Project Team Associated TR3 (TC3 truggy) 56k warning - Page 3

EDS · #51 02-16-2007, 05:03 PM

ok thanks Demon

EDS · #52 02-18-2007, 02:48 AM

I will be painting the body tomarrow hopefully I will be able to get pics up. Peace Ethan

EDS · #53 02-19-2007, 08:50 PM

Got the body painted. The masks didn't work that well but oh well this body is goign to get thrashed anyway. Peace EThan

I love my room lol

Demon-TC3 · #54 02-20-2007, 04:55 AM

wow looks very nice. excellent job.

EDS · #55 02-20-2007, 09:02 PM

Thanks Demon. I was looking at the pics and once again the shocks look jacked up. Oh yea in the top view I noticed that the tire is wide then the rear one . They are the same width jsut the forn wasn't on all the way. Peace Ethan

Demon-TC3 · #56 02-21-2007, 05:33 AM

hehe just noticed that in one of the pics from the top it looks like u got no A-arms on the front.

I think if i wanted to start a project (after machining some new a arms for my TC4) i want to make a brushless 1/8 bugy or truggy...well we can all hope

Eli the rc guy · #57 02-21-2007, 09:41 AM

Great job. I still don't like the over sized tires.

Demon-TC3 · #58 02-23-2007, 11:52 AM

I think its works with the scale, makes it look like an ST rather than a buggy so i gota say i like it.

As long as you can gear it right and keep the temps down!

Good luck with it.

EDS · #59 02-23-2007, 11:53 AM

I still need help on motors. 550 trinity monster motor vs 550 titan 12t vs 19t spec motor vs 17-15 turn vs 12-10 turn. I really need help on this I will be needing to buy a motor soon.I am leaning towards the 19t but thinking the trinity monster would give me the torque i need and would be able to handle the power better. Peace Ethan

JDT · #60 02-23-2007, 02:05 PM

What esc, with six decent cells and the mashers you need a final drive ratio of about 15:1 before you can use low turn motors, if you can't get to 15:1 then you should go 19 turn IMO. If you can hit 15:1 fdr then
the titan 12 turn is going to last longer than other 12 turns, downside is is about 70-80% of the power of a a "normal" 12 turn mod motor ($20-35) and about 50-60% of the power of a "good" racing 12 turn($59.99 and up)
Before I got the mamba 5700 my buggy/truggy I used 7 cells with a 13 turn triple sv2 pro bb so that may be an option if you can run 7 cells
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJAJ2&P=7
or get a $17 method 12 turn to experiment with in case you melt the endbell off

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBX3&P=7
or the r version for $19
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBY4&P=7
Brushless will save you money in the end. Almost forgot, the trinity monster motors eat brushes, I always used them in an emaxx so that might be it but boy the power was noticibility declining in just a five or six runs so I would stay away, it might also be because we always had to have the "wild" version, not sure on the "mild" version to be fair.

EDS · #61 02-23-2007, 06:18 PM

How can I find if I hit 15:1 ? I will eventually be going mamba it just will take me forever to save up $180 right now so i need something until I can buy a brushless.As far as a 12t. I like how it will last longer. I would be able to buy a nice orion revolution though used for cheap.Yea the monster motor woudl be a 18t. Thanks for the info. Peace Ethan

Demon-TC3 · #62 02-23-2007, 07:43 PM

OK if your after cells, go for the Maxamps 4.4K NIMH cells, you wont regret it! they are awsome cells.

As for a motor, go spec 19 turn and if you can a V2 endbell. i think the Peak Dynasty is about right...Modified motors just dont have the torque a 19 does...

AS for a monster stock motor, you would have very little speed (for offroad) and the torque is still less than a 19 turn.

EDS · #63 02-23-2007, 08:10 PM

The monster i am referring to is the trinity monster motor. Its 550 size and not 27t. Ok

JDT · #64 02-24-2007, 02:22 PM

To get your fdr you need to know your cars internal ratio, you get this by dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the pinion in the diff then you can plug the numbers in here

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm

the mashers are 4.9 inches tall, my internal ratio is 2.6:1, I use an 84 tooth spur and 15 tooth pinion for 14.56:1, gear wizard would indicate 15.39 is best for the mashers,
so I am a little low but with the mamba I think I am going to be okay, but once summer hits and its 100 degrees I may have to switch to a 14 tooth pinion which is 15:60 a touch high but may be required once summer hits and its 100 degrees outside.

EDS · #65 02-24-2007, 11:19 PM

Well after much calculating I came out with a fdr of 15.54 on a 14t pinion and 87t spur. my roll out .991... so does that mean its a good set up or not? You told me that i needed a fdr or 1:15 and its 15.54 and I have heard that a roll out needs to be less then 1. With a 15t pinion the fdr is 14.5 but the roll out is 1.062. Which I have heard would over heat my esc and motor.......... Peace Ethan

EDS · #66 02-25-2007, 11:50 PM

Went to the lhs today I got a 12t pinion and a 15t pinion. I have decided to try a 19t motor in a kr can its supposed to be pretty fast. I am also going to try a trinity monster max 17t motor. See how it goes and then if i need something more then I will save up for a lower turn motor. I also decided to go with a old novak esc that can handle up to 10 cells and has no motor limit.Oh yea they say you can tell if your over geared if the motor is too hot but how do you know your undergeared? Peace Ethan

JDT · #67 02-26-2007, 08:43 AM

the mashers would indicate 15.39 so 15.54 is fine, you could play around with the wizard and different spur sizes to get perfect but that would be ok in my book especially with the 19t, you will have good power and decent speed with six cells, try the trinity with eight cells, that should be pretty sweet, since you can make this deep of a gear you should be good for any motor you want down to 12 turns or so IMO.

EDS · #68 02-27-2007, 11:00 PM

Ok thanks I will try the 19t when I get it and see how it goes.My Tech teacher wants to see it run so it should be fun ripping it down the hallways at school lol. I will start out with the 19t runneing on 8 cells and see how thats goes. I was thinking though if I have that small of a pinion (12t) wouldn't I need a faster motor to make it go faster if the fdr is right? Seems like it would be under geared. What happens when the fdr goes up? Does this make it under geared? And when the fdr goes down its over geared? it was funny while I was at the hobby shop asking this guy about the formula and gear ratios he was like " I know there is a formula I just don't know it and I don't think anybody here does" (he was sitting right in front of a computer btw) Its like why should I even ask the LHS guys? Looking like I know more then some of them lol ANd they're to lazy to find it on the internet .lolPeace Ethan

Demon-TC3 · #69 02-28-2007, 05:13 AM

If you find the car is slow and the motor is warm (not hot) you can gear up...i personaly wouldnt change motor as 19Turn motors have allot more torque than mod motors...allot more...
Maybe if you got a good 17 or 16 turn and retarded the timing allot...dunno never had the problem myself.

JDT · #70 02-28-2007, 09:10 AM

With the proper gearing you would gain very little going from 19 to 17 unless you went from a $20 motor to a $60 motor but a $60 19t would feel stronger than the $20 one. I have always used the term overgeared when the fdr is greater than needed and undergeared when the fdr is less than needed but I have been corrected by at least one rc guy that thought it was opposite, most of my basher buddies are nitro lovers so they don't worry about it as much as we electric guys do so I guess I just always used the term the way I wanted, if this rig is just a basher and you know you will be runnig the mashers all the time you can experiment with going up on the pinion size until the motor starts to get hot, it will go across the grass and stuff better than the buggy ever did so you will need to remember to treat it like a nitro not more than 5 seconds full throttle to be safe as with a large backyard or area you may be able to run the car full throttle for the entire pack which get things way to hot. Unless its not fast enough for you should be fine, the 19t will run cooler than pretty much any other mod motor so you can get away with more gearing wise, I ran the mashers with only a 12.87 fdr and a 19t on seven cells but it was stinking burning hot at the end of a run so I would suggest you stay above 13. fdr for sure but I am far from an expert I have 7 or 8 motor cans sitting around without endbells which melted off to prove it lol.

EDS · #71 03-01-2007, 08:32 PM

I think its the other way around on the fdr. Cuase I was playing with the gear charts and as I geared down the fdr went up and as I geared up the fdr went down.I got the motor and esc today. The motor is a reedy quad mag 19t spec motor. I have heard its a good bashing 19t. The esc is a novak m5. I am working on wireing it all up and mounting it right now. Unfortunatly though I would be able to run it until I get the slipper back. Hopefully sometime next week.Peace Ethan

EDS · #72 03-05-2007, 01:29 AM

I am going to probaly mill out the chassis so I was wondering what you guys suggest I do with milling it out (designs ,shapes ,holes ,etc) So i can keep the strenth and stiffness. I might have a trick up my sleeve.....
Peace Ethan

JDT · #73 03-05-2007, 02:08 PM

you can get a cheap hole saw set at Harbor Freight for $6, it will have six or seven sizes to cut cirles into the chassis but this will sacrifice some stiffness and may end up eating spur gears if you get the chassis to flexy. Dremels are okay to cut with but hard to make look good, the hole saw is easy to make look good, just use your drill and you get a perfect circle every time from 3/4 inch up to like 2.5 inches around.

EDS · #74 03-05-2007, 05:27 PM

Yea idk I don't really like the look of circles.....I can cut it our of a scroll saw too.Peace Ethan

EDS · #75 03-07-2007, 09:48 PM

I am trying to work on the suspension and steering geometry. I don't know about it much. I know chamber,toe,etc but When I compress the suspension and stuff what am I shooting for to make it have good geometry? What makes good suspension geometry? Also how do I accomplish this? Same with steering right now when I turn it all the way to either side the inside wheel at a sharp angle and the outside wheel is not as sharp is this normal? If not how do I fix this? and what am I shooting for with steering geometry? Sorry about all the questions but any help would be great. Thanks Ethan