[jeroen]

Welcome Austin

I drive a LM1 but I just play a with the setup sometimes,so i don't know the size.
All I can say is: 2 toe in in the rear is OK front I have zero too,and caster can be alitle negavtive(inside?)just check the tirez for wearing out too quick on hte inside.

The 2 speed makes the car abit faster and pull harder,but don't expect a rocket car.
If you want more speed just buy an bigger clutchbell and a other exhaust.

What tirez are you running? as the rally once don't have alo of grip.


As I was too lazy too post my new 3 speed vid over here(yes I'm ashame for it)
Here you go: http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=29935
just copy paste and fill in rc-pics without the -

[jeroen]

second picture

[evilGearhead]

i want some better off-road shocks for this thing. will ofna front buggy shocks fit?

[Monster-Rally]

Jeroen,

Thank you for the warm welcome.

I will be changing the steering set-up to lay flat (1% toe) and see if that helps with high speed stability.

I have been driving a 4-link 1/8 Monster truck (XTM X-Factor) for about a year now.
I thought it was fast at 35 Mph..But wow..This Landmax is like a hocky-puck on paving.

You are right, the original tires have poor grip. I would like to get a new set soon. (maby a little larger road tire to handle the off-road better).

Your rally is realy nice....a 3 speed trans...
I have a lot to learn from your this forum..

[Blaster]

geoff rodger - welcome to this forum! Hope you enjoy your Landmax. Honestly I don't know if the GT30 (2 speed for LM1) will fit the LM2. As the 2 versions have 2 different chassis I would not assume that it is a direct fit. The chassis of LM1 has a length of 16.25" (412.7mm) and the LM2 has 15.4 (390.5mm) so...


monster rally - welcome to this forum too! The Landmax is really a great car and you certainly will love it.

As for setup, I never worked on it as I do on my buggy. But will agree with Jeroen on his tips. If you want to use the car on asphalt (track, parking lot, etc) you will want to lower the ride height. The tires that I use for dirty asphalt are GTW004 or GT039 . The slick ones have not much grip outside the RC tracks. And for off road, use either the stock one or the GT043 - which is the same as the original - or the GT049 . The 2 speed gives it a better start but not much gain on top speed, if you use the stock gearing that comes with it. Maybe you will want to change the engine latter... As for steering, maybe the Special Servo saver with bearings (IFW105) and the aluminum steering plate GTW022 . Altought they are too expensive and doesn't pay back in steering improvement.

evilGearhead - I am not sure but as far as I know, the Ofna buggy (9.5) can share many parts with the Inferno MP 7.5. And the inferno shares many parts with the Landmax. So.... The shocks might fit.

[l0freq]

just a quickie:
new pics of drift wheels ver2

and our
7th scale project! big brother to our mighty LM's

lee has drawn up those plans of a nissan laurel, 2D into corel draw, and i mocked up a scale size paper model based on the buggy's extended wheelbase (420mm) so thats roughly what the finished car will look like (perhaps a bit more detailed) but 310mm wide and 740mm long! hehe

have already test driven the new extended buggy chassis - drives like a car instead of a spinny spin spin buggy on tarmac, and when you put the power down it drifts like an LM! pics & vids next week, as we start on the body frame rails and metal shell...!!

the LM is retired till it gets its new engine - if Ofna agree to replace my motor for me! :|

[Monster-Rally]

The LandMax-3 I am driving has a breaking problem...

It locks up the back wheels first (really the back right first)
This causes a spin out most of the time...
So in an effort to make a better rally...

Is there a way to balance the braking system?

Rally....Rally...Rally......(I am hooked)

[mook]

allright peeps

im a total newbie to this game, and could use some advice. In four weeks or so i am getting my hands on some cash and have decided to buy a landmax.

I phoned three five models today in the uk. A landmax will set me back £299 for the kit or £350 as a radio deal and £385 'all in'.

The radio is a twin stick futaba job with 3003 servos. Do the 3003's have enough guts (torque) to turn the vehicle etc or do i really- truly- need a hi torq uprated servo for the steering.

Also, i have read all of the other LM thread. it was suggested to strip the chassis and then re-build using threadlock on all parts. would you aggree that should be done?

Truth or myth, the gsr21: people have stated that they have found metal shavings in the block of the gsr21 which are leftovers from machining. Should i gut the gsr21 &, clean and Seal before running, or is the gsr21 good to go from the box.

lastly i am looking for a supplier of medial pro tarmac 11's in the uk.

thats all for now

mook

[jeroen]

monster-rally:

You can balance the front and rear brakes on your car,just adjust the collar thats on your brake shafts.
So that the front will have more break than the rear.

Welcome Mook:

I'f I where you I should order a LM2 in the USA,as here in europe kyosho is kinda pricy.

For steering you will need a stronger servo than a 3003,Hitec does offer some nice servo's speed 625 torque 645 or the digital once 5625 or 5645,these servo's you can buy for around $40 for the non digitals and $55 for the digitals.

The LM2 is a kit,so you have too build it your own,use thread locker on every metal/alu part you want too.

I think it a myth,as i never heard of metal parts in a GS 21 ever.
You can seal the carb and backplate if you feel like doing it.

The only place I know where you can buy tarmacs online is: www.meganitro.com

[mook]

thanks for the welcome and advice. I have checked out towerhobbies and an lm2 scooby do is £219 less shipping. result. But.. tower hobbies no longer sells the two speed transmission. Never mind the kyosho .21 will be powerful enough for a newbie like me.

i have contacted the medial pro website in the US but they never got back to me. I dont fancy handing out my credit card details to a company that cant even reply to a customer query.

Anyway, my thanks once again.

kind regards
Mook

[Madaz]

welcome mook: threefivemodels sell medial pro tarmacII's and also a shop in kent had some when i went there a year or so ago. just phone around. the trick is finding some with 19mm hexs but i would just get some adapters for 17mm (ofna or just get the inferno hexs and nuts)

it wouldnt hurt to seal the carb and backplate when u get it but dont worry too much about metal shavings. id say its unlikely.
Threadlock the grub screws in the driveshaft cups and the steering kingpins and anywhere else u think. (metal to metal parts)

the standard 3003 servos will do the job only just but better to upgrade you will notice it will steer/handle much better. Maybe you could trade in one of the brand new 3003 to knock a bit off the price of a hi torque when u buy the kit. A model shop may give you 10 quid for the 3003. Ive had a hitec 625mg ( it cost me 40 pounds) for a while now and its performed faultlessly.

[Blaster]

Monster-Rally - welcome! Based on Jeroen tips you should have had your breake issue solved by now. Hope you enjoy your LM!

mook - welcome! Your 3003 servos on steering won't do the job the right way. Better get a stronger one as the Hitech suggested by Jeroen / Madaz or a Futaba 9405 or 9402. As for the 2 speed, I dunno where Kyosho still seels it. But I wonder if OFNA Hyper 7 2 speed (OFN19240) or OFN18990 might fit... Also the Kyosho offers the GT-030 2 speed (still available at Tower) to the LM1. I dunno if the gears will fit a LM2. Any clue guys???


BTW... I have a Brand New Kyosho GTW-020 to sell. I bought as a spare to the one installed on my LM2. If you are interested....

[mook]

thanks gents and apologies for the book below

cheers for the tip madaz re the medial pros.If i can stay away from the pub, Im going to buy the two carbon shock towers? from fibrelite and four medial pro tarmac 11's on tuesday. I dont want to race or anything like that, but those tarmac11's on an LM look the business. Also i do want the tyres to last more than five minutes. would i be right in saying that 60 shore 'hard' compound would last longer than say 25 shore 'soft'?

i have read that the standard tuned pipe that comes with the kyosho .21 conspires to make the engine run hot. A bloke said that by replacing the kyosho pipe with another tuned pipe would cause a vast reduction in engine temperature. So, in a few weeks time, i am planing to buy an RB 9886 tuned pipe. alas due to ultra noob status i have a question. Do i need the RB header/manifold as well or would the kyosho header/manifold be ok. Also on full scale cars, some people use exhaust wrap to cover the manifold/ header. By wrapping the header/manfold they are able to reduce engine temps and gain HP. allegedly. Anyone got any input on that.

Reason being: I want to create a 'real' look car. My plan is to use window tint film for the windows on the shell & i will be fitting chromed mesh where the grill is on the front and on the bonnet. ultimately i dont want to put to many holes in the windows as this will affect 'the look'. Speaking of which, How handy is Need for speed underground! I have been fecking around with different paint schemes on the subaru. nice way to spend time.

would a hi torque servo on the brakes make the car stop any better?

Hi blaster. thanks for the help. If the gtw-020 fits an LM2, then i might just be interested, and im sure we could work out a fair price for the two of us. Give me four weeks (got tyres and pipe to buy first) and then we can see what we can do.

Im off to a bad start lol. I have'nt even bought the kit yet, but im about to buy hop ups. oops.

Once again my thanks to all

Mook

[l0freq]

heres a novel. grab a hot cuppa and get comfy.


mook - hello. nice to see you joining the fun, you will be having a blast for a long time with your LM purchase

just to go over what others have mentioned, as an approval - as far as the servos - like madaz says the 3003's only just do the job, when i got my lm we instantly upgraded to hitec 605 series servos on throttle and steer, (having it on throttle only really contributes to better braking), but after i had to revert to 3003's to troubleshoot a problem the 3003's just dont rank at all. when on the ground stationary the 3003 on steering visibly had trouble turning the wheels just from the friction on the ground (ok, when rolling, this would be compensated for, but it will be up to you how responsive you like your steering). anyway ive run 605's for ages then now upgraded to 625s and they are great. stay out of water tho as i have had my servos fail after blasting thru water/driving on wet roads, causing some leaks into my servos and causing a bit of interference... but opening them up to dry them out has helped.

we all know the gs21 is not a great motor. but it will do you for a start. be prepared for a fair bit of arm cramps from pullstarting that sucker (unless you get a starter box) - the tuning on the gs21's are very fickle and no 2 days seem to be the same. be constantly on the watch for amount of exhaust smoke, and come in every so often and check heat sink temps with the water drop test (water should take 2-3 secs to sizzle off at the most, if it vapourises instantly youre way too hot!) to make sure things arent cooking. you might find yourself adjusting the mixture alot, thats what i found anyway. one problem i had was the plastic needle valve becoming loose and 'unscrewing' itself while the motor was running (from vibration??) and this of course throws your tuning out of whack! solution: get some thin hose, or a strong rubber band, and wrap it round the needle, to help hold it in place while youre driving. you will still be able to make adjustments using a small flathead screwdriver, but at least be at ease that the motor isnt getting leaner and leaner while youre driving. but the gs21s run hot all the time and theres not much you can do about it.

so, your idea of 'scale' appearance without too many holes in the car windows, may not help your motor. unless youre running in cold outdoor temps, im not sure if that is the best idea. i understand totally what youre doing, i tried for the same effect on my body, cutting out front grilles and replacing with mesh, side windows etc. it looks fantastic, but from experience you will regret it later on. every cut you make in the body weakens it - holes on the front will start cracking with a few impacts (and you WILL be hitting things!! ) and you will soon find the cracks spreading all up your body.

i would suggest you think about one detailed body for 'show'/static display, and another more functional one that you can bash with and have fun without worrying about ventilation, damage, etc. up to you tho just wanted to mention these things from someone whos done the same thing!

i cant comment on a different pipe contributing to engine temps. but the stock gs21 pipe is probably not the best (although it is strong!) a 3rd party pipe will probably help on performance but be careful, the thinner aluminium pipes you can get are weaker and more prone to damage (the 'exhaust pipe' extention may bend easily, and the pressure nipple fitting may be prone to coming loose). again from experience. since this is your first foray, id suggest keeping it all stock, and just taking it easy. the gs21 also has a 90degree exhaust header and relies on another 90degree rubber elbow coupling to complete the bend to the stock pipe, a replacement pipe will fit on that elbow, but the gs21 (as far as i know) will not accept an aftermarket rear port header.

the 'heat wrap' used on real motors has 2 functions, one to reduce under hood temps (ambient air temp) and to maintain the temp of the exhaust gases - hotter gas = faster movement = more efficient flow for the motor. but dont mistake this temperature control with the main temp of the rest of the motor - this mod will only affect the exhaust velocity. in addition, normal motors are 4 stroke, the gs21 and most rc motors are 2 stroke - so, wrapping the RC header MAY not benefit the flow of the exhaust simply due to the function of the motor.

finally, this whole hobby is a 'bad idea' when it comes to funds and expenditure... but its all for the fun you will have instead@! you'll remember that when you get your LM going and you just hook it thru a huge powerslide

thus endeth the novel.

[l0freq]

i'll follow up with a quick update - heres stage 2 of the '7th scale' drift project me and lee are working on:

7th scale stage 2!

pics at the end are to give scale to the paper model (273cm long) and the good ole LM1 with mint condition wrx shell *smirk* but you can see the size difference compared with the LM!

made the main body frame rails, body shape using stiff foam shaped by hand, based on scaled up vector drawings of the real cars shape. 2 main 'slab' sides, then front/rear built with custom pieces to get a basic shape. aluminium roof cut to scale and bolted on. and a boot, for fun hey there was a ton of space back there.



next on the list - windows, front and rear lexan windshields + ventilation ducts, strengthening all foam connect points and final shaping, body mounting system to chassis (to allow for the heavy! weight + some 'give' in case of impacts), then final metal skinning, 'panelbeating' and painting! stay tuned

[HKmaxx]

Bolt on header for GS 21 and OS 21 motors.

[HKmaxx]

delete double post

[mook]

Salutations to all

way cool stuff there lofreq, and that was the best novel I have read for ages. Thanks for the welcome as well. I was thinking about exhaust wrapping the manifold and tuned pipe. i reckoned that the exhaust wrap would reduce the temperature under the lexan shell. A positive would be cooler, denser air for the airfilter to breathe on and for the cylinder head to cool with. The servo info is a distinct bummer, but hey you dont drive a real car with dodgy steering. Landmax except no substitute. When my re-morgage comes in lol, i am planning to sit down at the computer with some beers and go silly with the credit card. My overall plan is build the LM and run as stock for a while & then slowly add on the hop ups so i can truly appreciate every tuning mod. I hear you there, i am planning in a few months to buy a basher lid, but i am certainly interested in going for the scale look,with things like an inner 'hidden' aerial, functioning lights etc.

interesting pic hkmaxx,am i right in saying that manifolds are universalfitment for all .21's or do you need a specific manifold for specific engines?

I phoned three five models and no joy with the medialpro tarmac11's.meganitro are useless aswell.i Asked for a price forfour wheels and tyres shipped to the uk.They qouted me $15.50 shiped to ireland i think i will have to bite the bullet and go with meganitro.

One more question.Tomorow I will be sending a cheque to hansell composites ltd (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/) for two carbon shocktowers for the landmax1.Does anyone know if these towers are the same for the LM2.

The bits in question are




Best regards

Mook

[Blaster]

l0Freq - Nice tips. Very well explained! Please write more novels... Your 1/7th project looks very interesting! Wanna follow it closely. In fact I wish I had more abilities to do one project myself...

HKmaxx - nice off-road driven LM... Hm... Is this an F-150 version?? What manifold is the one you used??

Mook - Nope! The LM1 and LM2 towers are different. Dunno if they will fit on each other but I doubt, as the bulkheads have different dimensions.

Enjoy your stock LM. And certainly we will see new pics from you with upgrades, very soon.

[HKmaxx]

Mook - round port rear exhaust engines are in the majority so the common headers will fit no problems. Its only the GS .21 and OS .21RG that I have seen that have the odd port setup. There is an adapter available to convert it to round port configuration so you can use the more common headers.



Blaster - Thanks, its a LM2 Mitsu Evo with st tyres - better ground clearance for the rough stuff. The header I got from a LHS in Hong Kong who had a batch made up.

[Blaster]

HKmaxx - nice engine mounts. Where did you got those spacers (between the engine and the engine mount)??

[Jimmy33]

heya!

Im BACK! Bring on all the dust, dirt, rain, snow whatever - my baby is back on the road (well track! well...field!)- armed with a new OS engine, 2 speed transmission and loads of other mods im ready to rock and roll! Yes its been almost a year but who cares!

I have FINALLY painted my Mistsu shell! bright yellow armed with the stadium trucks chrome wheels and tires (i drive off road only!) its ready to go and looks the dogs! Pics will follow as soon as i get of my lazy arse and take them!

Come the hols its time to rip my mates 1/10 tamiay to bits again in a race! hehe he thinks he can beat a landmax....HA! Nothing can beat us!

SO LETS RACE!

[l0freq]

Get Excited@!!!

[HKmaxx]

Blaster - those mounts are from my Supermaxx truck. I run OS engines in both cars. Don't know if it will bolt into the Landmax2. LOL.

[Blaster]

Jimmy33 - welcome back! Pis pics pics.....

HKmaxx - LOL. I am in fact interested on these spacers you used between the engine mount and engine itself. This is similar of what I was looking for to put on my Mad Force. These spacers will attatch onto the Dual Shock and stop the shock scratch (I explaned how it works on MF forum )