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  #1  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:53 PM
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Team Associated RC10TC6.2 Factory Team Kit



Latest from Team Associated:


The RC10TC6.2 Factory Team kit builds on the very successful R.O.A.R. and B.R.C.A. national championship-winning TC6 platform and adds many performance-enhancing upgrades which take the chassis to the next level of performance.

New for the TC6.2 is the updated bulkhead, top plate, and chassis configuration that allow flex to be optimized by disconnecting the drivetrain bulkheads and suspension mounting systems. This new arrangement allows a predictable flex through the entire length of chassis, giving maximum grip on any track surface. At only 88mm wide and 2.25mm thick, the new TC6.2 carbon fiber chassis remains very narrow, resulting in reduced drag during the hardest cornering.

The independent arm mount system features interchangeable toe inserts and pivot ball joints, allowing the racer to dial-in the suspension on an even more granular level. Optimized ballstud positions are connected with eyelet ball cups and blue titanium turnbuckles, adding up to an easier-to-tune platform with even more precise suspension adjustments than before.

The TC6.2 incorporates a new floating servo mount that not only improves steering control but also offers an increased area for mounting the ESC and receiver. The floating servo ties directly into a new dual bellcrank steering system with optimized Ackermann and steering speed.

The TC6.2 retains the H.D.R.C. (High Definition Roll Control) system. Roll stiffness is controlled and adjusted by the two wires that mount into the sides of an aluminum center member and link to the suspension arms. The aluminum center member rolls on a bearing surface to reduce friction and provides ultra-precise movement.

The lightweight rear gear differential provides maximum performance, adjustability, and low maintenance, while the front spool features replaceable composite outdrives with the performance of low-friction CVA blades to allow for free axle movement.

Factory Team VCS3 shocks feature hard-anodized threaded bodies with bottom-loaded seals. The VCS3 shocks are super smooth, featuring TiN-coated shock shafts and an increased stroke, all adding up to improved traction.

Rounded out with 22 precision ball bearings, Team Associated's TC6.2 has what it takes to keep you out in front and ahead of the pack in today's highly competitive touring car races.

This vehicle needs extra parts to make it operational. Click on the SPECS tab above to see what's already included and what extra equipment you may need to make the vehicle operational, such as motor and battery pack.

Features:
  • Updated bulkheads and arm mount system for precise suspension adjustments and consistent flex through the entire length of the chassis
  • Optimized dual bellcrank ball bearing steering system with adjustable Ackermann and improved steering rates
  • Floating servo mount fits most popular servo sizes and allows for a tweak free assembly with equal chassis flex in both directions
  • Narrow 2.25mm graphite laminate chassis provides optimized flex characteristics and minimizes possible dragging at maximum chassis roll angles
  • Floating spur gear mount design allows for more flex through the rear of chassis to increase traction in all conditions
  • Ball stud positions are optimized for fine adjustments of roll center and camber gain
  • Spur gear and top plate have been lowered to allow for more chassis flex and increased traction in any condition
  • Lightweight rear gear diff with hard anodized aluminum outdrives, and front spool with replaceable composite outdrives
  • VCS3 shock with hard anodized threaded shock bodies
  • Titanium turnbuckles with ballcup eyelets for easy access to ball stud
  • 22 precision ball bearings
  • Cross-compatibility with all TC6.1 suspension components

Specifications:

Power Source: Electric
Terrain: On-Road
Body Style: Touring Car
Scale Size: 1:10 Scale
Assembly Level: Kit*
Length: varies
Width: varies
Wheelbase: 255mm (10.04in)
Weight: varies
Internal
Gear Ratio: 2.0:1
Drive: 4WD

* This vehicle comes as a kit and must be fully assembled by the user. Electronics and/or an engine/motor may be required.

Required to Complete
  • 1:10 scale electric motor
  • 1:10 scale electronic speed control
  • 7.4V LiPo, 6.0V LiFe battery
  • Battery charger (suited for, and particular to, one of the batteries mentioned above)
  • 2-channel surface transmitter, and its batteries
  • 2-channel receiver
  • Steering servo
  • 1:10 scale (190mm) polycarbonate touring car body
  • Polycarbonate-specific spray paint for body
  • 1:10 scale rubber or foam touring car tires

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  #2  
Old 11-12-2013, 10:40 PM
kufman kufman is offline
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Are they going to sell a normal motor mount for that thing too? That setup is just plain bad.
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2013, 11:38 PM
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They lost me way back when they made the TC5. I'd rather stick with my TC3---I still love that car. As long as they keep making these belt-drives, I'm NOT interested---Sorry AE.
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman View Post
Are they going to sell a normal motor mount for that thing too? That setup is just plain bad.
Have you tested the mount to make that assessment? I'm sure AE did?
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2013, 03:36 PM
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Man, that motor mount is strange!

Kinda sorta seems like a cab forward touring body...odd side profile.

Nice looking chassis otherwise.
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  #6  
Old 11-13-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_School_RC_1 View Post
Man, that motor mount is strange!

Kinda sorta seems like a cab forward touring body...odd side profile.

Nice looking chassis otherwise.
The body is a pretty standard one, Protoform's LTC-R, & I'm sure it's only there for the photos, not likely to be part of the kit, I'll wager....
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman View Post
Are they going to sell a normal motor mount for that thing too? That setup is just plain bad.
There is nothing wrong with it. The 1/10th oval pan car racers have been mounting their motors like that for years.
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2013, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
There is nothing wrong with it. The 1/10th oval pan car racers have been mounting their motors like that for years.
Really? Last I looked Pan cars used two screws but they were opposite one another, not side by side. What pan car uses a mount like this?


Mount just doesn't look stable.
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2013, 07:06 PM
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It does look questionable to say the least... Puts more load on the threads. Be sure not to overtighten the screws!

Otherwise, I still wish we had onroad. I want an excuse to have one of these current-generation cars on the shelf with worn out outdrives.

-Eric
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  #10  
Old 11-17-2013, 08:04 PM
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Never had any problems with that style mount on my Xray T4. I've taken hard hits too.
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  #11  
Old 11-17-2013, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T3GT View Post
They lost me way back when they made the TC5. I'd rather stick with my TC3---I still love that car. As long as they keep making these belt-drives, I'm NOT interested---Sorry AE.

funny you should say that...I still race my PRO 4 with great results...
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  #12  
Old 11-17-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packhntr View Post
Really? Last I looked Pan cars used two screws but they were opposite one another, not side by side. What pan car uses a mount like this?


Mount just doesn't look stable.
Some modern pan cars have lower rear pods that only have bottom screws slots. Following is a picture of the right side pod plate from a McPappy McDominator (www.mcpappyracing.com). For older pan cars, if the slot is long enough, you can just use the two bottom screws out of the six in a Novak endbell (for example). This actually lowers the motor slightly compared to using two opposing screws. If you look at the endbell for a Trinity D3.5 (what you think of the motor is not relevant), (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCYAW&P=7) you will see that it has two screw holes next to each other for this kind of mounting.

This mounting would not be suitable for an off-road car, but for a car designed to run on a smooth flat surface, like a pan car or touring car, two screws next to each other works just fine.

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  #13  
Old 11-17-2013, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cnroman View Post
Have you tested the mount to make that assessment? I'm sure AE did?
I don't even need to test it, most of my motors will not fit since they do not use that mounting pattern.
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:51 AM
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Honestly, I wouldn't trust mounting my motor like that for nothing.
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  #15  
Old 11-18-2013, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman View Post
I don't even need to test it, most of my motors will not fit since they do not use that mounting pattern.

I agree....to go out and buy more motors in the same winds you already have just to be able to mount them?..laughable decision..
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  #16  
Old 11-18-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
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I agree....to go out and buy more motors in the same winds you already have just to be able to mount them?..laughable decision..
What competition motors don't have 6 mounting holes?

-Eric
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  #17  
Old 11-18-2013, 07:45 PM
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apparently Kufmans..
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2013, 12:17 PM
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I have several older brushless motors that don't use that pattern (Lehner, Hacker, Plettenburg, Aveox) and all of my brushed stuff. It is just plain dumb. Touring cars take a LOT more abuse than 1/12th so using the design of one on the other really doesn't work.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2013, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman View Post
I have several older brushless motors that don't use that pattern (Lehner, Hacker, Plettenburg, Aveox) and all of my brushed stuff. It is just plain dumb. Touring cars take a LOT more abuse than 1/12th so using the design of one on the other really doesn't work.
A car of this level of price and construction is not deisgned for bashing, it is designed for competition. Most sanctioned races will require ROAR approved motors and none of the ones you mentioned (that don't have tha bolt pattern suitable for this car) are motors that would be legal for the type of racing this car is meant for.

So you are complaining that the bolt pattern of your non-legal motors won't let you install them in this car. That sounds like a good thing. Saves you buying a car you couldn't enter in a race anyway.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
A car of this level of price and construction is not deisgned for bashing, it is designed for competition. Most sanctioned races will require ROAR approved motors and none of the ones you mentioned (that don't have tha bolt pattern suitable for this car) are motors that would be legal for the type of racing this car is meant for.

So you are complaining that the bolt pattern of your non-legal motors won't let you install them in this car. That sounds like a good thing. Saves you buying a car you couldn't enter in a race anyway.
I don't bash my sedans, but some of the hits they take on a track can be quite brutal. You shouldn't come away with a bent motor mount in the event of a tangle with a track barrier. Even the best drivers hit them when trying to push the limits of tight, fast lines.

True, none of the motors are ROAR legal (read as, they are better than ROAR crap) but then again none of the tracks in the area care. Even for motors that do fit, this is a poor design choice.
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  #21  
Old 11-21-2013, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman View Post
I don't bash my sedans, but some of the hits they take on a track can be quite brutal. You shouldn't come away with a bent motor mount in the event of a tangle with a track barrier. Even the best drivers hit them when trying to push the limits of tight, fast lines.

True, none of the motors are ROAR legal (read as, they are better than ROAR crap) but then again none of the tracks in the area care. Even for motors that do fit, this is a poor design choice.
I can back that up. I have been running my Hacker C40 motor for 12 years, still as good as the day I got it. Not everyone runs generic US regulation motors. Like those of us not in the US for a start.
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2013, 09:33 PM
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The only hacker motor I've seen for competition had 6 holes I'm pretty sure. It's been a few years but it seems like they all have the holes.

If it's not a competition motor, why are you buying this car?

As for being outside the US, I can understand that but I thought the ROAR specs were nearly a global standard at this point as far as motors are concerned?

As far as the brushed motors ... really? People still complain about brushed motors? That's like me complaining that my original Playstation controller isn't good enough for the Playstation 4, or being pissed that my memory cards from Jet Moto won't work any more. If you're this serious about competing, it's time to buy a new motor. If you are this serious and still think you're slow because of the car ... I'd take a look at the electronics package.

-Eric

Last edited by rccardude04; 11-21-2013 at 09:39 PM.
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  #23  
Old 11-21-2013, 10:09 PM
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Yes, some people still run brushed spec classes using can 540 motors.

They are competition motors for 99% of the races around the country. Why would I go out and buy a motor that is slower, heavier, and less efficient than the one I bought 10 years ago?
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2013, 10:32 PM
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2013, 11:37 PM
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99% of the races? I must be in the 1% then. I've seen maybe one brushed motor in all the electric racing I've done in the last 5 years or so. Maybe the tracks I've been to are just crazy high-end.

Granted, it's been almost entirely offroad but I can't see the high end onroad stuff being any different.

And how do you figure they're "less efficient" than what is 10 years old? Having used both extensively, the new stuff runs cooler and much longer per mAh than anything in the past of comparable performance could have ever dreamed to.

Again, you're spending $450 on a kit but refuse to spend $90 on a new motor or $200 on a new ESC? Really?

I can only assume 99% of the country's racers are running NiCds that are 8 years old and worrying about dead shorting and peak detection thresholds also.

-Eric
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