Tamiya TT-01/01R/01D Racing V4.0 - Page 11

BLPpoweredTRX · #**251** 04-30-2008, 09:56 AM

Anyone have a TT-01E yet?

szan · #**252** 05-04-2008, 04:51 AM

No, but new may models look fine !
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/new...ews1.htm#58407

Blaffert · #**253** 05-10-2008, 05:09 PM

Hi, I have a tt-01 and I read a forum on this site from a few years ago. Here's the link:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=140106
I didn't post there because it is a little inactive

But If you nose around you'll read about a 2 speed for the tamiya tt-01. He says you could be able to find it on Ebay. I'm interested in this, so can somebody help me to find some more things about it? Cause I don't know where to look anymore.
Thank you

Yaksaddle · #**254** 05-15-2008, 01:06 PM

SOrry just had to post after a night of frustration building a tt-01 with the yeah racing hop-ups - there is no support, or instructions for the Yeah Racing Stuff either in package or on their site.

The usual frustration of trying to get gearboxes to mesh up and not have the hinge pins or ball ends fall out. On top of that it appears I am missing some washers for the A-Arms which yeah racing is being pretty cool about in hooking me up with some new ones.

Not only that but the gear box front doesnt work with 3 Racing Carbon Fiber Chassis...minor complaint, I will just put it on another tt-01.

Damn drive cup keeps falling out as I try to maneuver the gear box, leading to what is now the 4th time I have had to take the gear box apart, if I keep screwing and unscrewing this gear box I may have the damn holes stripped before I actually get it put together.

Sorry just had to vent, still a bit frustrated at the slow, long, sodomizing experience of this build...

The TC3 build better go as smooth as butter or I may include a bottle of scotch to my build table...

pasan · #**255** 05-30-2008, 11:54 AM

What's the bare minium of upgrades i would need to go brushless with a tt-01? I've just finished assembling mine and I need more speed. After building my FLM Rustler, this thing is just too slpw.

Blaffert · #**256** 06-01-2008, 05:10 AM

Well, I'm working on my tt-01 to make it strong enough to put a brushless in. I am replacing many parts with alloy parts, carbonfiber and graphite, and ball bearings is a MUST. Also I would advice to give your car better handling, I've seen tt-01's wich you just can't control. But there are a few things you need to know if you want to upgrade your electric rc car.
First: Upgrade your battery charger. This is needed to get the most speed out of your battery, and to extend the life of the battery and all electric components of your car.
Second: Upgrade your battery. Choose a battery with less inner recistance, for maximum torque and top speed. Believe me, this can make a huge difference.
For Brushless, you are going to need an accu with a big capacity. I would advice a LiPo (Lithium Polynerum) battery, these allow a strong current and are able of having a huge capacity, but they're very expensive and pretty dangerous when overcharging. If you want to go for a cheaper battery, choose a NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydryde) battery. These also have a big capacity, are light and they do not give too much inner recistance.
Further you should match your accu. This means:
Take a new accu, load it and take a ride with it. After a while, the car will go slower. When that occurs, every time you turn around with the car, it will go slower. The best is to stop now. Remove the battery from the car and connect it to a ±33Ohm recistance and leave it for about a day long. If you will repeat this procedure a few times, after a while you'll notice this:
You're driving with your accu you treated with the earlyer called procedure. You have been driving for a while, but the car doesn't slow down because of an weak battery. Suddenly, the speed decreases heavily. A few seconds later, the car only slightly moves. The accu matched itself! Now you can just charge it normally.

Now, after you did these steps, your'e ready to upgrade your esc and motor (esc first), if you want that, take a brushless esc and motor.

Good luck and have fun!

pasan · #**257** 06-05-2008, 02:38 PM

Thanks for the advice. I've already got a few 3S packs that I take good care of for speed runs on my FLM rusterl. My sidewinder arrived today, and I built the car with ball bearings already. Unfortunately, I being the idiot I am ordered female plugs instead of male I have to wait till tomorrow to wire up the esc. In the mean time i'll hook up the mamba max from the FLM and try it out. I'm expecting smoking tires at the very least.

ElectricThunder · #**258** 08-01-2008, 03:24 AM

Anyone know if the DF-02 suspension arms, top diff cases w/ shock towers, and dogbones fit on the TT-01? I'm thinking of semi-converting my TT-01 to a buggy, since I rarely use it in its onroad form in the first place.

Thanks guys!

mailboxck · #**259** 08-03-2008, 08:40 AM

I just raced my TT01D, updated to TT01 E parts and my verdict is that the E parts does not give that much difference in racing.

Pros:
Better motor cover (no more motor mount slop)
Better steering posts (less steering slop)

Cons:
More screws to remove/install when changing a motor/pinion.

Ghostdunks · #**260** 08-12-2008, 11:29 PM

Hi guys! New to the forum, found this because I was looking for information on a new kit I was building, a TT01D RX-7! Looks like its going to be so much fun!

Got a quick question. I've seen that one of the main hopups for this is the prop shaft. I've seen references to alloy prop shafts and aluminum prop shafts. Are there any difference between the two or are the same thing?

mailboxck · #**261** 08-13-2008, 10:23 AM

It's just the same thing. Some people just want to call it something fancy

cheerwhiner · #**262** 08-16-2008, 06:48 AM

alloy is just short for aluminum.

ElectricThunder · #**263** 08-17-2008, 12:35 AM

Alloy is a mixture of metals technically (never heard it used as a shortened form of aluminum). I think it's a mislabeling or maybe the propshaft really is an alloy of aluminum and something else.

Drift Demon · #**264** 08-18-2008, 06:38 PM

I have a TT01 with the CF chassis & alot of alloy parts, so basically everything has been upgraded/hopped-up! Now, I see Tamiya have now bought out carbon damper stays for the TT01E. I would love to get these for my next upgrade.

Since its a normal TT01, can i just cut off the suspension tower from the diff cover for the cf damper stays to fit, or would i need to get the gear cover in the TT01E A parts?

The TT01 & TT01E diff covers have the same screw hole positions, its just that the 01E has a screw hole in between the 2 top screw holes. If i fit these cf damper stays to the normal TT01 diff cover, i may also need spacers to move the damper stay/dampers forward to allow the dampers to sit properly vertical.

If i get the diff cover from TT01E A parts, & since its being fitted to the 3Racing cf chassis, the screw holes at the bottom of the diff cover are different. instead of 3 screw holes horizontal, the cf chassis diff covers have 2 screw holes vertical, so, in order for me to fit the TT01E diff covers correctly, i will have to make an L plate mount that will allow me to properly secure the bottom of the diff covers. Sorry if it sound confusing, but i can take photos of the things im trying to explain.

So yeah, if anybody has any info on this problem/issue just LMK. thanks in advance...

mailboxck · #**265** 09-20-2008, 09:01 AM

Tamiya Porsche 911 GT3 shell on a TT01 Type E. Colored with the classic Rothmans Porsche 959 colors.

KREATOR1 · #**266** 01-12-2009, 07:41 PM

nice body you got there

bchymas · #**267** 01-27-2009, 02:53 PM

I just bought a used TT-01. I wanted to ditch the stock silver can for my Venom 19t but was dismayed to find out that it will not work. The Venom motor has slightly different dimensions than the stock motor and so the pinion and spur will not properly mesh. What's the deal with this car? Can you ever even use a different sized pinion other than what it came with? I'm very surprised by this problem because the TT-01 is such a popular car. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any ideas/solutions for me? Thanks.

CHROMETWANKS · #**268** 02-08-2009, 01:00 AM

I have an question what set of trf shocks i should get
and what item number should i pick

thanks for any help i can get on thi

g0202180 · #**269** 02-09-2009, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mailboxck

Tamiya Porsche 911 GT3 shell on a TT01 Type E. Colored with the classic Rothmans Porsche 959 colors.

nice shell there! love it!

Arachna · #**270** 02-13-2009, 02:35 PM

Well, I decided to join the TT-01 crowd, being a refugee from the M03 mini gang

So far I have enjoyed the car quite alot. The quirky handling of the Mini's is fun for sure, but it is nice to have something a bit more predictable. I picked up the TT-01e and am running in stock form aside from bearings and 3Racing shocks and a sport tuned motor looted off of one of my Mini's. I would like a bit more top end speed out of it, so I assume going to a 58 spur (running 61/20 now) would be a good start?

Kept the paint scheme simple as you can see, but am pleased with the results anyway.

tfedsdb · #**271** 05-06-2009, 04:09 AM

I have a TT-01. No bearings(i realise my mistake) I do have uni's, alloy prop shaft, YR turnbuckles (ditched them) and alloy steering arms and a motor heatsink. The reason i ditched the turnbuckles is that they would NOT hold. If i hit a pole, one of the adjustable buckles inside would pop out, leaving me with lots of toe in on that wheel. I sometimes run the tyres off my Chevy S-10 on it. Lots of fun.

ekka · #**272** 05-14-2009, 09:14 AM

hey all

Quick questions
I was looking at the front one way diff for a tt-01 and was wondering if it is possible to install the lh and rh sides back to front so the diff would free wheel under power and lock under brakes?
Instead of its normal operation of free wheeling under braking.

tfedsdb · #**273** 05-16-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ekka

hey all

Quick questions
I was looking at the front one way diff for a tt-01 and was wondering if it is possible to install the lh and rh sides back to front so the diff would free wheel under power and lock under brakes?
Instead of its normal operation of free wheeling under braking.

You won't be able to do that because inside the gearbox cover there is a little tab that stick out that stops you from "accidentally" installing the diff the wrong way round. If you think you can cut the tab off i say do it but it might be hard. I wouldn't know

tfedsdb · #**274** 05-16-2009, 10:17 PM

I was wondering whether this a good ESC:
http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/pr...0ef56c462b970f

It's cheap and yes i know its an australian website but i'm auzzie.

tfedsdb · #**275** 05-31-2009, 02:06 AM

Is this whole website dead. There is no activity in any of the Car, Truck forums.