| Monster Trucks Discussion and questions related to monster trucks electric and nitro. |
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02-24-2005, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hyperstang
Yo Ericmyson...
I pick mine up tomorrow and I going try break it in at Waipio during lunch time. Might swing by Sandy's or Aloha's to pick up the tmaxx/emaxx links to brace the chassis.
KDEN HAWAIIAN
CYA at the TRACK..
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go pick the revo aftermarket ones. The red ones.
I goin play at the track tomorrow (thursday). Goin get couple guys. I goin Tune my mach. 26 to the track.
laters.
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02-24-2005, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jmangler1
Thanks for info sutman! Right now I have a Ofna 086 pipe which is for top end. Does the Sirio make its power up top or is it a low to mid engine? I never got a chance to run my sirio yet so I figured you would know since you have ran yours already. Where can I get a set of the komodo tires at and which rims fit?
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There is loads of low to mid end power and just keeps on reving, I got my komodo tyres from http://www.stormerhobbies.com/ and will fit T-maxx style rims got mine on some RPM rims.
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02-24-2005, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by proraptor2625
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That's a clean truck. Is it the "Pro" version? I'm fairly sure it is not the Pro version.
Guys, how much difference is there from the RTR to the Pro? Will the RTR do as well on the track as a Pro? I would rather have the plastic a-arms anyway, as aluminum will surely bend (or cause something else to break).
Thanks
Last edited by Chevy-SS; 02-24-2005 at 08:09 AM.
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02-24-2005, 08:58 AM
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Hey Sutman,
So how do you like the Sirio .27?
Chevy SS,
Get the Pro. The pro has many upgrades then the RTR.
Then you could always just put the plastic arms on.
Has anyone tried the Team Infinity Samurai .28
or know if this is a good engine.
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02-24-2005, 09:36 AM
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can anyone gimme a link to buy a better chassis brace? im also interested in that aftermarket REVO red one...(???) would like to know what is a direct fit for it...
we're abot to have a snow storm here again in NYC so its time to just upgrade and sit back....
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02-24-2005, 09:50 AM
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Check out the Braces I made out of Revo and T-maxs turnbuckles. The pics are back on pg 33. A couple posts down lists all the part numbers for them.
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02-24-2005, 10:14 AM
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I also did the revo up grade and it made a huge difference in chassis flex which this truck does have a bit of.
But that mod takes care of 90% of it!
It still flexes a little but what truck does not just a little somewhere.
Still waiting to race my Mach also just broke it in and have run it a couple times around the house lots of power now!
I like the new truck also cr
LOOKS SWEET!
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02-24-2005, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Chevy-SS
That's a clean truck. Is it the "Pro" version? I'm fairly sure it is not the Pro version.
Guys, how much difference is there from the RTR to the Pro? Will the RTR do as well on the track as a Pro? I would rather have the plastic a-arms anyway, as aluminum will surely bend (or cause something else to break).
Thanks
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The truck is not the pro model. I didnt see the need to buy the pro just like you. The rr runs awesome and will hold its own on the track. The only thing with the rr is they dont put silicone in the diffs so you get some unloading in the front wheels. Add that and it will run awesome!
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02-24-2005, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Keegy
can anyone gimme a link to buy a better chassis brace? im also interested in that aftermarket REVO red one...(???) would like to know what is a direct fit for it...
we're abot to have a snow storm here again in NYC so its time to just upgrade and sit back....
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check out pages 16 and 17.
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02-24-2005, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by proraptor2625
The truck is not the pro model. I didnt see the need to buy the pro just like you. The rr runs awesome and will hold its own on the track. The only thing with the rr is they dont put silicone in the diffs so you get some unloading in the front wheels. Add that and it will run awesome!
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There are a few more differences then just silicone diff oil. With the Pro
you get Hardened gears in the diffs, 3 shoe clutch, better shocks and a couple of other things. CR posted somewhere in this thread about all the
differences.
Has anybody ever tried the Team Infinity Samurai .28
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02-24-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ktmkurt
There are a few more differences then just silicone diff oil. With the Pro
you get Hardened gears in the diffs, 3 shoe clutch, better shocks and a couple of other things. CR posted somewhere in this thread about all the
differences.
Has anybody ever tried the Team Infinity Samurai .28
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I am quite aware of the differences between the 2 models. But all you need to do is add some silicone oil to the diffs and the RR will run just as good if not better than the pro especially without the extra weight of all the aluminum on the pro. The only other thing that the pro has thats worth while is the 3 show clutch. But you only really need that if you are running a hot engine in my experiences. The stock final gears that come with the RR work fine. This is my second lightning stadium. The first one had a RB C5 in it and it was an RR and the thing held up fine.
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02-24-2005, 04:26 PM
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what part and manufacturers are compatible with this hotbodies truggy. e.g. Kyosho or GS front c-hubs.
What else will work?, how about diff gears? Which other brands of cars out there have the same diff gears?
I just wanted to know just in case our local hobby shops don't have hotbodies parts in stock.
thanks in advance.
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02-24-2005, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ericmyson
what part and manufacturers are compatible with this hotbodies truggy. e.g. Kyosho or GS front c-hubs.
What else will work?, how about diff gears? Which other brands of cars out there have the same diff gears?
I just wanted to know just in case our local hobby shops don't have hotbodies parts in stock.
thanks in advance.
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Not sure about the GS hubs but, the Kyosho hubs fit.
The Pro has spiral cut gears in the diffs so I think you would
have to run only the spiral cut gears there. Hope this helps Brah!
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02-24-2005, 05:55 PM
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The shocks are also different on the pro version the shafts are thicker and you get the duall brake in the pro version too.
I like the pro cause of the aluminum stuff just makes it look cool and more race ready.
But everybody has there opinion
but I have to say this though I have never heard anybody stick up for a 2 shoe clutch they just suck for the most part three shoe are the way to go!
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02-24-2005, 06:27 PM
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Finally arrived..
Got my LSP and this thing looks CCRRRAAAZYYYY!!!
Just got through putting in my Electronics and I had an extra set of Rod for my REVO (Black) and I made my chassis brace. Really not that hard. I don't know if I can get any fuel in her today, but maybe Saturday and a little more on Sunday before the race. If not, my REVO with OS TM will go out on Sunday, but I'll probably make time for the break in..
Here she is..
Putting on the braces for the chassis..
My Novak Crytal less receiver with fail safe..
Pictures of the front and rear brace..
Now I need to add diff lube, what is everyone running again or what is a good start off with.
Also, this is a stupid question,  but how do you get the lube in the center diff, will I need to tear down and open her up, also do I need to open the front and rear diffs to get the lube in there also??
Sorry, all my 1/8th scale stuff was done by another person, so I need some old school learning..
RACE ON!!!!
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02-24-2005, 06:34 PM
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 Just a pic of my LSP in Action. This shot is from the CRCRC winter indor Gas Champs first year for the MT class.I run 32.5 shock oil in the front and 35 in the rear.DIff oils are as follow 7000 7000 3000 and it seems to work great.I have had this truck since they came out with the first shipment.and i have been through 4 front diff cases one front shock 3 of the front purple brace and final one steering knucle.Now i have switch to all MP777 front end parts from king heads and have had no problems.
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02-24-2005, 06:40 PM
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Hey Eric just to make sure before i order the stuff....if i get the GS backplate and OWB i can fit the stock roto start onto my mach....  have got the part no.s ?
Thanks
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ericmyson
CRSMP5,
Thanks for the info on the mach. 26 mod.
I used the GS backplate and one way. and the roto.
Got three tanks so far i'll be finishing the break in after lunch today. Ran the third tank about 10 pm here in hawaii. I wonder which of my neighbors are pissed off  . Anyways, thanks again.
Hyperstang,
so what, yours one ready already?
check you out laters.
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02-24-2005, 08:15 PM
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savage diff gears, also teh pro has sealed bearings, additional aluminum suspention brace, 3 shoe clutch, 7075 steering knuckles..
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02-24-2005, 11:20 PM
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Sh 28 ?
I got the SH 21 Pro Buggy backplate. It looks like I only need to take a 1/16 of an inch off the Crank step down for the back plate to go in all of the way. The step down on the end of the crank is a good 1/8 of an inch long. I looks like the con rod will be able to move side to side. Shouldn't the con rod, end of crank, and back plate almost come together?
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02-24-2005, 11:24 PM
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can i use any Ofna starter box for the LSP? that roto start barely fits into its spot because the wide bumper so it makes starting a hassle to manuever the roto post through the bumper slot and then find it's catch...
ive never owned a starter box only pull starts and rotos...
do you just lay it on top and switch the box on?
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02-25-2005, 12:36 AM
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What weight diff lube does the RTR (Not the PRO) come with?
Do I need to disassemble the fr/rr diffs to put the lube in? Do I need to open up the center?
thanks
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02-25-2005, 03:07 AM
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im not sure if i read about the 40 series proline rims with bowties....but am i going to have any problems with these wheels and tires ???
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02-25-2005, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Keegy
can i use any Ofna starter box for the LSP? that roto start barely fits into its spot because the wide bumper so it makes starting a hassle to manuever the roto post through the bumper slot and then find it's catch...
ive never owned a starter box only pull starts and rotos...
do you just lay it on top and switch the box on?
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your suppose to go from under the bumper and under the arms with the rotostart shaft .. if u push the truck down a lil it helps a bit .but u really dont have to ...
i tried to get it to work on my starter box and its a pain.. i need to make the opening to the flywheel a bit larger.....
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02-25-2005, 05:43 AM
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keith-oh showed his starter box opening mod on i think 1 page back..
the rtr non pro has grease in the diffs, so needs taken apart, grease cleaned out oil put in.. no idea on weights
sh backplate.. make sure there is enough room so when the crank heats up and expnds it will not hit the back plate.. if it does say by by engine...
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02-25-2005, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Letsavit
Hey Eric just to make sure before i order the stuff....if i get the GS backplate and OWB i can fit the stock roto start onto my mach....  have got the part no.s ?
Thanks
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Yeah, i ran the gs backplate and GS one way, and used the stock roto that came with the HB .26. Make sure you put the black spring that comes with Mach .26 roto system behind the one way bearing shaft and then you put on the roto cover.
The funny thing is that, I got to run my truggy today with my mach. 26 and dayum. I had to tweak out the suspension and change tires (To much wheel spin with the bow ties.). I had to mellow this bad boy out cuzz i believe our track is too small for the horsepower, I kept overshooting the jumps  . But the "Ballz" is definetly there.  . I got it toned down, where my lap time were more consistent. Just remember going from the stock motor to the mach .26 may have an adverse effect on your setup  .
GIVE UM.. CHEEEEEWHOOOOOOOOOOOO
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