My Model Y Gee Bee design effort previously covered in an earlier forum will be coming out in the April edition of M.A.N.. This is a first for me so don't mind my big head
The original forum was a work in progress showing many twist and turns as I worked out the design so it is a little hard to follow.
After the test flights I pulled all the changes together and finalised the plans along with changing just about every piece of the short kit that had been cut by Top Notch Products (TNP).
I purchase a proof kit from TNP which should arrive in the mail today. Its purpose is to support this thread and to also replace the original which has been hung in the Den of greats (Ok I am afraid I will crash it so I am building a second one to fly)
After talking with the Model Airplane News editor, Jerry Yarrish I decided to start this new forum showing the final methods used.
I thougt I would group the assemblies to show the basics of any contruction so that a new builder would not get lost. I hate to say it but the article is too short to be of help and as I am not a professional at this the plans can be a little vague also.
I would like to say from the get go that this is also a place for other builders to come and ask for clarification on my work. Any feed back on clarification of the plans or short kit will go onto the plans and back to the kit cutter.
I went back thru the plans and made a lot of changes based on the prototype along with changes that worked out well with earlier designs
Most of these were in the wing area where I tried to move all the parts into the short kit to make it easer of a beginner who may not have access to a local hobby shop still carrying building materiels
The plans are on two sheets, both on 3 x 5 foot paper.
Model airplane news will sell them thru thier plan service.
If you should go with the short kit from John Valentine at Top Notch you can ask that they be added to the short kit. If you have previously purchased them be sure to tell John not to include them.
As I do not have the new kit to start I thought I would start with the cowl ring and radial.
The model could be built with a Williams Bros Cyclone Radial as the model is 1/8th scale. But due to its high cost (Over 40.00) and my fear of crashing (Only three kinds of model airplanes, Those that are going to chrash, those that have crashed and those hung on the ceiling) As I have the engine I may make a mount for it and put it on the Prototype as It is retired.
The radial on the prototype was purchased from Dare Enterprises (Dare Design-Po Box 521, Cumberland Maryland, 21501, www.darehobby.com) with the concept that the cylinders are glued to the front and back of of the ring support (RS-1). I realised very early the plastic engine itself would not hold the ring in place on a nose over.
The plastic radial is cleaned up as a whole and the front section glued to the front of RS-1. The aft sections of the radial were cleaned up and glued individually to the back of RS-1.
One thing I did not do when I finished this part was to take a dremel and clean up the excess plywood from around the cylinders. It would greatly improve the looks.
The original plywood was drawn by simply laying the Dare Hobby radial on a scanner and importing it into AutoCAD to draw out the profile. I fudged a little to ensure there would be enough matereil should the radials have any variation
Later you will find you have to remove most of the radial gearbox to allow cooling air but not to worry as the nose bowl covers it up.
Kit arrived today but I did not get to spend about an hour on it. Wife took me to a sale to buy more clothes.
I thought I would slip it in here before I go to far.
John ships USPS priority mail so I would have had it thursday or in three days if the holiday had not gotten in the way. (Remember I live in Lester Alabama and there is no such thing as next day mail).
Cost was 115.00 which was higher than I was expectiing but it was a large increase in parts since the original. I added over 150 parts to the list. It turns out it is more of a kit than the usual shortkit with over 350 parts including the wingspars. With the cowl jig and everything but the 1/16 inch planking and stringers in the box it is pretty close to complete.
This assembly is flipped over and MG-5 and MG-6 are added using 1/4 inch dowls as alignment pins. ( Do not Glue them in at this point !!!!!!)
The dowls are removed and MG-7, the outer layer of the pant, is glued on to the stack.
This completes the half of the gear that will be glued to the completed wire main landing gear. With this assembly glued to the MLG (I used Goo Glue to bond it to the wire) the unmarked MG-4 is glued on sealing the wire internal
F-1 requires that you glue seven T-nuts to the back side using epoxy prior to gluing to the side frames.
F-1A and F-1B should be installed prior to putting the top and bottom of F-2 in place. (Ask me how I know) (This by the way were the parts that I had too many of on the sheet along with one wrong one that was the one I used)
When installing F-3T and F-6T it is important to keep them perpendicular as the will be the hatch line which is designed to be lifted off.
I will show my two mistakes here
On the fuselage sides I had forgotten to reposition the notches in the fuselage sides for the stabilizor mount. The notch in it will align with the tail later. On this one I just recut the notches as needed. Will get the changes to John tonight so anyone in the future should not see this.
F-6 was missing its ears which left a spot open aft of F-9. I will fill mine with scrap but have already made the drawing change to the cut order.