[MT2 owns you]

Originally Posted by buzzsaw46

If your going to buy a clutch bell seriously consider the threaded RS4 3 clutch bell then you can experiment with your split between 1st and 2nd the pinions available for it are 17,18,19 21,22,23. So you could try any where from a 2t split up to a 6t split.

yep, took the words right out of my mind. i have the threaded clutchbell on my tower wishlist and its been there for a while, today i was thinking...i got a powerful engine...so im gonna see if i can gear low...ish...and then watch it take off when it shifts...im going to have at least a 4t-6t split definitly if my tires and engine can handle it. i think they can...but i gotta get my tuning down first so itll be awhile..halfway thru june id say...

[buzzsaw46]

I just found a neat little calc to help figure out shift points and ratios. Not much help with out also having the Dyno chart for the O.S. 18 found here http://www.ebmods.com/pages/dyno_cha...cvr1_stock.htm armed with this info one can then proceed to this calc http://www.tunamaxx.com/test/gear/gear4.html and get an idea of what speeds you want your shift point and how fast you think the engine will rev. I've played with it some and with my current gears (47/18) assuming I can get the engine up to 37k I should go about 57mph.

So lets try out the 15/18 49/46 setup knowing that the power drops off fast over 30k we want the shift to bring us back down around 22k I figure you need to shift at 29000rpm@35mph second would drop the engine back into the power band so it could pull through second with authority and should put top speed at about 55-60mph on road. Now the 17/52 23/46 setup, with this setup I think you want first to pull up to about 32-33k@43-44mph the shift would drop you back to 22k again pulling hard through second and if you could get even 33k out of the engine you would have a top speed of mid to upper 60's.

The only problem with trusting the dyno data is we dont know what pipe/header they where using or how much of an effect each of our setups has on the power curve! and we also dont know how quick it will be what good is going 60+mph if it take half a mile to get there. I guess my experiance with the ratios I have ran in both of my trucks with the O.S. 18 tells me the dyno and gear ratio calc are close to what I'm seeing in real life, And that the 17/52 first will be fine, the unknown is how well the engine can pull the 23/46 second, if I had to guess I would say it would pull at least 32-33k in second onroad.

Sorry for the long post but I really get off on tweaking like this

[MT2 owns you]

i dont mind the longs post most of the time. yours was easy to read, and helpful too. anyway...hmm...23/46 is pretty high...i dont have a whole lotta room...hmm...right now im thinking for first gear...something like 14/49 or 15/49...for secong...18/52 no..18/53...or 18/52...or 20/43 or 20/44....smaller pinion+bigger spur=better accel. and lower top speed right?...man...im gonna have to think on this...then again thats what experimenting is for...for my first setup ill try 15/49 and 18/52 and go from there i guess...

oh, that equation you showed me...is that similar to this one- pi * D * rpm * 5280/63360 = mph? i think thats the right one...my dad showed it to me and im pretty sure that was it.

edit-i got something with the gear ratios wrong and i know it...i THINK it should be more like 15/52 and 18/49...i think...

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally Posted by buzzsaw46

Did you get the slide or rotary carb O.S. 18? Is the 18 even broke in yet? I see you just bought it yesterday. You should be able to use the MT 2 gears if you use the spacer blocks that came with your engine. Also what are you using for a header and pipe that will make a big differance as well.

i got the rotary carb,side exhaust .18.im running the THS pipe on it.the engine is broken in.

[buzzsaw46]

Originally Posted by ritchies rc10gt

i got the rotary carb,side exhaust .18.im running the THS pipe on it.the engine is broken in.

That wierd I have the slide carb with a HSNJ big tube header and an ofna 1/8scale buggy pipe and the thing is a rocket!! I'm also running a slide carb on my T-maxx with the CV-RX and I just bought an extended chassis to keep the front end down!! The Maxx .18 has a HSNJ G2 big tube header and a parris pipe.

Love my engines they are both brutes!!!

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Well, I got my MT2 engine broken in over the weekend. It was really fun... I think I am up to 7 or 8 tanks through it so far. I have been putting a drop of the after run oil in the carb after I am finished for the day, but I haven't put it into the block yet.

Next weekend I will be installing the Futuba fail safe unit I got, and also figure out how to charge some of my batteries... When I went to the LHS for batteries, I got 8 NiCad AA's for the radio, and a 5 cell hump pack for the truck. When I got the truck, I got a rechargable battery for the rotostart, and a battery charger. The charger was *supposed* to come with an adapter so that I could charge the 5 cell hump pack with it as well, but it didn't. Also, with the radio, mine has the plug in the back of it for an AC adapter, and I was going to get one of those as well... the LHS gave me an item that plugs into the radio AC port, and just has a Pos and Neg wire hanging off of it. The charger I have can charge at 1, 2, or 3 amps, and has another switch for the number of cells being charged. I am sure I can manage to charge the hump pack if I can get the adapter. The problem is the 8 NiCad AA's... I have NO IDEA what setting to use to charge them.

I got some more questions for you guys... (sorry)...

1. Cleaning - How often do you guys clean your trucks. What is the best way to get it clean (what products are good?). Last night, I took the body off and got as must dust and junk off of it as I could with a few paper towels. Should I expect to take it totally apart when cleaning? What is best to use to clean the heat sink before removing the glow plug?

2. Air Filter - How often to air filters need to be replaced and/or cleaned? I think I read somewhere that you wash them with soap and water, then put them in a zip-loc bag with a few drops of air filter oil for a day or so. If this is correct, how many times can a filter be washed before it should be replaced?

3. Tuning - I tuned the engine per the instruction manual, but I cannot seem to find the sweet spot were the car doesn't move at idle, and the brakes are responsive at speed.... It seems that either the car moves at idle and stops ok, or sits at idle and doesn't stop very good.


Do you guys think I should replace the stock throttle servo with my HiTec 925?

[doesgo]

1) Only when absolutely necessary, which means: when I pull it apart to repair something. It's a good idea to clean it regularly, but I just don't have the time. Do it as often as time allows.

2) That's based on conditions rather than time or tanks of fuel or anything. When it's dirty, clean it. I like white filters with blue oil myself, that way I know if I can't see much blue anymore thanks to the dirt, it's time to clean it. Just be very carefuly when removing the element so you don't let any dirt drop into the carb. The cleaning method you suggested is good, but after washing it squeeze it dry with a paper towel and let it air dry for a few hours if you can. Once it's dry put it in a bag with some air filter oil and squeeze the oil into the filter so it's evenly covered. Then remove the filter and blot it "dry" again so it's not totally loaded up with oil. Replace the element when it's torn or disintegrating, but it should last for quite some time with regular maintenance.

3) You can adjust your idle speed with a screw on the carb, that might help. Otherwise you can probably adjust the linkage so it works better. I'm not experienced with the MT2 to know the adjustability of the throttle/brake linkage, however.

Replacing a stock throttle/brake servo with a faster and stronger one is definitely a nice thing to do! It'll probably help your braking situation a lot, actually, and give a faster transition speed. Better servos should be near the top of most peoples hop-up lists.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

thanks for all the info... the HiTec servo was for my old HPI Rush that I was rebuilding... (full speed into a 9 inch tall cement curb.... it was messed up) all I got was a new chassis, engine plate and the servo... then I decieded that the cost would be comparable to just buy a new RTR, and i would get to run it sooner....


As far as your answer to Question 1, what do you clean yours with... I had found a "favorite cleaner" thread in one of the forums, and it seemed that alot of people use de-natured alcohol (no idea what it is.. rubbing alcolhol maybe??) and compressed air. Would a can of compressed air do the trick you think?

[doesgo]

I've used denatured alcohol and it works well, but you can't get the hard blast of of out of a squirt bottle like you can an aerosol can. Therefore I usually use electric motor cleaner. It's more expensive but you don't need as much because it's much more highly pressurized. They make "nitro car cleaner" which does the same thing but the solvent is stronger and seems a bit too strong for some things. The electric motor cleaner does a nice job and isn't quite as harsh.

Denatured alcohol is not the same as rubbing alcohol, I don't believe. You can pick up a gallon of denatured at hardware stores and home improvement stores (like Home Depot) usually for under $10. Then buy a squirt bottle with an adjustable nozzle and you're set. Again, not as good as the aerosols, but it works.

Compressed air cans work, but they're expensive.

The deal is the alcohol looses the dirt and grime and the compressed air blows it off. The aerosol motor spray and nitro blast stuff have both in one package: high-pressure solvent. Both work well, one is cheaper, one is easier.

[Combatcm]

I have a 925 in my 1/8 scale buggy and one in my MT2. It should be enough, I use both on 4.8v now.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

sweet, thanks guys... now all i have to do is figure out how to charge my radio NiCad's and 5 cell hump pack on my charger! (and clean the truck)

[MT2 owns you]

if you still need help with the brakes...maybe i can help...first adjust the brake link by tuning the screw at the end. that way ya dont mess up the throlttl..second..the screws holding on the brakes..ive found it helps to adjust those too..mine are a liittle loose (about 1/2 a mm out from the stop point...is any fo this making sense to you? not to me it isnt..)

yea..lotta typos..i dont fell like fixing them righ tnow..

[Combatcm]

The brake link may bind on the throttle arm if extended too far. To make sure this doesn't happen, make the throttle linkage with the ball cup as short as you can make it, twist the ball cup all the way. My car wouldn't brake at all before I found that out. Also, make sure you don't screw the throttle/brake horn screw in all the way, the two arms on the horn were made to move independently and might bind if tightened down.

[MT2 owns you]

well then..about time i start getting aluminumn isnt it? yes. it is. so...i know of 3 companies that make aluminum..i think they all do anyway...they are GPM, New Era, and "hot racing" (anybody heard of them??). GPM ive heard kinda...sucks...new era ive heard is good, but not great..good doesnt cut it for me..and ive NEVER heard of hot raciing..so i dontknow what to think..i saw theiir stuff on hobbyetc.com or .net..somethihng liket hat..i found that link on the hpi site..( excuse my spelling, it sucks today) (more so than other days...today doesnt seem to be turning out very well.....)so...with that said...what do you think of those 3 companies and are there any other good companies like powerline that make stuff for the mt2? i dont think powerline does though since their site doesnt have mt2 stuff yet..i wonder when they will...they are getting a little behind and look slike they arent anymore..i doubt it but still..i hope theyre still makingn stuf..

[Combatcm]

The stuff new era has is good enough. As long as you don't go overboard and get alu arms and stuff. Bulkheads may be alright. I'm just going to stick with hubs and that's it.

[MT2 owns you]

yea..what im aiming for is ALL ALUMINUM except[B]arms and bumper. everything else though=aluminum

[Jeepcherxj95]

Hey guys! I have a few questions. I just purchased the New Era .21 conversion kit. As I await its arrival, I would like to know what I should be prepared for. So far the truck has MIP cvds front and rear, aluminum front and rear shock towers, center diff mounts, and aluminum front and rear a-arms, ball bearing steering, alum front knuckles and rear knuckles. Um alot of aluminum.... I will be putting a .21 Hyper 8-port in it. What other mods should I do? I want to do the 2-speed setup but im not sure if it will hold up to the .21 power. Anyone here with expierience with this conversion? thanks guys!!
~Joe~

P.s. This truck will be mostly used for on-road.... some mild jumping too...
Sorry Combat if I have too much aluminum

[mamito]

hello everybody...........
I'am from Turkey....and ı want to buy mt2 18ss....is This unit works with mt2 18ss....http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFET0&P=M ı'am reading this forum now.....
ı am sorry for my english....

[Combatcm]

I think the rotostart would work with it, as its listed under the parts list as an optional part.
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I would not get the 2 speed, or any 2 speed for any car. It just adds more complicated driveline crap. I've heard in person and in forums that it strips the gears. It's a very expensice experiment if you decide to try it out.
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Grab some of these washer to adjust the gear mesh. You are almost required to do this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEA8&P=7

Put it behind the small bevel pinion. On the .18SS, its a really tight fit, you may need to grind away the back of the cup joint to allow more wiggle room to put the shim in. It's very complicated to explain, maybe I'll get a writeup on it.
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I would also reccomend putting fuel tubing under the pipe screw, so that the pipe is higher off the chassis. Mine had a mark on the chassis.
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To seal the diffs, you will need o-rings,
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXJ57&P=Z

Also silicone sealant or gasket compound. I have dealt with gaskets and silicone sealant, but never gasket compound. It's obvious that 4 o-rings are needed per diff, and your choice of diff oil. I used 10,000 weight because it's all I had. But I would recommend 30,000 front and rear, or if track performance is in mind, 30,000 front and 10,000 rear. 1/8 scale buggies use larger diffs and diff gears, so the force on them is greater. 30,000 might seem a lot, but in these small diffs, it's weaker. Though, I can't say much about higher diff weights, I have no experiance with them. After you put the 4 rings in, assemble the diff and put some sealant around the large metal bevel gear where it seals the diff.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I will probably clean my truck on Saturday, since it is my day off. When I take off my air filter to clean it, what should I put over the opening in the carb to keep dust and junk out of it?? Does anyone know if someone makes a little cap or anything for the carb to use during maintenance?

Once I get the truck cleaned, I am not going to run it until I get the brakes and throttle just right.... and also get the Futaba failsafe installed.


jeepcherxj95 - elaborate.... what is ball bearing steering? I know that the MT2 uses bellcrank...

[Jeepcherxj95]

well, the bellcranks are aluminum and there are ball bearings inside. It is a very smooth setup and is strong too.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Do you have any pics of the aluminum bell cranks, or a link for a place to purchase?

[MT2 owns you]

heres a link for it. im pretty sure itll fi the mt2 but not positive. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ55&P=7

[Jetskiboy77]

Originally Posted by Jeepcherxj95

Hey guys! I have a few questions. I just purchased the New Era .21 conversion kit. As I await its arrival, I would like to know what I should be prepared for. So far the truck has MIP cvds front and rear, aluminum front and rear shock towers, center diff mounts, and aluminum front and rear a-arms, ball bearing steering, alum front knuckles and rear knuckles. Um alot of aluminum.... I will be putting a .21 Hyper 8-port in it. What other mods should I do? I want to do the 2-speed setup but im not sure if it will hold up to the .21 power. Anyone here with expierience with this conversion? thanks guys!!
~Joe~

P.s. This truck will be mostly used for on-road.... some mild jumping too...
Sorry Combat if I have too much aluminum

I used those mounts from New Era and put in a .21 Hyper 8 Port into my NMT. I also put in the 2 speed like you want to do. If you want to see pics check out the NMT and NMT Racer thread and look at page 60-61 for pics of my truck. The onyl gears ive ever stripped was a spur gear that I didnt mesh right. Completly my fault, otherwise the big engine hasnt caused any problems for me. Any other ?s just ask.

[Jeepcherxj95]

Originally Posted by MT2 owns you

heres a link for it. im pretty sure itll fi the mt2 but not positive. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ55&P=7

Thats the one! I tried to post pics but they are too big.... any ideas?