[Monsterbrad]

Cool can't wait to see that..
HEy cr I hope you are right about the oven thing and the wheels.
I would like to mount the stock tires on the rpm rims I am getting..

[CRSMP5]

well thats what i did to mine, you will need to wear gloves that are heat resistant, ive found to peal them off the wheels works best when the rubber is hot... but i can do it if it scares you.. if you cannot figure it out bring them sunday and even bring glue and wheels and the following week they will be ready..

once hot push on the tire by the bead.. you will know cause the tire peals right out of the wheel lip, may even pop a little as it breaks free.. then just work your way around, i found the outside beads were much easier then the inside beads.. aka idea of heatign them up a 2nd time if need be.. once the tires cool they do not come apart as easily..

also do not plan to bake any cookies anytime soon unless you like a little rubber taste... so do not do it in your mom's oven

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR I might just take you up on that offer..
I don't want to piss mom or the girl friend off buy making the oven smell like burnt rubber they will hate me for a while.
Although I could do it any ways:-)

[Chevy-SS]

MB, I have boiled off a few sets of tires and it doesn't stink up the oven or house. Use a big enough pot and just make sure the water level stays high enough. The tire will bobble around and it takes about ten minutes per side to get off. Wear gloves, cause you gotta peel the rubber off while it's hot.

Baking them all at once sounds quicker, but more dangerous. ;-)

[NJRC]

won't the plastic wheel get all bent out of shape from such hot temperatures in boiling water or even a hot oven. It takes me a few seconds to take a lighter to a plastic piece for it to start melting.
I rather just spend the money for a set of new wheels than risk driving around with a bent out of shape wheel just from pulling rubber off.

[CRSMP5]

we changing the wheels, we are after keeping the stock tires on strong wheels.. so thats of no concern, but i have not yet melted a wheel with either boil or bake method.. i have seen acitone melt wheels though..

also there is no direct flame being applied to teh wheel.. just heat in a oven or water thats boiling.. personally when i boil things i turn it off then submirge the wheel so i cannot accedentlly forget them with damage..

boil works, but it takes a day or 2 for the foams to be 100% dry cause to glue them with moisture in them makes stinky tire..

[proraptor2625]

I just bought a lightning stadium rr rtr. The truck looks awesome and I cant wait to race it. I have a question though. The suspension is really soft. The truck bottoms out very very easily and I was thinking of picking up some thicker weight shock oil. Does anyone know a good setup for a track I have the stock springs and stock oil (dont know the weight). What oil should I buy? I was thinking 40-50wt. Thanks!

[CRSMP5]

there are no stiffer springs ive found at the moment.. im still running stock oils, i suggest looking into what the buggies at the track are using and use that as a start..

[proraptor2625]

Your suspension isnt too soft? Mine bottoms out like 4-5 inches off the ground and dropped...There are some massive doubles that would murder my lightning with the stock suspension settings...Im sure I could always mock my Kyosho setup...Thank you!

[CRSMP5]

hey mb i just got a set of tires and wheels off ebay 47$ shipped if you ship the rpm wheels to me i may be able to have a set done for ya sunday..

honestly, for everying ive run it on ive had no issue of it bottoming out in a drag dirt way.. you can use the "spacers" to bring up the ride height, but to be completly honest i like a plush feel to my stuff.. too stiff and you get tipping issues.. try it stock 1st is my suggestion then work your way up..

also make sure to read the thread for flaws thats been found and the simple mods to correct them.. on pg 8 ill reillerate them all, the past 2 pages i beleive they are all hit on.. i know they are on the 1st page for sure though.. i just dont like to rehit a topic on every page if ya know what i mean..

[proraptor2625]

Yeah I saw all your tips and tricks...Ill make sure my truck is good to go using your fixes before race day for sure. Thanks again

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I hope the "new" 40 series wheels are decent...I've broken one wheel and bent $200 worth of wheel/tire packages already....At $100 a set, you'd think they would be a little better?

I'm staying with standard wheels until I see the new ones and how they perform......Jim

[CRSMP5]

proline used to replace them.. now they will only replace them IF you were using 26$ worth of spinner nuts for added support.. so if you still have the 200$ worth of damaged packages, call proline, an dship wheel sand tires back and they will give ya new wheels and tires.. used to be able to do that with photos thru email but it got abused..

so saying that im willing to give them a try, cause if they break i know proline will hook me up with new wheels and tires.. just for now the bomb set up on clay is the stock tires.. so that will be a deal with in end of feb, beginnign of mar for outdoor season

[proraptor2625]

Im not sure if this has been posted but I was wondering if you guys could tell me what parts are identical to the lightning buggies? Will any of the buggy parts fit on the stadium? Also are there any aftermarket parts available for the lightning buggy/stadium? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

go back 1 page, read post 113 thru the one photo.. was talked about the other day..

hop ups.. should have bought a pro version to be completly honest..

[proraptor2625]

Originally Posted by CRSMP5

go back 1 page, read post 113 thru the one photo.. was talked about the other day..

hop ups.. should have bought a pro version to be completly honest..

Naw the pro version wasnt my cup of tea...Im not a fan of aluminum suspension arms at all and I hate CVD's with a passion...I got the truck free anyways so I cant complain...

[CRSMP5]

well then the best way to do it i fyou want hop ups, aka pro parts, is to find a cheap pro roller bugy for things like the steering knuckles, aluminum suspention holders and such.. i got one for 80$ one day which is far cheaper then buying indivudal parts..

the gs storm cnc hubs think dynimite or someone makes them is a direct fit at 20$ along with some kyosho kani parts.. but not sure of what kani parts fit.. i know c hibs and such the same, the engine mounts same.. but thats it that i know of via photos...

[winning edge designs]

Teh difference between the Pro and RR is alot, it is a far better deal to get a set of plastic arms for $18 and have all the added items that the Pro gets. Hardened diff gears, cnc knuckles, aluminum arms (seem good, but move the breakage rather then stop it, typical for any vehicle).....I believe the driveshafts are the same in both though, only universals in front........Jim

[CRSMP5]

pro has center cvds also and tri breaks, also the front arms have a aluminum rear support on the pro vs the rtr.. 30$ part... plastic is 5$ for 2 though.. so can break alot of plastic ones...

but i agree.. if you dislike aluminum arms, buy pro and get plastic, 18$ and then you have a life time supply of spares for the track.. aka aluminum incase the plastic breaks.. i still plan to buy plastic arms.. just have not yet, ive never beleived in aluminum arms.. but they were not the reason to not buy a pro.. the other stuff outweighed that.. then to see the aluminum arms are 70$ for 2, your talking about 140$ worth of arms alone for a 100$ price differance..

[NJRC]

Originally Posted by CRSMP5

well then the best way to do it i fyou want hop ups, aka pro parts

a few post back

[QOUTE=CRSMP5]but if you consider them hop ups so be it.. they are just stock parts that even the rtr2 version has[/QOUTE]

I thought you kinda had mixed feelings about stock pro parts being considered hop up parts?

proraptor2625.....if you don't like the cvd's in the front of the stadium, then you can alwasy do what I did and find someone willing to switch their stadium to cvd's all around and take their rear dogebones and use them up front. This is what I did with a fellow stadium owner whowanted cvd's in the rear. I traded my broken cvd's for his dogbones. he kne wthey were broken since he was getting free replacements from HB

[CRSMP5]

guess you missed the "aka pro parts" i said there....

look at last post in the buggy thread.. see that chassis.. thats a hop up.. no ill put it here.. incase you cannot find it


thats a version 1 buggy aka original sacker racer part... by photo... id redrill it for all the pro2 positions or find a person who could copy it.. nice find on ebay at the moment..

someday ill own a sacker version.. like the blue more then purple...

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR man you guys talked alot on here since I was on last...
ANy way should I change the stock clutch for Sunday?????
I am not sure..
Plus is this engine stock as powerfull as the GS 25 engine...
Seems a little slow to me....

[CRSMP5]

i never ran it in the lsp, so hard to say.. stock clutch should be good, but ill have spares with me at the track as i picking up 2 sets of shoes from browns and to change the shoes is cake on it.. less then 10min of work and if you remove the 4 screws to teh purple plates do not even need to mess with the gear mesh

ive never ran the sut one so no idea.. but rember for the gas chamber engine is not key..

the one you saw was the stock engine, so its more then capable.. when outdoor season comes about we will see what im running an dhave access to so you can decide what power you want..

[xxxkat]

I thought the stock clutch worked fine,if anything change the springs to some stiffer ones.I to thought the stock motor was a bit soft on the top,I dont think it's as strong as the GS motor but it does out handle the GS..big time.I'm just going to run either a Ofna 28 or a Nova Rossi 28,I'm leaning towards the Ofna because you can get a roto start for it.. Has anyone tried running a bigger clutch bell(14 to 17 tooth).And the difference in the Pro vrs. RTR is more than the suspension arms and the CVD's,With the PRO you get a better chassis(7075 vrs 6065)same with the shock towers,You get hardened gears(Diffs),Rubber seald bearings vrs metal,better clutch alum 3 shoe vrs 2 pcs. clutch.better brakes,machined steering arms vrs cast.I'm sure theirs more.I bought the Pro and took the alum. A arms off..it was really easy and did not cost to much

[proraptor2625]

Hey guys when I say hop up parts Im mainly looking for lighter parts. The shocktower design shouldnt bend seeing how low they are and the plastic bracing they already have. Id like to get a carbon fiber servo plate, a carbon fiber center diff plate. I want to make the truck as light as possible. Afterall lighter is indeed faster...Also Metal shielded bearings work just fine...Ive been racing RC's for a long time and have always used metal shielded bearings and they have never let me down...I still think the rtr is a better deal...Most of the "hop ups" you get swith the pro are useless...The only thing I see that is a real hop up is the 3 shoe clutch...

BTW: I bought 50WT shock oil today and put it in the shocks as a starting point. It seems to run a lot better. The truck runs 50% better already in the suspension dept. I now need to find some replacement springs...Ill have to measure them and see if I can find a spring that is close to the same length...Ill bet the springs are just 4 rear buggy springs. Ill have to look for some that are a tad stiffer to keep the chassis from hitting the ground. Yes I know the truck is supposed to bottom out but when it bottms out going off a curb the suspension is too soft.