Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR) - Page 15

winning edge designs · #**351** 01-01-2005, 07:23 PM

Ah, I see......Couldn't a mugen or kyosho shaft work in the HB shocks using a 3.5mm end?

Well, as far as createx, unfortunatly I never have that kind of time. In fact i've frequently had to paint bodies in one night for a racer to run the next day.....This is with them getting me the body at 5pm that afternoon, LOL.....Sure gets expensive though!

.

I have seen bodies painted by others locally who use water base and i've seen and heard horror stories....I once saw a guy who washed out his body with simple green and the material washed off the lexan, apparently it hadn't been backed at all.

I guess like anything once you get a good system in place and are used to it, then it will treat you right...........I used to hate liquid mask, now I use it almost exclusively, LOL............Jim

Keith-OH · #**352** 01-01-2005, 08:25 PM

I am getting ready to place a order for more stuff so I can set it up right when it gets here. Can you tell me if this is good stuff to get?

For my center diff. Good stuff?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFTX7&P=7

Back up glow starter. Is there a better one?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXME72&P=ML

shock oils. How much do i need per shock?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMZ16&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMZ17&P=7

I need a good loctite to hold screws in place. Does it really matter what one I get?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...L=++&search=Go

front hinge pin plate: can I buy this online? My LHS is about 1 hour away. If so where at?

Air filter oil
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDDN4&P=ML

Thanks for the help guys,

Keith

winning edge designs · #**353** 01-01-2005, 09:09 PM

Same center diff fluid i'm using, so it must be good,

.

I'd prefer a glow ignitor with a meter, so you can see it's state of charge, as well as glow plug condition(open/bad or not).

I use TeamLosi shock oil ,but you won't find that at Tower, only a Horizon dealer, the A/E will work well also.

I'd just buy the loctite at the local auto parts....same stuff, much less money, or more loctite for the same price. By the way, Loctite is a brand, thread lock is the material,

.

I got my Front plate from RCI Hobbies....I'll try and find the link.

That is good filter oil.....Jim

CRSMP5 · #**354** 01-01-2005, 09:18 PM

look on tower.. they probally have the plate.. else atomic motorsports..

yea im also bad for the buy night before then use next day bodies...

yep kyosho/mugen/ofna 3.5mm fit.. just if i wanted to do that i could get bunches of plastic ends for less..

jut hb ends i have yet to find anyone with..

Monsterbrad · #**355** 01-01-2005, 10:05 PM

Anybody know where I can get the steering center link to make that stronger.
I have not bent it yet but I am sure this will happen

Keegy · #**356** 01-01-2005, 10:17 PM

thanks for the painting tips!

gcobra16 · #**357** 01-02-2005, 12:59 AM

Thanks for clearing up the shock shaft issue. I think I will get alum. 3 mm. here is the pict of my chasis braces. They are the Proline Titanium ones for a T-Maxx. Perfect fit. I was surprized by the amount of flex in the LSP chasis. Most of the flex was were the clutch bell met the spur gear. These brases eliminated most all of the flex.

Keegy · #**358** 01-02-2005, 01:06 AM

what engine are you running in that? also what kind of air filter is that? i need a good upgraded engine but i am by no means a super tuning guru of any sorts...something thats powerful as hell but super easy to tune and install...also want to keep the rotostart happening...

gcobra16 · #**359** 01-02-2005, 01:33 AM

This is the Wasp 28 with jammin pipe. The air filter is a Motor Saver. If you want easy tuning (this is just my opinion) I would look at an OS. I only have 7 tanks through this motor and now we have about 6" of snow. So far as I can tell this thing is going to rock. I am race director at our local track wich had 40 entries at our last race in the fall mostly MT. I won most of the big block races with a built Savage SS. With my new LSP it's going to be a cake walk.Selah R/C Raceway Here is a pict. from the other side.

CRSMP5 · #**360** 01-02-2005, 01:55 AM

id say mach 26 or the sport werks 26, you will have to do a back plate mod to reuse roto start, but on savage-central there is a parts list in the engine section index sticky...

winning edge designs · #**361** 01-02-2005, 11:09 AM

Sweet truck....I have been working on a similar chassis brace set-up, nice job.....Jim

Keegy · #**362** 01-02-2005, 11:59 AM

hi gcobra-
i poked around the web for the chassis brace and the TMaxx ones dont seem to be the same shape... did you find the chassis flex a big issue? would you recommend the upgrade? i couldnt fint the titanium ones by ProLine...where did you find them?
thanks!

gcobra16 · #**363** 01-02-2005, 02:01 PM

These are the long tie rods that come in the Pro-Line A arm kit for the T-Maxx. I believe Lunsford supplies the tie rods for that kit. As I mentioned earier I was concerned with the flex. If you hold your truck by both bumpers and try to bend it in half you will see what I am talking about. It seems to me that this could have a negative effect on the clutch bell spur gear mesh.

gcobra16 · #**364** 01-02-2005, 02:26 PM

I definetly agree with CRSMP5. The Mach 26 is real easy to tune, makes good power, and runs cool with stock head. That is the motor I raced last year. In fact I would of used it in my LSP but with center dif. configuration I believe RPMs are a plus and the Wasp will rev over 42,000.

Monsterbrad · #**365** 01-02-2005, 07:27 PM

I to am a fan of the Mach 26
its an awesome engine and its cheap and holds a tune very well.
I bought a new one and I am rebuilding my existing one for under 50 bucks.
I like the tie rod mod.
Do you have any part #'s for those rods?????
I would like to do that cause the chassis does flex a little to much which I have noticed with all flat chassis trucks and cars.

gcobra16 · #**366** 01-02-2005, 07:38 PM

Here is a link for Titanium Tie Rods. Lundsford Tie Rods

Monsterbrad · #**367** 01-02-2005, 08:34 PM

Thanks
what did you use for the hardware???
rod ends and all that???

xxxkat · #**368** 01-02-2005, 08:56 PM

Cobra are you using the stock servo?? Does anyone know the numbers of the stock servo..speed,torque.

gcobra16 · #**369** 01-02-2005, 09:47 PM

Monsterbrad I acctually used Savage shock ends. xxxkat your correct I am using the stock steering servo. I have ordered the new titanium Hi-Tec servo, and will move the hot bodies steering servo to the throttle/brake. I read that these Hot Bodies servos are the same that come on a Savage RTR. I have built a couple of T-Maxxes, and a Savage SS so my tool box has lots of parts for both, thats how I came up whith the chasis braces. I am machining front/front, and front/rear hinge pin braces (thicker than stock). I will send picts. when complete. I wish Hot Bodies would do it to save me the trouble.

Keith-OH · #**370** 01-03-2005, 12:47 AM

Would these tires and rims be a good combo for my truck?

Pro-Line 40 Series Mambo Wheel 2.5 Maxx/Savage
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFSM6&P=ML

Pro-Line Bow Tie 40 Tires M2 (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFNF9&P=ML

Keegy · #**371** 01-03-2005, 02:57 AM

as i heard from the rep at Hot Bodies, if you use a 40 series then you have to upgrade that steering servo...
i personally went for the IMEX pin dawgs and a back up set of regular TMaxx bowties using RC Raven machined aluminum lightweight 5 hole rims...
A question for who knows:
can u use the RCScrews set for the Savage for this LSP?
does the LSP share any of the same parts as the Savage? like the aluminum fiff cup upgrade???
thanx!

Keegy · #**372** 01-03-2005, 03:00 AM

hi GCobra-
will that motor saver filter fit on the stock LSP engines carb? i'm gonna run that stock for a little while till funds grow...
cheers.
keegy
PS. nice starter box!

CRSMP5 · #**373** 01-03-2005, 09:29 AM

yes the motor saver fits, you will have to reuse th eoriginal 90* elbow unless you get one thats got that elbow

i would not change the diffcup unless your going for bling, ive changed alot of savages to lightning diffcups cause they are better then stock ones, cost 1/4 of aluminum and ill never have to worry that the diff pins will wear into said diffcup filling the diff with metal.

mambo wheels suck, they warp/bend/break, heck all the 14mm hex 40 series wheels do (or run the lovely spinner nuts at 6$ each has to be ordered direct thru proline), either go for the new 23mm hexes, or the sc adapters for a savage and outback welds.. no matter what you will require 24-40$ in adaprets/hexes/lugs

xxxkat · #**374** 01-03-2005, 09:48 AM

I share the same opinion about the 40's,I dont think you need that big of a tire on the LSP,I wish proline would make a lo pro tire that was as wide as the maxx bow tie.

CRSMP5 · #**375** 01-03-2005, 12:55 PM

honestly the proline 40 series bowtie is only slightly wider then teh normal bowtie.. the 40 series wighs less also.. less rubber, rember rubber weighs more then plastic.. i love my 40 series bowties on outback weld wheels, i only use normal bowties when i want the sidewall to roll in teh turns for added traction, the 40s slide easier.. between teh 2 you can dial the truck in for the track your on