[KansasCajun]

Originally Posted by Keith-OH

Here is on more video of racing.


http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44770

Good lord man.. that race was a truggy festival. LOL. But that is what I call a monster truck track though. Nice and big. I wish the video had more of the LSP though, it wasn't on the LSP all that much.

Ya know.. watching all this video is making me want to go outside and run mine. Winter sucks.

[Keegy]

i wish someone had some Quicktime LSP videos...
ARGH!!!!
mine should be here anyday now... but its cold outside and probably wont be able to break it in till spring... any suggestions? if its gets to around 50 something degrees is that too cold to break her in?

[xxxkat]

I broke mine in and it was colder than that..runs great.

[winning edge designs]

Keith, sweet, you found it on S-grid, persistance pays off, .

That's my truck at the very beginning and at the end during a fuel stop and final lap of the video........I sure wish I would have started on the same lap, but missed the first two because I broke the front plate in the warm-up.....Oh well, next race, ......Jim

[Monsterbrad]

this truck rules!

[xxxkat]

That has been my opinion as well..

[Monsterbrad]

Every time I look at this truck sitting on the stand I am glad that I bought it.
All the aluminum is just awesome!!!!!
Looks sweet

[Keegy]

i had this Kyosho Ultima upgraded to get that LSP vibe... but my LSP should be here by Sat or Mon...is there mail on New Years Day? here s a pic of the Ultima...i had someone custom machine the parts... nice! its something nice to toy w when i suppose i have to waut for new parts when i break stuff on the LSP...

[Keegy]

couldnt get the pics to upload sorry... well it has the machined billet aluminum arms front and rear and so forth...

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, the HB LSP has proven to be very durable after tweaking a few things. Cruise thru the thread and you'll see them all posted.....If you can't find them we will gladly post the tips again......Jim

[Keegy]

Originally Posted by winning edge designs

Keegy, the HB LSP has proven to be very durable after tweaking a few things. Cruise thru the thread and you'll see them all posted.....If you can't find them we will gladly post the tips again......Jim

yes could you post the tips again! thanks alot

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, ok, here goes......

Biggest thing is adding the included droop, or stop screws in the arms. Use loctite and be sure to tighten them enough to take the load off the shocks. Or you'll pop the shock ends off regularly.

Second, add another rack bar, or centerlink(aluminum between the bellcranks), so there are two stacked on each other, using 5 or 6mm longer bolts to do so. Otherwise you will eventually bend the center rack.

Third, heavier rear shock oil, this helps keep the truck from bottoming and jumping nose down over bigger jumps. I like 50wt TeamLosi oil in front and 60wt TeamLosi in back.

Fourth, I have doubled my front hinge pin plate. This requires a modified rear front suspension mount to use a set screw to lock the pins in place, since an E clip no longer fits after this mod. File a flat onto the hing pin and the set screw will bite very well. Use a 3mm tap and the proper size drill available at any good hardware stores.

Fifth, I added a spacer(stacked washers) to the rear brace, where there is a gap. It is in the case, or tower area, because it can't be properly tightened with a space in the material and a long bolt passing thru everything.

Sixth and final tip, I mounted our Monster Illuzion body, which fits way better and doesn't look like a 10th scale on the truck! see www.jconcepts.net

Hope this helps.......Jim, Winning Edge Designs, J Concepts

[CRSMP5]

6th add 1/4" fuel tubing to the front shocks as a bump stop, or mod the diff outdrives, or mgt axels to prevent breakign the cross pin due to cup bind on the diff

7th center diff oil change, stock stuff to thin, rear tires seem to unload power to the front tires, pay attention to how th tires are ballooning..

note on the 4th, you can use the stock hingpins if you do as i did reverse the pins so the mushroom head is on the bell crank side, eclip is on the front crossbrace, (also makes it much easier to change out the front diff and rear diff if set up with the eclips easy to get too, its a few pages back with photos,) the bumper will also need a slight trim to clear the extra tooth, but 2 shims between the doubled up front arm brace on the screws keeps it all good..

add on to 5th also, th eplastic Ls where it goes to the chassis need tightened up also, mine were not tight, mine also lacked loctite..

[Keegy]

thanks you both...
can i see pics of everyones LSPs?

[winning edge designs]

crsmp5, you have a problem with the axle pins bottoming in the outdrive cups? Mine are fine, in fact they have almost an 1/8th inch gap on full compression? Maybe they have updated that?

7 is a good one that I did not mention, I used 30k in the center diff and 2000 in the rear to add acceleration....Thanks, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Here is a pic of mine....if this works, ..... ....Jim, J Concepts, Winning Edge Designs

[CRSMP5]

well if it is updated, then the factory must have added fuel tubing to the shock shafts.. take a look for me as the 1st version the cvd locks up in the diff outdrive under full compression... or they made the cvd shorter.. but yes original ones have a bottoming issue.. you can ask robert next time you talk to him as his is like mine.. i cut my diff outdrives to eliminate the issue

id liek to hear that they solved this issue as it was the 2nd dumbest design flaw, 1st being the rear brace at the bulk..

this thread is full of my photos..

what body is that? does it cover the bumpers or you remove them?

[xxxkat]

It does look like he removed most of the bumper.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, i'll look into the possiblity of an update....

The bumpers were removed from my truck for the weight savings. Alot of guys here are using the lightning buggy front bumper. Our Illuzion body does a much better job of fitting the truck, imo, with or without the bumpers intact, since I tried it both ways, no pics with bumper though..............Jim

[Keegy]

it looks great! anyone else has any pics of their LSP besides CRSMP5 and Jim?
OH quick painting question...i've always painted the lexan body from the inside of course... but i was looking to do some parts on the top of the hood of the lexan body with a matte black as the polycarb paint seems to dry flat on the inside... not alot..will it chip real easy? is it an all out bad idea? have any of you painted an entire body from the outside with good or bad results?

[gcobra16]

I have been watching this forum since it first started. I am now running the Wasp 28 with Jammer Pipe good luck so far. This is the big Croudpleazer body (LST,MGT). I will post a pict of the upgrade I did with T-Maxx Titanium tie rods to stiffen the chasis. Also is it true that the LSP pro has 3.5 mm shock shafts but are threaded for 3 mm shock ends?

[Monsterbrad]

Sweet looking rides guys!!!!!

[CRSMP5]

shock end question is correct.. they are 3mm ends but 3.5mm shaft, this step in the shaft is also the weak link as thats where my lp2 buggy breaks shafts.. rember argument a few pages ago over this discussion of racers edge aluminum shock ends... that guy is major wrong

me ive painted bodies on the outside, make sure to use waterbased paint, it drys flat/semi gloss, im usign createx, but parma is same stuff just alot more expensive (1-3$), both broncos bodies i have on my lsp the roll bars are painted from the outside and the black hood section on the silver/purple one is also from the outside..

ohh also, if you plan to paint it from the outside.. have some fun 1st, use some brown, copper, silver, chrome on the inside, then paint the outside, if the paint scratches/gets damaged it will look as if in real accedent and paint is damaged yes ive done that too..

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, I have painted alot of bodies from the outside for details, like lights, rollbar, bed covers, etc. anything you want to look flat in color. I use only Pactra paints, since they are the most durable and won't wash off if they get wet, etc. Some use Parma, etc. with good success though, but usually back it with pactra or similar for durabilty....kind if defeats the purpose of a water base if you use both typs, imo.

As far as shock ends go(not trying to fire it up, but...) I ran Racers Edge ends on my Revo, but Steve Slayden and the Traxxas engineer with him said it would cause broken shock ends......never broke though, but makes sense, since there is no Flex, just like our aluminum arms.......Jim

[CRSMP5]

no im talking about the argument on the 3.5mm vs the 3mm ends.. order 40$ worth and the 3.5mm no fit wanna talk about mad LHS owner...

have you ever tried createx? ive found that if i do not add any water, shoot at 60psi, and let it dry for a min of 2 days, in the summer i set body in trunk of car for 2 days which works even better (bakes the paint), that the paint is more durable then pactrica.. and to wash it, never been a issue with parma or createx if it sets for a few days to dry.. now if i set it in a bucket of hot soapy water for a few days i can get the paint back off, but it takes work to do it.. i tend to use a wet washcloth or babywipe to clean the bodies..