[GSMnow]

I have seen peaks over 80 amps on the Eagle Tree, but this is measured at the battery. 80 amps x 6.6 volts = 528 watts. The battery connector is barely warm. Due to the switching nature of the ESC, it does trade off voltage for current at low rpms. I would bet the peak current at the motor wires is well over 100 amps. The 13 gauge wires were quite hot as well, but I bet most of that was conducted heat from the connector dying. I have it running solid again. The bends I put in the springs is holding so far, but I have not run it more than 3 minutes at full load. Time will tell, but I know I need stronger connectors.

[razzor]

I have a new MM that i installed in my touring car with a 13.5 motor.
I have a hassle in that teh on/off switch is not turning the esc on.
I have tested for voltage on the board and it shows the switch is working.
I did a firmware upgrade prior to installation and was wondering if that could be the cause.
I have reinstalled the older firmware but still no luck.
For me to use the MM i have to install a reciever pack to power up the reciever and then the esc switches on.
I have programmed the esc and its working fine.
Do you think its a issue with teh esc itself ??? any suggestions welcome.

[rccardude04]

We've had some problems with a guy who has some shrink wrap melting problems with Deans on a 1/8 buggy conversion. We put a Castle BEC on it which seemed to help, but the BEC let go and put out 16.2V, straight into the receiver, which obviously caused some other issues.

It'd be nice if the Castle BEC would have worked. They're sending us a new one which I hope doesn't blow up, but if we have any more trouble I'm not entirely sure what to do. Maybe some AstroFlight Zero loss connectors?

-Eric

[rccardude04]

Razzor, what firmware? 1.17?

Recalibrate your ESC to your transmitter. When you turn the switch on just HOLD WOT until you get beeps. It may take 10 seconds or longer, especially if you're using spektrum.

-Eric

[CODMAN]

Thyanks again GSM for your very valuable input.

Cheers!

CODMAN

Originally Posted by GSMnow

I like to leave the take off ramp under a bit of power, probably more than 1/2 trigger on the big ones here. You are correct, if you leave under enough power that you are accelerating up the hill, there is a good chance the rear wheels will try to drive under the front and make the nose go way up. But as you will find out, you have much more brake available than power for attitude control, so having the nose go up a bit is not a big deal. In my case, the car is usually at about 30 degrees nose up in mid air, so I nudge the brakes, and the nose comes right down. If I do it right (better than 1/2 the time now) I can get the bottom of the chassis parallel with the landing area before it touches down. If I don't over jump the lading hill (easy to do with a Mamba Max) I can land it right on the down side and it barely seems to hit. When I do over shoot though, you can sure hea the whole thing just slap, but I certainly don't expect the shocks to stop the car in 1 inch from a 5 foot high flight.

4WD also adds another technique that I am just starting to try and use. Steering the spinning front wheels can tilt the car left to right. I may have it backwards again. I didn't try it the last few times out since I was not able to race for 3 months, I am quite rusty right now. But I think it was.. steer to the side of the car you want to go up. If you hold the car in your had, rev it up and steer, you can really feel the twist on the chassis.

Timing on the Mamba max is not much different than timing on any type of motor (even gasoline car engines) More timing advance will push the torque curve to a higher rpm. The problem is that on electric motors, it greatly reduces efficiency, especially at lower rpm. This results in much more heat buildup. In a gasoline engine, it ends up knocking and destroys the engine, on electric motors they just get hotter until they burn out. Since you already have more power than you can really use, there is no reason to run alot of timing advance. Running the lowest timing will make the motor run the coolest and therefore waste the least power into just heat. Max rpm does not change much, but the amount of torque just below max rpm will be less as you reduce the timing. The torque at low rpm really does not change much. You are more likely limited my current limits and most of the time the rotor is in a pole, not right at the switch points where timing would effect it. Brush motors suffer more torque loss with advance due to more internal resistance. And the Mamba Max specifically is very smart and does not advance the low rpm timing much at all, it increases timing advance with rpm just like the ignition system in a car. Short answer, less timing will soften the top end a little, lower the temp of the motor, and extend your run time for a given battery and driving style.

The type of radio is not that important, what I was asking is how much use has the triger had. My new Spektrum is rock solid, I can run a very tight dead band, and it works just fine. My old Futaba Magnum Jr. from the mid 80's though has pretty worn out pots in it. The dead zone of both the steering and the trigger are not very accurate due to wear. If I try setting a tight dead band on that, it stutters and may not even arm reliably because the ESC sees the slop as trigger movement off of neutral. It is not easy to test, but you can try running a servo off of the throttle channel. Put a pointer on it and mark where it is aimed for neutral. Keep running it up and back. If it always lands right back in the same spot at neutral, it is in good shape and a tight dead band can give you a bit more useable throttle trigger travel. If the point is not always at the same spot with the trigger left at neutral, or even worse, if it jitters a bit, then you need to run a wider dead band so it does not stutter between light braking and light throttle with the trigger in the center.

Don't get too hung up on tweaking the Mamba Max. Find settings that don't bother you, and then practice driving with it. You can get used to any throttle curve that is not too wild. Making changes all the time will make it a new learning experience each time you hit the track. So take a bit of time one time at the track and play with a few things to see what feel you like, and then stick with it. When I change the curve, it can take a few packs to re-learn how much trigger you need (or can use) in certain places on the track. Compared to my MM5700, the Novaks hit much harder at light throttle, but then seem to have very little left for the second half of the trigger. When I traded cars with another guy, he hated the sluggiish feel of mine, and his was so jumpy it seemed overly nervous in slow corners, and once past half trigger on the straight, there just was no more power to be had. With my car, he kept spinning it out about 1/2 way downthe straight. It took him a while to realise there was still a lot more power left.

Nothing is more important than practice. Good batteries are probably second.

[razzor]

Originally Posted by rccardude04

Razzor, what firmware? 1.17?

Recalibrate your ESC to your transmitter. When you turn the switch on just HOLD WOT until you get beeps. It may take 10 seconds or longer, especially if you're using spektrum.

-Eric

I have 1.17 and have calibrated the esc but with a reciever pack plugged into my Spektrum reciever to power the MM up.
The on/off switch on the MM is not switching the esc on, thats the hassle i have.

[GSMnow]

Originally Posted by razzor

I have 1.17 and have calibrated the esc but with a reciever pack plugged into my Spektrum reciever to power the MM up.
The on/off switch on the MM is not switching the esc on, thats the hassle i have.

Let me know if I have this right? The ESC will power up and run fine, but only with an RX battery? Is that right?

If that is the case, I think you blew out the internal BEC in the Mamba Max. What are you running for battery? 2S, 3S, 4S? Did you ever have it work, or was it dead first time out? Do you have a very high power servo? Some of the new ultra fast high torque digital servos can suck over 3 amps when stalled. That can smoke a BEC if it was trying to run against a limit on power up.

[GSMnow]

Oh well, I think I cooked my Mamba Max. After a year and a half of total abuse and flawless operation, it may have met it's match. Last week the Deans Ultra plugs I use betwen the ESC and motor started to fail. I got severe cogging and it failed to start on the track. I fixed the connectors and it seemed all was fine, but I was done for the day. Today I went to the track to race. I put it out on the track with a fully charged 6000 pack. After just 2 laps it stalled in mid air and nosed over on the big triple. And it would not climb the hill after the triple. I tried to rock it to drive it out due to the on coming 1/8 vehicles, but no luck, I had to run to it to get it off the track before the carnage. Well, I think the "rocking" to make it roll on the hill was a BAD idea. The ESC got extremely hot. I checked all the connectors and everything seemed fine. The drivetrain also rolled free. I plugged it all back up, turned it n, and it works again, but it was HOT and when it hit close to full speed, it went to full brake. It hit so hard it nearly yanked the car out of my hand. No wonder it nosed over on the hill. I am running a Spektrum and all the connections for the radio are fine. I cleaned all the dust out of the car, and re-seated all of the connectors and let it cool off completely. When I powered it back up it ran completely fine, no brake stab, and it runs full rpm with no issue. I tried it one more time on the track, and sure enough, about 2 laps in, it hit hard brakes again when I was close to top speed. I pulled it off the track right away, and the ESC was again very hot. Something is obviously damaged.

So no race tonight. Probably not for 4 week as I send it in to Castle.

I will most likely send in the whole setup, as my motor could use a freshening as well. I guess it is time for me to buy another setup so I have a backup.

[rccardude04]

Have you disconnected the red wire on the receiver plug?

-Eric

[razzor]

Originally Posted by GSMnow

Let me know if I have this right? The ESC will power up and run fine, but only with an RX battery? Is that right?

If that is the case, I think you blew out the internal BEC in the Mamba Max. What are you running for battery? 2S, 3S, 4S? Did you ever have it work, or was it dead first time out? Do you have a very high power servo? Some of the new ultra fast high torque digital servos can suck over 3 amps when stalled. That can smoke a BEC if it was trying to run against a limit on power up.

First thing i did after recieving the MM was to update the software to 1.17 as i bought it for a 1/8 brushless conversion.
Seeing i dont have a motor yet i fitted it into my Tamiya with a 13.5 motor.
It wouldnt switch on after the installation.
So i started fault finding and charged the 6 cell 4600 battery and fitted another Spektrum reciever.
I then checked all contacts and there was continuity so no hassle.
I tested the switch from the MM and it showed continuity.
Connected battery and it wouldnt switch on.
I then took a reciever battery from my 1/8 buggy and plugged it into the Spektrum and it switched on.
I then tested the switch for voltage going to the circuit board and it was getting voltage but not swithing on.

I can understand if i connected something wrong or shorted something but in this case nothing like that happenned.
I have over 16 years of rc behind me and am activley involved in racing at club and national level so its not that i dont know what to check but would like to verify that its a hassle with the MM and not a programming glitch or similar.
Wouldnt be practical to send back to Castle for repairs as postage from South Africa would work out close to half teh price of buying another MM.

I have emailed Castle and hd recieved a initial email to reflash the esc to the older version but it did not make a difference and am waiting for a reply from them now.

[GSMnow]

I pulled the complete Mamba Max 5700 out of my car, expecting to have to send it to kansas, but I figured I should at least clean the dirt off of it. Well, I may be a very lucky guy. As I was wiping down the motor and spinning the shaft, the motor froze in my hand for a second. The wires were not even connected. It freed back up and I was not sure I really felt it jam. I spun it again and shook it, and sure enough I felt it do it again. I had had my motor apart a few times already, so I figured I would take a look. There was A LOT of dirt inside again. The silicone sealant I used around the wires broke loose again and let it in, but then I saw it, a fair bit a steel stuck on the rotor. The magnet is strong enough to hold it on tight until the rpm gets quite high. If I shot through that rpm fast enough (wheels off the ground) I guess it just flung into the windings. But under track loaded acceleration, it must have been hitting a point where it was wedging into the winding and the rotor actiong like a brake. I did see a few tiny nicks in the windings, but nothing that looks like it made it through the varnish. All 3 windings measure the same impedance and after a good clean out I did a KV check.

No load at all, no pinion even
7.56 volts at ESC input terminals = 42,870 rpm or 5670.6 KV
spinning a slave motor at no load, for a minor load
7.30 volts at the ESC input = 40,980 rpm or 5613.7 KV

Not bad at all for a 5700 KV rated system. Thge ESC has been powerewd for 15 minutes and doing quite a bit of light load running and it is still stone cold. I am now starting to think my start of cogging was the motor jamming and the huge current it caused was heating the connectors and killed them. It does seem to make sence. I plan to do a higher load test and hopefully drive the car for a full pack tomorrow and see if I need a repair or not.

If it does still work fine after how hot I got it, Castle really deserves a prize. I thought it was smoked for sure. I hope to find out for sure tonight.

[rccardude04]

GSM... That's one tough controller! I bet that's all it was if the motor has problems. We had a guy run 3s on a 9200kV motor from dynamite on a mamba 25, and the thing would get HOT very quickly. Changed the motor, good to go!

-Eric

[GSMnow]

Originally Posted by razzor

First thing i did after recieving the MM was to update the software to 1.17 as i bought it for a 1/8 brushless conversion.
Seeing i dont have a motor yet i fitted it into my Tamiya with a 13.5 motor.
It wouldnt switch on after the installation.

I then checked all contacts and there was continuity so no hassle.
I tested the switch from the MM and it showed continuity.
Connected battery and it wouldnt switch on.
I then took a reciever battery from my 1/8 buggy and plugged it into the Spektrum and it switched on.
I then tested the switch for voltage going to the circuit board and it was getting voltage but not swithing on.

Your symptoms do sem very odd.

Have you taken the ESC out of the case? Inspect where the wires from the switch go. Also check the 3 wire harness to the RX. Without the RX batt, does the ESC light any LED's? With nothing plugged in except a battery pack, the ESC should flash all three LED's. This means no pulses from the RX, which would be correct. If it is not doing this, that I would say the lead from the switch to the ESC is broken. Make sure you can clearly see where all the wires go. Just in case one does come off on you. Then try lightly wiggling and tugging on the leads. I had a few break on mine, but only after some serious ab-use. I have since replaced my switch and RX harnesses. You need to be extremely careful to solder on the PCB in the Mamba Max. The small wires are not too bad with a temp controlled soldering iron. The Battery and output connections are another story. Since yours is running with an external RX bat, those should be fine though. If the LED's do light, but you get no power to the RX, then it sounds like the lead to the RX is bad. That would be a break in the red wire, the one you would remove if you were going to use an external BEC or RX bat.

Good luck finding you problem.

[GSMnow]

Back to my Mamba Max issue...

I checked al of the wiring over very carefully. It turns out that all 5 high power leads were pretty bad. The wires are freyed and nearly 1/2 broken through about 1/4 inch above the PC board. When you wiggle the wires, you can feel it move around in the insulation. The black batt lead was the worst. I gave it a little pull and it popped right off, leaving a 1/3 stub of bare solder tinned wire sticking out of the PCB. I know I don't want to solder right on the board. That is just asking for trouble. It even voids the warranty, but I am way past that already. I used 5 high current solid copper crimp lugs, and with some dremel work, made them into solder posts. They fit snug around the factory wires out of the Mamba Max PCB. I tinned them well, placed them over the wire stubs, and heated them with a high power iron so the solder would flow withe the wires from the PCB. This is NOT RECOMENDED for anyone who is not very proficient at soldering. The PCB carries away the heat very quickly. I would say it was almost like soldering NiMh cells with battery bars. I used thin aluminum sheet as a heat shiled for the board, heatsink, fan, and caps. I worked quickly but carefully to minimize heating the board. It went very well and the whole ESC (except for my solder posts)never got over 135F according to my Losi temp tuner IR thermometer. I sirect soldered the motor leads onto the posts and put a new Deans connector on with fresh #12 wire for the battery connection.

TIme for a test.

I am not totally sure of it's status at this point. I took it for a run on just a single one of my beat up 2S 3000 LiPo's. I know they are way down on current, so I figured it would be easier on the ESC. It is certainly a bit off on acceleration and top speed vs running the two 3000's in 2S2P or the Losi 5000 pack, but I drove it pretty hard for 9 minutes, stopping a few times to check temps. The motor was fairly warm, the ESC was just barely warm to the touch, so I kept going a bit longer. The speed really started to fall off, and I figured the LVC would stop it any time now, but the car seemed to just get slower and slower, especially on acceleration, but then after a tight turn it just started to cog really bad so I stopped right away and picked it up. The motor got fairly hot and the ESC was very hot again. The car rolls free, so nothing bound up.

I took it back to the bench to look it over. The battery was down to 6.6 where the LVC would cut in, so maybe it just flaked out. I let it cool off again and plugged in the Losi 5000. I drove it very hard and it did act like it locked up the brakes just once. After less than a minute of run, it seemed like it jammed, but when I got to it it rolled free again. ESC was still just barely warm, so I rolled into it carefully, and it seemed fine again. I ramped up the running and within a couple minutes I was doing full throttle figure 8's lifting the inside front tire off the ground ans it accellerates out of the sweeping curves. WOW. with the Losi 5000, shorter wires, and solid connections it just shot out of the turns and pulled to where the tires grew and lifted the car over 1/2 inch higher off the ground. I did 5 passes at full bore, checked the car, and the ESC was just warm, the motor was getting pretty hot. I did about 5 more very hard passes, pulling it as hard as I dared out of each turn, getting on the power sooner each lap. I guess I got a bit too aggressive. I got the tail out, coutersteered it, andwhen it snapped back around it went up nto 2 wheels, revved the inside tires up to 40 mph, and as I eased off to catch it, the car whipped over into a bad cartwheel on the pavement. My nose wong worked and saved the shock tower, but it did snap off the screw holding the right front shock to the tower. End of test. The motor got pretty hot, over 150F. The ESC was up to 140F, but it seems like it is running as good as ever. I don't know what caused the one lock up with the Losi 5000 pack, and the cogging with the weaker battery was very bad and made it get very hot. Are these normal situations? I rarely run to LVC, but I have when those bateries were in better shape, and I never remember it going that hot from it.

I will try to report any findings after I finally get the beast to the track,

[GSMnow]

Well, the findings are not good. I took it out for another street bash, and it started acting up after just 2 or 3 minutes, and the ESC got very hot again. I still can't tell for sure if it is totally an electronic problem in the ESC, or if there is an issue in the motor causing this odd behaviour. I tried to roll it very slow and see what it does, and it sure felt like a mechanical bin up, but when I let off the trigger, the car rolls free again. I tried to pick up a Sidewinder ESC today to test, but they were out of stock. They only had Mamba Max 6900 or 7700 combos. Too much money for a test and to high revving of motors for my use. I could justify a Sidewinder 4600 system for my truck, but not another MM with a hotter motor.

What makes this whole situati0on so odd is that it will run for over 7 minutes like there is nothing wrong at all. That does not sound like an electronic issue. I wonder if I blew up a bearing cage? I did that to a bearing on the spur gear setup in the XXX-4, and it acted like a ratchet where it would turn fine, then jam, and you had to turn it backward to open it up again. I know the bearings in the chassis are fine now, but the motor bearings do sound a bit crunchy. They seemed to spin fine though. Any ideas??

[ElectricThunder]

From earlier descriptions (steel on the rotor, crunchy bearings, etc.) I think maybe your motor bearings would be a good thing to look at.

Other than that, I would just send it in to Castle.

[chilledoutuk]

gsm can you not borrow a motor from someone to test your mamba max controller as it might be about time you got yourself another motor.

[GSMnow]

I have a new data point.
I took it out just now with the Eagle Tree logger setup. Of course it ran a minute and half flawlessly again. In fact it was running great, But it happened. At just over 90 seconds in, it stuttered, then didn't want to roll off. I only gave it two quick trigger pulls then pulled the battery connector.

I downloaded the log and took a look.
As expected, the first minute and a half were totally normal, showing peaksin the 65 amp range is about where it spins the tires on pavement. Holding 40 to 50 amps on the straights. Then OH S**T! 118 AMPS!!!!

Almost 700 watts into the ESC when the motor fails to start. But when I went to pull the plug, it again roled perfectly free. There is no mechanical binding anywhere. I made a point to just try to push the car forward before I did anything else. It rolled as free as ever, not even a tight spot. That eliminates the bearings or even debris in the drive train from the cause. I think I have either a failed FET that shorts when it gets hot, or a winding in the motor that is shorting once hot. Running it in cooler weather with my weaker battery, it takes much longer before it acts up. With less current, it takes longer to get hot enough to fail.

I could probably borrow a motor if I still had the bullet connectors on it, but noone likes to loan out when it is direct soldered. I am going to try a few electrical tests to see if I can tell if it is an FET or a winding in the motor. Too bad I don't have a 3 trace digital storage scope. I only have a 2 trace analog here.

Oh well. I went to do another quick test while typing this and I think I have my answer. I plugged the battery back into the Mamba Max, and there was a tiny puff of smoke out of the ESC. I only noticed it because I was right on top of it at the moment. I yanked the batery as fast as I could. I am sure it is over for it though. Never let out the magic smoke. I will request a return now. I'll pay the $95 for both the motor and ESC for overhaul. It is over due, I got my money's worth out of it, that is for sure.

In the mean time I WANT TO RACE!!!
I stuck one of my old Novak T4 ESCs and a 19 turn brush motor into the XXX-4 chassis. How is this for a huge surprise? I am running a pinion 1 tooth SMALLER than the Mamba Max 5700 with the 19 turn brush motor. That thing revs pretty high, and with the lower power available, I need a lower top speed. I would estimate it is topping out at 25 to 30 mph, about 8 mph slower than the Mamba Max 5700, but it does have rock solid acceleration, and it is very smooth and linear, which as good as the Mamba Max is, it is not super linear at lower speed. I ran the exact same setup n the car, with my street rubber, I took it for a test run. The loss in top speed is very evident on a large street area, but the control is great. I will certainly ask about changing my 5700 motor for a 4600 when I send it in. The lower power makes the XXX-4 a breeze to drive well past it's limits. I was doing wonderful 4 wheel drifts at full throttle and it was simple to control and adjust the arc with the throttle. I took it to the track, put on my dirt tires and ripped off a few laps faster than I did with the Mamba Max. The only 3 places on the whole track where I wanted more power was the jump to the infield table top, the big triple on the back, and past 1/2 way down the front straight. At the end of the straight, it feels SLOW, but it really isn't that bad, and I can take the sweeper without lifting. With the MM I have to really get out of it, and the car sometimes gets loose, this is so much easier, I almost make up the speed difference before the end of the sweeper. The jump to the table, I just can't reliably make it onto the table top. I should just give it up and single it. The big triple... Again, it just won't make it over the third hill, but I have to lift a bit and pedal it to make a good double without smaking hill 3. When I time it right, it lands great, and jumps #3 right to the climb onto the final table top 180 turn.

I didn't get lap times, but it felt at least as fast of a total lap as the MM5700 was doing. It is just a very different driving style.

And get this. The Mamba Max runs for 19 minutes on my 6000 LiPo, I only got 9 minutes on the 19 turn OUCH!!!!

Now I am going over to Castle's web site for a return autorization.

[Ball Racing]

I just got a monster mamba controller yesterday.
I started to try it High power brushed mode, because that all I have to try it with right now.

In this set-up it will not run if you have the li-po cut-off set ON..
It just barely kicks the tires a 1/16th of a revolution, and stops. then you pump the gas, and it does the same until the fan will kick in for a second then go out.

But with the cut off - off
It screams..

Also the program says it's not updateable??
and to check at castle page for a update?
I saw nothing to do this with.

I have upgraded my mamba max's to the 1.17 firmware,
But am I stuck on the monster with no updates?

and on the forward /brake proportinal with reverse lock-out, and then the forward/brake-no reverse etc.
settings:
One of those settings only gives me brakes when I instantly come off full power, if you coast any then hit the brake, you don't have Any?

[GSMnow]

Originally Posted by Ball Racing

I just got a monster mamba controller yesterday.
I started to try it High power brushed mode, because that all I have to try it with right now.

In this set-up it will not run if you have the li-po cut-off set ON..
It just barely kicks the tires a 1/16th of a revolution, and stops. then you pump the gas, and it does the same until the fan will kick in for a second then go out.

But with the cut off - off
It screams..

Also the program says it's not updateable??
and to check at castle page for a update?
I saw nothing to do this with.

I have upgraded my mamba max's to the 1.17 firmware,
But am I stuck on the monster with no updates?

and on the forward /brake proportinal with reverse lock-out, and then the forward/brake-no reverse etc.
settings:
One of those settings only gives me brakes when I instantly come off full power, if you coast any then hit the brake, you don't have Any?

What voltage is the LiPo cutoff set for? What are you running for batteries? Are they fully charged and with excellent connectors and heavy wire. What are you running for a motor? (turns, poles, size, etc.). A low turn brush motor will pull insane current when starting from a dead stop. This can dip the voltage and cause the LVC to kick in for an instant. You could try adding a bigger capacitor at the ESC input.

Brush motor brakes are a bit odd. You get more braking the faster you are goin, and almost no brakes at all when going slow. Low turn motors are the worst, very poor braking performance. The best the ESC can do is just short the motor leads together, and you will find it does not provide much torque unless it is spinning fast. Any resistance in the circuit will really kill it.

I don't know about the software update on the Monster, but could it just be no update since there is no new file to update to? I have 4 different firmware files for my Mamba Max, so it offers to load another file.

What motor are you planning on running? I still want to do a 1/8 conversion. I have a buggywith a motor mount in it just waiting on the CM2200 motor.

[Ball Racing]

I had One 7.4 li-po
charged ..... yes
connectors deans
I am running two 10 turn brushed 540's
I set the li-po cut off at ANY setting (other than off)and the truck won't work.
They are not pulling but so much in the air with no load, the tire will only move a 1/16th of a turn or so.
The brakes only work if you hit more than half throttle, then use brake,
if you coast too far then use the brake, you don't have ANY.
If you take off slow, and use only 1/8-1/4 throttle then hit the brakes you have NO brakes, NONE...
It seems like it needs more voltage input to trigger the controller into making the brakes work.



My truck was flawless before I put this controller in it.
I was running the mamba max, and that runs fine with the low voltage cut off on.
It has brakes Anytime I use them.

[GSMnow]

I am only guessing here, Maybe one of the Castle guys can chime and and let us know for sure.

Maybe the Mamba Monster Max is designed for 4S to 6S and needs more than 2S voltage to work right. I would not try it on two 10 turn motors though, maybe with them in series.

[Ball Racing]

Thats how we run modified race clods,
we have run two 6 turns, on one controller.

Thats not a issue on this one, when at speed and run hard the controller is only 95 degrees, just no brakes down low, and no li-po cut off.

My mamba max on two 9 turns runs around 119 with no fan..

[GSMnow]

On 2S, sure, it will run the two low turn motors. I think the MMM needs more voltage, and at 4S a 10 turn motor will be an extreme load.

[Ball Racing]

I have run 4s on two 10 turns with a novak super duty.
It just gets hot fast, goes to thermal in under a minute or two. but works..
(4s on a 540 can is like a lightning bolt, it makes lots of heat, sparks, and destruction, and I don't run that set-up on a regular basis)
Oh, I just pulled out the monster, and put another brand new regular mamba max in there,
Works great, brake at any speed, with the li-po cut off set at 6.2 volts..

Something in the software or firmware or something for the monster ,must need a upgrade or bug fix....

I don't see my problem with the monster as a "load" issue...
The mamba max saw no issues with it..
There is no way possible that the battery is being depleted to the LVC instanly, to not even turn the tires over a complete revolution when the LVC is on....

And that brake thing is messed up too....