 11:41 AM

I dont think you got it wrong, to bad everyone cant see this, so theyd know.

3115ultima · #**258** 11-14-2004, 10:08 PM

Im still here

3115ultima · #**259** 12-05-2004, 10:42 PM

?

Figit090 · #**260** 12-08-2004, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3115ultima

?

HAHA, i got one for ya!! Have you ever expirimented with making the t-maxx wider....using JUST the stock pieces that came with the truck and any tools you wish.... And also what will making the truck 1-2 inches wider do to the steering ability? Speed...strength....breakage...problems???
I read an article on doing this, the guy dremeled out the hex shape in the rim on the out-side, flipped them and made his truck wider (which i think is great...)

Why the heck don't truck makers just start out with as much offset as they can get....that would surely help how a truck handles, and the t-maxx has SO much more width just by flipping the stock rims!? Is it because they want to skimp on servo selection??

AND is there any way to make the truck longer without buying new driveshafts? I've been wondering if there is enough slide in those output shafts to just buy a new chassis and install without any more upgrades... because if i could get my hands on a plate of alluminum and break out a dremel and scroll saw....

reasons i'm asking.... I just reversed my rims, and gained a good 1 and a half - 2 inches in truck width!! and I keep admiring how other trucks are so much longer and I'm not sure if i want a longer truck or not, but it looks like it would be worth looking into... will proline bodies still fit and look good on the extended size chassis? I have an un-painted excursion body i'd like to use...

OK there's my questions.....hope you have fun!!

TMaxxBenny25 · #**261** 12-09-2004, 09:15 PM

I am sorry to say that I have a prob with my T-Maxx 2.5. After I run for a few minutes the engine stalls and is smokes a a little bit and the exhaust crackles! I have a Motor Saver air filter on it and dubro fuel line. The truck gives out plenty of blue smoke all over the RPM band. PLEASE HELP!!!!!! THANKS GOD BLESS!!!!

TMaxxBenny25 · #**262** 12-09-2004, 09:38 PM

by the way i run 20% traxxas fuel. THanks GOD BLESS!!!!!!!!

TXTRCR · #**263** 12-09-2004, 10:11 PM

sounds like an airleak to me, runs rich but still overheats. does it idle smooth and if you hit the throttle and let off will it fall to an idle instantly or will it continue to idle high. have you changed carbs or or recently done a carb rebuild, or changed the cooling head or exhaust manifold. will it restart after it stalls, like instantly. not five minutes later or an hour later but right as it dies if you go try to restart it, will it start and run. do you have a way to check temp on the thing. head temp should be no more than 270 for the 2.5 and 300 seems to be the coldest the .15 will run or at least in my experiance. if its running within range but continues to stall and is easily restarted you might want to have a look at the fuel tank lid or fuel lines. tmaxxes have a habbit of losing prime half way through the tank i have seen it many times and it is normal i guess, i havent found a way to cure it, mine still stalls about half tank even with a new tank and carb and fuel lines.

TMaxxBenny25 · #**264** 12-10-2004, 08:55 PM

idles smooth. I did take my pie off but put it back on. Doesnt restart immedietly about 2-4 minutes after. I did put on new Dubro Fuel line. I dont have a temp checker but i lick my finger and tap it and it sizzles. Thanks God Bless!!!!!

3115ultima · #**265** 12-10-2004, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Figit090

HAHA, i got one for ya!! Have you ever expirimented with making the t-maxx wider....using JUST the stock pieces that came with the truck and any tools you wish.... And also what will making the truck 1-2 inches wider do to the steering ability? Speed...strength....breakage...problems???
I read an article on doing this, the guy dremeled out the hex shape in the rim on the out-side, flipped them and made his truck wider (which i think is great...)

Why the heck don't truck makers just start out with as much offset as they can get....that would surely help how a truck handles, and the t-maxx has SO much more width just by flipping the stock rims!? Is it because they want to skimp on servo selection??

AND is there any way to make the truck longer without buying new driveshafts? I've been wondering if there is enough slide in those output shafts to just buy a new chassis and install without any more upgrades... because if i could get my hands on a plate of alluminum and break out a dremel and scroll saw....

reasons i'm asking.... I just reversed my rims, and gained a good 1 and a half - 2 inches in truck width!! and I keep admiring how other trucks are so much longer and I'm not sure if i want a longer truck or not, but it looks like it would be worth looking into... will proline bodies still fit and look good on the extended size chassis? I have an un-painted excursion body i'd like to use...

OK there's my questions.....hope you have fun!!

Theres Alot of ways to make your truck wider. I got off-set rims and the Pro-line brake disk simulators and thar helped alot. Ive put washers in between the rim and the hex and that helped some but you would have a greater chance at striping the hexes or worse the rims. I think theres a company that sells wider hexes which seems to be the best deal or the proline aluminum ones. Ive seen the wheels flipped around before but I didnt like that idea much because it makes the wheels weaker around the hex (believe me Ive broke 4 rims there)
My guess is the companies dont do the off-set because of some race regulations but I dont really know.
Youll definatly want a strong hi-tork servo for steering no matter what. I got the Metal geared ball bearing hi-tork servo and the only problem I had was with the servo saver (now its a kimbrough)
Now with the drive shaft thing. If you did make it longer and the stock shorty worked it prob. wouldnt last very long especially if you up grade your engine. Ive heard of geting a stock axel (the long ones on the sides) And just cutting it down some to fit perfectly which is prob. the cheapest way to go.
Ive got the XTM .21 conversion and its about 1" longer than stock (all you need!!) . Im still running the original stock body for bashing, ive got a proline silverado for show (not extended) and ive got a Cadillac Escalade EXT (extended version)
For the stock sized bodies I just made new holes in the rear (left the front) and lower the front mount and raised the rear to kinda give it that aggressive tilt and it looks great.

D@m^ I wish I had an engine to run mine, Havent drove any of my r/cs in like 7 or 8 months, I might try and get some pics of my T to show you my show body but the only one I have is this one but its on old pic ive got off-set rims and road rage tires now, If you guys want to see what my time is all tied up in check it out
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/513229/1

TXTRCR · #**266** 12-11-2004, 12:11 AM

usually trouble restarting after the engine has stalled is an indication of a worn piston and sleeve. This was most likely caused by an airleak. either sucking air in through a gasket or o-ring or blowing out air through a gasket or o-ring. What i do with all of my engines, when they are brand new before i crank them for the first time. I disassemble the engine remove the carb, and exhaust manifold, do not pull the needles out of the carb they should be fine. also do not remove the head simply make sure the head bolts are tight. and if you remove the head you must tighten the bolts in a cris cross pattern tighten one side then move directly across from that one and so on in small increments untill its secure. anyway with the carb and exhast manifold removed, take a tube of Black Automotive silicone gasket material and smear a light coat on the gasket surfaces. lightly coat the part of the carb that slides into the motor and lightly coat the part of the manifold that bolts up to the motor or slips over the exhaust port. reassemble the engine and let it dry for 24 hours and then start your breakin proccedure. also when an engine is run at higher rpm for a long period of time the front bearing will begin to leak oil and air maybe getting in or out through the bearing. so the bearing will need replacement. It is so tricky to keep these engines running smoothly there is a fine line between too rich and too lean. running an engine too rich is just as bad as running it too lean. when the engine is brand new the needle settings are set rich and this accelerates wear which mates the piston and sleeve. the needles should be leaned out a bit after breakin has been completed or the engine will continue to wear at a high rate. also running the engine too lean will accelerate wear by not letting enough oil coat the piston and sleeve and the two peices of metal will simply grind each other away to nothing in no time. usually keeping the motor at a good running time will help it run for a good while. i would invest in a temp guage of some kind, they all work well. it will save you so much money in the long run.

TXTRCR · #**267** 12-12-2004, 05:34 PM

Man i talk alot, well here is some more talk.

I just finished the shake down run on the electric tmaxx that i built last night.

I took every thing nitro off the truck, so i was basically left with a rolling truck with a steering servo. i then took the electronics out of my FE Cat hull, that i wrecked and busted up the hull. The electronics include an Astro Flight 212D speed controller no motor limit dual or single no brakes and no reverse up to 16cells, A Cordite 775 SS1 Sealed can 700 motor handles up to 16 cells and makes 1/3 horsepower and turns gobs of RPM, and a 12 cell pack of 3300mah SMC Matched cells. I built a motor mount and drilled out some 32 pitch pinions i had lying around so they would fit the 5mm shaft on the motor. I mounted the battery packs under the chassis 6 on either side and mounted the speed control where the battery pack and on off switch used to be. It tops out at 16.4mph verified by gps, and has what seems to be unlimited torque. You know how when you run a standard electric car up to a wall and continue to gas on it, if it doesnt flip over backwards it will just squat and make a high pitched noise. Well not this dude i ran it up to a wall and got it to squat up against the wall and gassed on it and it lit up all four tires, there wasnt actual smoke or any thing but they were spinning at top rpm. Its not a fast truck by any means but it is perfect for a short track, it goes from 0 to top speed in just a couple of seconds. After a full run the battery packs, motor and speed control were at room temp not even warm. they were warmer when i took them off charge than they were when i finished running the truck so i have room to gear up or down for torque and or speed if i want.

Figit090 · #**268** 12-12-2004, 07:52 PM

pics??

Killer87 · #**269** 12-12-2004, 10:58 PM

probelms with wide offset: Bumpsteer.

no need for aftermarket driveshaft for lengthening chassis... just use a stock axel in stead (longer).

TXTRCR · #**270** 12-12-2004, 11:13 PM

Nope sorry no pics, every thing is still in prototype stage anyway, cable ties and sheet metal. Doesnt look nice now, but when i get some cash ill do every thing up right. Then i'll get some pics of it, i do have a pic of the truck in nitro form with the body on.

3115ultima · #**271** 12-13-2004, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Killer87

no need for aftermarket driveshaft for lengthening chassis... just use a stock axel in stead (longer).

Isnt that what I said?

Figit090 · #**272** 12-13-2004, 07:41 PM

what is a good cheap, QUALITY kit that will lenghten the chassis, but ONLY do that? i don't want a new engine, just maybe some extra length...??

Another question; what are t some pros and cons of making the chassis longer...aside from the ability of many kits to accept .21's which i'm not considering....

Killer87 · #**273** 12-13-2004, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3115ultima

Isnt that what I said?

sorry man, i didnt read your long-winded response....

please frogive me your highness...

TXTRCR · #**274** 12-13-2004, 08:20 PM

Can i get a show of hands please, i want to know if im actually helping people with my long winded responses. So if i helped you with a problem say "I".

3115ultima · #**275** 12-14-2004, 12:47 AM

"I" Im not really there question asker but have read many of your posts and learned stuff. I think we really like to get into the details and actully help people rather than leaving them there to work out the problems

Quote:

Originally Posted by Figit090

what is a good cheap, QUALITY kit that will lenghten the chassis, but ONLY do that? i don't want a new engine, just maybe some extra length...??

Another question; what are t some pros and cons of making the chassis longer...aside from the ability of many kits to accept .21's which i'm not considering....

You can get most .21 conversons and still use your small-block on them. You could also fabricate your own by making a plate for the chassis and skid and lengthing your driveshaft (like how Killer87 said or I said FIRST

) And doing that way you could still use your original length by removing the plates or refabricate the plates to any length you want. One thing that Ive noticed is that with a longer chassis my t will hold the road better and not pull wheelies constently but if I do want to pop one up ive always got the power out of my .21 to do so, even when it shifts to second it pulls it up.