[l0freq]

with those stadium wheels and the raised height it looks like a doom machine out to destroy the paris-dakar!

cool man i want those wheels now

[kensung]

Madaz, Thanks For Yr Advice, I Will Look For Some Better Shock.

I Can't Wait Till Weekend To Test The Landmax, I Hv Already Tested It Yesterday(hehehe!). Tested It In A Nearby Sandy Parking Lot. My Landmax Is Quite Unstable As It Spinned In High Speed Corner. Should I Increase My Front Stock Tension? Will Try Out Next Time.

But The Stock Engine Is Quite Above My Expectation, I Am Using 15% Nitro For Breaking In. I Was Running Quite Rich On High And Middle End. The Engine Started Easily And Nothing Wrong With The First 5 Tanks. One Thing I Don't Like Is The Sound Of The Stock Tune Pipe And The L Shape Coupler.

Thanks

Kenneth

[Blaster]

Double posting....

[Blaster]

Jimmy33 - nice looking car!

l0freq - I have 4 new wheels and tyres to sell! What's your price? (I pay the EMS shipping...)

kensung - pics of your car?? The stock engine is a nice mill. Just get one if 1) you are willing for more power or 2) have to replace a worn stock engine (the price of a Kyosho GS .21 is way to high).

[Blaster]

Tyres....

[kensung]

Hi All,

Here is some picture for u guys

[IMG]G:\DCIM\100OLYMP[/IMG]

[obiwan]

Got a quick technical question..

I have the new hyper 8 port all bolted up and she runs fine. Only got 10 tanks thru it so far, But i am having trouble with my reciever i think?? the car has now 3 times screamed off uncontrolled into the distance. I have a failsafe fitted, batteries are new, transmitter is full voltage and servos are brand new also. it just pulls full throttle and goes flat out after i dab the trigger. the last one for around 15 seconds and travelled 100m plus.
until it hit a lump of wood head on at i guess 60/70kph..... oh, it broke nothing at all, just spun the brand new spur gear i fitted with the new clutch bell.

why does the failsafe not kill the throttle servo??? unsure if it still had power to the servos because the battery pack got thrown out of the car.

[Blaster]

obiwan - check if your connections to your receiver are firmly plugged. And check also if nothing metalic is touching your antenna (servo linkage, etc). I had same problem and found out that my "Y" connection was glitching...

have to ask: does it happens everywere or just in a specific place? Might be radio interference also....

[obiwan]

heya. It happened in two different locations.. and all plugs are in tight, made sure when plugging in failsafe. I know what you mean about the metal, but nothing in the way, and to stay connected for 15seconds under full throttle????? strange. and the failsafe didn't work when she ran out of range either.....

It's an AM radio setup, if that makes any difference, used in an industrial area. massive sheds ( metal ) all round.

thnx

[StevePond]

You usually have to set the failsafe. The default setting might tell your servo to go to full throttle instead of applying the brakes. Check the instructions to see what if any set-up is required and I think you'll find the answer to your problem.

The failsafe you have will not work if you lose radio signal - it's only to prevent the loss of control when the receiver battery voltage gets too low.

Only PCM-type FM and other more sophisticated radios can try stop a vehicle when radio signal is lost.

[obiwan]

The failsafe fitted is setup correctly, and works well. it does apply the brakes when radio signal is lost also. I tried that and it works well.... drive off into the distance and when no signal, brakes come on.

[dirtgypsy]

Hi guys, I hope someone here can help. I am looking for the lm2 2spd and tower says it is discontinued. I think I have found one on ebay but the part number listed by the seller is slightly different than the gtw020 listed on tower's and kyosho's web site.

here is a link to the auction:kyosho pc 2 speed

Will this work and is this a fair price??

Thanks for your help. DG

[dirtgypsy]

sorry guys one other question.

which battery pack for the receiver. flat, brick or hump?

thanks again!

[Call Me BOOCAKE]

that is the correct two speed for the LM2...the "V" means it is the one with the threaded clutchbell which allows you to change the gearing (with optional screw-on clutchbell gears as shown here)...i have dealt with jason (jr-rc) before with no problems btw, very nice guy...i would say that is a pretty fair price ($97 shipped) as tower was getting $115 for the plain jane GTW-20...

and a hump back will fit perfectly in the 7.5/LM2 radio box

[l0freq]

perhaps a silly point but... surely if the battery pack flung loose from the car.... or even if the connections broke loose, the failsafe would be useless - there would be nothing to pull the throttle closed. so, faulty connection between your electrics and the battery pack perhaps?

fit a throttle return spring fit a throttle return spring fit a throttle return spring

[Call Me BOOCAKE]

CORRECT...there is no substitute for that 99 cent spring as no failsafe in the world will function with no power

and i have to differ with stevep on the failsafe thing...in my experience any decent failsafe will respond to the LOSS of radio signal (ie: turn the radio off) by kicking into it's failsafe mode as that is what they are designed to do...but it is a different story with conflicting/multiple signals (say two standard AM or FM radios on the same channel) as the failsafe cannot tell which radio is the one it should be responding to...exception to that being PCM systems as steve mentioned, since the "Pulse Code Modulation" (which is sort of a digital "key" modulated into the analog signal being transmitted) lets the receiver know who to listen to...

anyhoo, long and short of it is that a spring is necessary and an electronic failsafe is a luxury..(which is why a spring is a requirement for any kind of sanctioned racing)

[dirtgypsy]

hey boocake, thanks for the help i really appreciate it.

any ideas on where to pick up the optional clutch bells?? I can't seem to find them on towers web site.

[Call Me BOOCAKE]

you're very welcome...

the GTW-20V wasn't/isn't sold here in the US, so tower doesn't carry that clutchbell or the screw-on gears (the downside of buying cool stuff direct from japan that we don't get here)...no biggie if you MUST have the two-speed, but i am bound by law to say that a good engine and a big single speed clutchbell (18-20T or so) is more practical/"cost-effective", especially if you intend to use it as a rally car (dirt and jumps etc)...and as far as speed i dunno why they insist on undergearing them so bad (14/17 bell with both versions of the GTW-20 i believe)...a 16/19 or 17/20 bell would be more like it, even with the stock engine...

[Madaz]

Cool lancer body jimmy33, looks mean!

Kensung try posting the picture again i just saw a filepath.

Obiwan something else to check, make sure your throttle linkage or brake linkages are not catching on anything or are sticking at any point.

If you have a different Xtal set try them as i have had 2 sets of Xtals break (but usually this just caused twitchy servos)

Definalty fit a TRS before you run your car again

[Madaz]

Double post.. doh

[obiwan]

thanks guys, btw, the battery pack came loose on impact with the wood. it was all fine untill it stopped in a hurry. can someone post a pic of a throttle return spring?? i have a spring on my throttle, and if I take my finger off the trigger, it pulls back to zero possie. is that the same.

O.K, i have a 130oz servo, to which there must have been power supplied, because when no power, she goes back to centre possie.. The car ran off under full throttle, aint no spring gonna pull back a 130oz with power supplied to it imo.

On another note, i left everything as it was when it stopped, connected the battery pack back up and because the transmitter was off, the servo pulled back to full brakes. so failsafe works still.

anyhoo, i got a new reciever and c how that goes.

thnx guys..

[l0freq]

correct, if the servo has power, the spring will not be able to pull it closed 'against its will'. the idea is that, in a 'relaxed' state, the spring positively closes the throttle by pulling against the now 'slack' and 'relaxed' servo (which has gone slack and relaxed because power is gone! because batteries have come loose or dislodged!)

for those running a failsafe, and get runaways from interference, do something you wouldnt normally do - turn off your transmitter! if you put your money where the mouth of your failsafe is, the failsafe should stop being confused with the crossed signal, realise it has no communication with the reciever, and apply full (preset) brakes on your ride (until signal is restored). well, assuming you have that sorta failsafe. just speaking from experience. i used to run a failsafe thinking it would be the be all end all but "interference>total power loss" in the real world. plus, it was so picky with the battery voltage that, if the batts went below about 60% power (estimated) it would assume a low voltage situation and brake the car. really annoying. car would operate reliably for much longer without the failsafe. was too picky on voltage.

i have since reverted to a strong TRS and no failsafe and never looked back. cept to look at the curb i just slammed into with full radio control but unlucky drift control. hah 8)

blaster: thank you for the offer of the rims/tyres, they are tempting, but i will be converting my LM to 17mm hubs to take our custom buggy drift wheels so i wont need them!

OH! and remember how my Ofna Force .26 motor sheared its crank! and i posted pics. well i sent the motor to ofna and never heard back from them... i actually forgot all about it while building the 7th scale metal drift project car... until today! came home and heres this package waiting for me. only when i opened it did i realise what it was - my motor is back! without a word or letter or nothing, but it is all reassembled, NEW crank, new conrod, new bearing, new piston, and even new pullstarter as my old one melted on my exhaust header! im so stoked!!!

cant wait to fit this beast into my LM (the mighty wasp .26 is now powering the heavy metal 1/7th drift beast) and add drift wheels and enjoy more troublefree LM action! 3 cheers to Ofna! the LM lives again!!!

[Blaster]

Hi Boocake - nice to have you back! Would you please PM me? I have a question related to RC but has nothing to do with this forum.

[VoodooKiller]

Sorry I hanv't responded on how the rebuild of my car went, i've just been kind of busy.

It took quite of a bit of work, but I finally was able to put the car back together and now it screams! You can look at my past posts if you have no idea what I am talking about and see what I did to my Landmax2.

These are the following parts that I had to purchase to make the engine conversion work:
Engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBZ32&P=ML
Clutch/Clutch nut/baring: stock
Flywhee: (It works fine, but I but another may have been better): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXU247&P=7
Engine mount:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVD24&P=ML
Engine Spacer: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVD25&P=ML
I also had a buy a 4 screws, don't remember them off-hand.

If you search towerhobbies for the engine you will find a pullstart version as well, while it may look like a good idea it will not fit because the exhaust 90deg pipe gets in the way. If you think the aftermarket one will work, it won't, sorry. Just do what I did and spend a little bit more money for a bump box.


I had to grind off part of the stubs on the flywheel and a number of threads on the engine to make it all fit. It was not hard at all with a dremal tool, just make sure if you ever have to do it, do it slowly and carefully. In the end the flywheel is rubbing slightly on the main gear but so little I am not worried about, and it isn't effecting anything, but that is also why I was thinking ther other MP-5 flywheel might work better. However for all I know it may not work at all. The stock exhaust mounts to the engine with the stock 90deg pipe, you do not need the aftermarket one as I was origionally told. I actually have only run it a couple of times past break in but the exhaust may not make an absolute perfect seal on the engine but its close enough that is dosn't matter in my opinion. The car accelerates to full speed far faster than it did before, and top speed has increased a little but is limited by the stock gearing.

I will post pictures later because at the moment I am sitting in an office (where I am having my internship in telecommunications) and having nothing t do...

Have fun with this and I hope this will be bennificial to somone in the future who may need/want to upgrade their engine. On the car I am running two high torque metalgear servos, very helpful, and I also have buggy wheels for off-roading as well. Though to make the buggy wheels fit I kinda mangled the body.

Evan

[obiwan]

The first thing I did when she started to run away was kill the power on the transmitter.... and she kept on going, and going, and going.............