[barnell]

I just purchase an old Nitro RS4 Racer 2 or at lest that what I believe it is. The pull starter has a broken spring so I’m looking to replace it. What would you suggest I buy or what do I need to know to make the correct choice? Are pull starters interchangeable?

I’m planning on buying it online not LHS which make me worried about buying the right one. This is the only Nitro I have that has a pull starter too.

[atm92484_3]

Some pull starters are interchangeable - others are not.

What kind of engine is in the car?

[barnell]

The only marking on the engine is 15V or V15 something like that. I'm really not sure if it’s the stock engine or a replacement. If need be I can look to see if there is more information on the engine. The old pull starter also has a model number but I have no idea what the brand is.

[379]

Google the number and see what pops up.

[broncobill]

Or if you can post a picture of the engine.

[barnell]

Looks to be an old Duratrax Velocity V15 engine. I found a part number for the stock pull starter. I will have to see if I can find one or if anyone knows a good replacement.

When I cleaned the engine the piston had some build up. You think maybe I should just replace the engine? What would be a suitable replacement?

[cbaker65]

Originally Posted by barnell

Looks to be an old Duratrax Velocity V15 engine. I found a part number for the stock pull starter. I will have to see if I can find one or if anyone knows a good replacement.

When I cleaned the engine the piston had some build up. You think maybe I should just replace the engine? What would be a suitable replacement?

Go back with an Hpi,maybe a 3.0,if it will fit...

[379]

Some buildup is normal. If the engine runs well, I wouldn't sweat it.


As for a replacement, OS .18 CV-RX. I have one and I love it to death. It's more reliable than many full scale cars!

[broncobill]

Originally Posted by 379

Some buildup is normal. If the engine runs well, I wouldn't sweat it.


As for a replacement, OS .18 CV-RX. I have one and I love it to death. It's more reliable than many full scale cars!

X2. OS makes some of the most reliable and easy to tune engines out there.

[barnell]

I was told the car wasn’t running before I bought it. He said the engine would start but cut out on acceleration. I was thinking the engine might have just been tuned wrong. I haven’t had a chance to start it myself.

The OS .18 CV-RX looks like a good choice or maybe the NITRO STAR T3.0 ENGINE WITH PULLSTART. I have to look to see if they will fit. Maybe swing by the LHS some day.

I was also looking at the DuraTrax/SuperTigre G-27CX Pull Start Racing Engine it’s really cheap and about half the prices of the other two engines. I’m trying to save up some money for a Sprint 2 Drift Sport.

You think their will be any concern a more powerful engine could damage the gears or belt? How is HPI with interchangeable parts?

[broncobill]

Out of any of the engines you said, the OS is by far the best.
you buy a cheap engine, you get a cheap, hard to hold a tune, short lived engineThe last time I checked, you could get the CV-RX for around $100. This has to be one of the best bang for the buck.
Any time you increase power, you will increase the risk of damaging parts. That's all just part of the fun.

[cbaker65]

Yes,the os 18 cvr is the one you want,I was going to
sugest that one,but wasnt quite sure if it fits your
model,im not familure with that model,however Im
am with the os 18,an I absolutly love that engine,
I have one sitting waiting for a ride...
++1 on everyone here on that...

[379]

I would rather buy the OS. HPI makes a decent engine, but the OS is in another league. As for fit-and-finish, AFAIK The stock engine for that car is a standard crank, side exhaust, rotary carb smallblock.

Originally Posted by broncobill

Out of any of the engines you said, the OS is by far the best.
you buy a cheap engine, you get a cheap, hard to hold a tune, short lived engineThe last time I checked, you could get the CV-RX for around $100. This has to be one of the best bang for the buck.

I spent 109.99 on mine two years ago. Tower's now charging 150 for them, but I'm sure someone has one for less than that brand new.

[broncobill]

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-O-S-OS-11880...item19c28d992b

[barnell]

hmmm that is little more then I'm will to spend right now on an engine. Will see if I can get the old one running first.

If I try to rebuild and clean the old engine what replacement and spare parts should I get?
.

[379]

You get what you pay for lolz.



If you were to rebuild the old engine, you would need a piston, sleeve, gasket set, and connecting rod. Replace those parts and it will be as good as new. Oh, and you will need to break it in again.

[trugsta]

Originally Posted by barnell

hmmm that is little more then I'm will to spend right now on an engine. Will see if I can get the old one running first.

If I try to rebuild and clean the old engine what replacement and spare parts should I get?
.

Rebuilds are fun and great for learning.
If you choose to rebuild then you deffenetly want a Piston and sleeve and i usually redo the seals/O'rings in the carb also.

as for spairs Get some after run oil, some new air filters and filter goo and maybe a clutch kit.

[barnell]

I just order filters and I have filter goo. I have to look into the clutch kit. I have been using WD40 as after run oil works great on my Jato’s 3.3.

I found piston and sleeves for the engine but I’m going to wait to see if it runs first.

[379]

WD40 is absolutely useless as after-run oil. It's too thin and will just evaporate.

[trugsta]

Originally Posted by barnell

I just order filters and I have filter goo. I have to look into the clutch kit. I have been using WD40 as after run oil works great on my Jato’s 3.3.

I found piston and sleeves for the engine but I’m going to wait to see if it runs first.

Iv'e sometimes found the price of piston and liners can be quite expensive and have often gone with a new motor because its only a few dollars more so be sure to do your home work.

[atm92484_3]

Engine replacement parts are usually sold at or very close to retail while complete engines are sold at some percentage over cost (cost is usually around half of the retail price).

There are very few engines economically worth rebuilding aside from some of the high end race stuff. Most of the time you are better off getting something new.

[379]

Originally Posted by trugsta

Iv'e sometimes found the price of piston and liners can be quite expensive and have often gone with a new motor because its only a few dollars more so be sure to do your home work.

Originally Posted by atm92484_3

Engine replacement parts are usually sold at or very close to retail while complete engines are sold at some percentage over cost (cost is usually around half of the retail price).

There are very few engines economically worth rebuilding aside from some of the high end race stuff. Most of the time you are better off getting something new.

This is the logic I used when I replaced the stock engine in my CEN MT2. It snapped a crankshaft between the drive washer and flywheel, and the sleeve was pretty shot. To rebuild that engine was 110 bucks. To buy a brand new OS .18 CVRX was only 109.99.


'Twas a no brainer, really.


Now, the AE .15 that came in my NTC3 can be rebuilt for about 35 bucks, and those little things are good engines. So, providing I can actually get the sleeve out as some dingleberry before me overheated the motor so bad it's wedged in there, I can overhaul that thing for peanuts and have a spare engine laying around for my TC3. Or one I can do all sorts of wierd and ghetto experiments on.

[barnell]

It will cost about $55 to rebuild the engine and a new one is only $65. I see your point about just buying one (if I keep the same engine).