[jwaj2002]

ok I just bought this motor brand new, got it all mounted in the storm, went to break it in, for oh a quarter of the tank it idled fine, but very little white smoke, then it dies, so I fight it for over an hour to get it to start again, it starts, idles for about another 1/4 of the tank, and I check the temp (its idled between both starts about 10 minutes with an hour or so in between startups) its been running maybe 5 minutes, I checked the temp when I got it to run and idle 160, check it a few minutes later 220, shut it off, as the directions say break in temp is 190 max, let it cool, then start it up again, it idles fine for oh 5 minutes then throttles up, I run out temp check it 390, shut it off imediately, I turned my back for litterally 2 minutes to grab some water and the thing jumps 220 degrees ***?!

I've not made it through 3/4 of the first tank of break in and I'm afraid that I've f'ed this motor, what am I doing wrong?! its all factory settings I've even tripple checked them

[broncobill]

With the temp jumping that fast, it sounds like you may have an air leak. Check all your fuel lines, and make sure your fuel tank is closed all the way, and that there are no cracks. Also make sure your carb is not loose.

You are having a lean issue. Start with your fuel line from the exhaust pipe to the fuel tank. When you are starting out good, but then goes lean, your fuel tank may not be getting good pressure. Check these things and let us know what's going on. Good luck.

[ronestar]

As has been said, check for air leaks, and tighten everything up, and make sure everything is good. Also check your temp gauge

You said you set the needles back to factory settings, for break in, it's usually richer on the top end from stock. You might be trying to break it in on too lean a setting, you've mentioned that you're not getting a lot of white smoke off the pipe?

Try and rich up the top end needle by about one turn from stock then start the engine up. See if it idles, you want the engine to be running very rich at this point, with lots of smoke and even oil coming out the pipe.

I break in engines at above 200f and on the track, it's important to keep the temsp up even though the engine is rich. Anyway, I don't know how you intend to do your break in and am not going to go into which break in method is best, plenty of threads on that. lol

When idling it on a bench, you have to keep temps up without leaning the needle too much, this might be difficult depending on circumstances, weather etc. A few ways to to this is to just open the throttle to get more rpms and heat, or also insulating the engine head. You want the engine rich but also temps fairly high. DON'T lean the needle to get the temps up at this point.

I don't know how you plan to break it in, I usually don't idle it stationary, or if I do, only for the first tank - starting and stopping it a few times to get things seated, then I hit the track with it. I run about 10 tanks+ on the track, starting out fairly rich and gradually leaning it in, whilst keeping temps up. Then you can really start pushing the engine, it will take quite a few more runs after that before it hits peak performance =]

Best of Luck!

[jwaj2002]

I'm doing the first two tanks as the manual says, sitting on a bench, and there are no air leaks in the tank or the fuel lines, all are brand new and before connecting them and after I leak checked everything, I reset everything to factory settings after I saw it spike the last time, when it started to climb on the last time I started turning the needle out and richen it, I turned it out atleast 4 times and still no smoke, I'm gonna call them today and see *** is up cause this is ticking me off, this is why I got out of nitro the first time

so there are no leaks, and after trying to richen it up nothing happened it just got hotter, oh and I had the throttle shoved in all the way to where the carb was practically shut off

[terrible-t]

HAVE YOU BEEN MESSING WITH YOUR lsn? I'd turn it back CCW 1 full turn and procede with break-in. LSN should be the last adjustment done. HSN LET it run with a few blips and after temp cycle HSN to good acceration is good then idle speed, then LSN.

[jwaj2002]

nope, I've even checked to make sure the low, mid and high needles were at factory settings 3 times each, thinking maybe they got knocked out in transit, all are factory

[stonesavage]

Seal up carb/backplate with high temp silicone. Break in temps are fine in 200-230 range just make shure there's some oil coming out of the pipe and don't idle the engine that is old school just drive it right away for 5mins as the cool air will help keep temps down then let it cool at bdc.. I'm on 9 gallons with picco 26 still has good pinch

[terrible-t]

When engine dies, is there fuel in the line?? or when it dies fuel looks like it goes back to tank?? Do you have to reprime to start??Question we have to know.

[rccardude04]

If you can actually get an engine to almost 400 degrees at an idle, I applaud you. LOL

Seriously though, change the batteries in your temp gun. Also try the spit test and make sure it's actually that hot. Something sounds fishy.

-Eric

[jwaj2002]

ok, got with axial, they said to adjust the richness, low end and mid needles, and only do one tank sitting, and 3 rolling at no more then 30 percent throttle, well I did, the sitting was between 180 and 200 even, did my 3 tanks rolling temps between 120 and 150, I've started to tune it, right now with the idle needle at factory and about halfway back to factory lean I'm at 160 - 170, ditched the pull start went for the factory roto start

and the issue with the 300+ temps figured out it could easily have been that I was using too small of a fuel line (med/small line vs large) I bought some large diameter line today and the thing runs like a champ, now I gotta dial it in


oh and as far as the oil, after that first tank, I probably dumped a quarter tank of oil out of the pipe

[terrible-t]

When you tune the engine, oil will disapate when temp is higher, 250-270deg, or when it peaks. Leaning the mixture out idle rpm will rise, so turn down the idle speed to where ther tires dont spin. Temp gauge will tell you where you're at lower temp(rich), Highter temp (lean). Do not mess with the mid range needle at first. leave it alone if you're a rookie on break-in, leave it flush. HSN for smooth acceleration with out stalling, then idle speed. may have to do that several times. LSN is the last adjustment done. LSN turn CW if idle rises, too lean. Turn it CCW slowly till idle drops, then 16th of a turn to CW. blip the throttle, 1-2 seconds should drop to idle speed normally.

240-270 may be still rich for some. Just be aware 290 is up there 300+, playing for new engine or damage engine..

Temp only tells you where you're at. Tune at peak performance, the take a reading on temp. It'll be different on location & berometric readings, so it's up to you for peak performance.

Temp gauge is only a tool tell you rich or lean. Performance your goal, and temp will show the way to be safe. For me 240-270, other may be 250-280. Depend where you're at.

Good Luck!! Have Fun!!

[jwaj2002]

its dialed where I want it now, about 215-220 (which is a little more or less then 50 degrees cooler then where they say to have it) this thing gets serious air off little bumps in the dirt (2 inch bump = 1 foot in the air 3 or 4 feet long) I love this engine, the old engine to get it to run good it needed to be right at 300, give or take 5 degrees (thats where GS even said it needed to be just to be drivable)

[Killerush]

I have 3 of these engines and I run mine at about 230 degrees. That seems to be their sweet spot and they make great power. I have tried to run mine a little hotter but the power seems to fall off at around 250. Good luck!

[jwaj2002]

oh I love it, now I need to make some new motor mounts and get my new clutch springs/shoes in

[broncobill]

And videos. Glad it worked out for you.

[jwaj2002]

don't worry I'm workin on gettin the videos up