[Ethereal_Dragon]

I got my truck used, and didn't get the manual with it... And also, I finally finished reading all 41 pages of this thread. WHEW! Lots of information.... it's funny, because now that I have already spent some money on my Rush, I could have just bought a brand new EVO RTR for less than it will cost to get my truck running again..... cause I still have to buy:

Steering servo
Aluminum A-arms (front & rear)
Rear graphite shock tower
rear aluminum chassis brace
threaded shocks (front & rear)
fuel tank
fuel filter
fuel lines
engine
header
probably a new exhaust too
differential



Also, I saw someone mention that the stock screws are weak points in the suspension... Was this referring to the screws that hold the fron A-arms to the chassis? because mine bent BADLY in "The Accident".. Would these be the stronger replacements?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMX90&P=7

[Tucker01]

Yes, they are way stonger, we've yet to bend one of those. You can just replace the front inboard pins with the HPI 3mm x 42mm stainless steel pins bought seperately.

[Radio Acer]

yeah, those hinge pins are amazing, just have a dremel nearby. when i installed mine then some of the hinge pins were a tight fit. Just put the hinge pin into the dremel and work it back and forth in the plastic at no more than 1,000 RPM. make sure the plastic doesn't get too hot either. My suspension was a wonder after i put those in.

[aaandht]

I just got a OS .18 CV-RX engine for my truck and I wanted to get new gears for it. I was thinking about 16/52 or so, but what spur gear can I put on it? My LHS said they only make a 56T for it.

[Radio Acer]

your LHS is right.

[Tucker01]

The Savage spur gears fit should you feel that way inclined.

When HPI put the .18SS in the NMT they used a 15T clutchbell (originally 13T). I think it safe to say with the lighter Rush (both weight and geartrain friction) you could go up to a 16T with the stock spur.

Hope that helps.

[aaandht]

Actually, could I use it with out the slipper? I dont really do jumps....*shrugs* but I'm ordering a 16 or so tooth clutch bell

[Tucker01]

If you feel you don't need the slipper, just tighten it up until it doesn't slip (don't crank it down so much that the spring coils touch each other though, that's too tight). With is set like this is won't slip during normal usgae, but might just save the day (and your gearbox) if something goes wrong.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I am hoping to be receiving my graphite upper chassis, and graphite shock tower (don't remember if it was a front or rear... and can't get to ebay from work) sometime this week. I am also going to order the aluminum rear chassis brace soon. Do any of you know if there is a strong replacement (aluminum or grahpite for the plastic piece that connects the rear brace to the rear shock tower? I haven't seen any and was just wondering... also, does anyone make an aluminum exhaust mount to replace the stock plastic one?

[Radio Acer]

That plastic part behind the brace doesn't need to be stronger, so there is no replacement.
The only other exhaust mount there is, is a wire that goes from the chassis to the pipe, nothing fancy there, it doesn't need to be and it's not a good idea to have aluminum there. If you bang your pipe against something, then the wire will absorb the impact and bend, therefore saving your pipe. I used to have HPI's pipe retainer wire thing, but it broke easily instead of bending. MY dad found this wierd spring clip thing in a hardware store (Home Depot, I think) and we just cut off a small paice of the wire and bent it using pliers. It took a long time but it was worth it. The wire is about half the diameter of HPI's so it bends pretty far back, farther than it will ever have to, yet it's really stiff and keep the pipe in place when it's supposed to be.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

ok for the part that the brace mounts to.. I just wasn't sure if that was replaced if it would have any effect on the ridgity of the chassis.. as for the exhaust mount, I meant that little piece of plastic that the wire attaches to... I know there is no point to getting aluminum, just wondering if anyone offers one.

[Tucker01]

Racers Edge do a nice tuned pipe mount. Purple anodised base (obviously, any other colour would upset the handling!) and thick wire with a sprung section. Works a treat.

[Logan100]

whats up fellas? well chose a motor.. I got an O.S. .12TR. it has a slide carb on it, so I have to make a linkage for it. the LHS says they have something that will work, but im still waiting on my new clutch, flywheel,bell,mounts. should be in next week or the one after. Also picked up my new transmitter (JR XS3 pro). thing is so sweet, still need to install servos and rec. man the rec is so tiny its mint. once my parts come in Ive got alot of wrenching to do, whole truck needs to come apart, well almost lol.
Also I had to pick-up titanium screws for the rear suspention mounts, seems that with the aluminum thats where the shock load transfers and its hell on steel screws. I hope that works but if not Im gonna drill and tap 2 more screws in each side, ordered tap yesterday. anyways give me 2 weeks and ill post pics with everything and i mean everything finished. Hope it will be good enough for your web site tucker.
L8

[Tucker01]

Sounds good, look forward to seeing it when you're done. You know HPI do a slide carb linkage kit, can'r remember the part no. sorry.

[MrNyceGuy42]

Hello all,
Recently got an evo and love it. question: I ran it wide open for the first time and slammed into a wall snapping the rubber collar that holds the pipe to the header and snapped a diff shaft cup in half. Can the rear shaft be replaced with cvds or is just for the front? what are some of the benefits of these and how can I sure up the rear so that I can tr to prevent breaking this shaft again. ( outside of learning to drive better)

[Tucker01]

Hi Mr. Nyce, welcome to this thread.

OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. They replace the dogdone and the wheel axle shaft.

Generally you'll find it's sound advice not to use your RC vehicle within 100 yds of anything hard. Sod's Law says if you do you'll find it, normally at 40mph. It's vitually impossible (not to mention highly impractical) to build a car to take impact such as that.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

My graphite shock tower, upper deck, and Hitech 625 servo should be arriving any day... unfortunatly, my truck is taken apart... COMPLETLY APART... I am not going to be able to put it back together for a while, because I am movin on Friday, and I am NO WHERE NEAR ready to move, such as being packed and everything...

Then, after that, I am not going to have too much money, cause I am getting Lasik eye surgery on March 11th (gotta have the good sight to drive the Rush, right? ) and that is $$$$... I am hoping that my tax return will cover the surgery and some of the Rush parts.... Unless I deceide to get the surgery, and new suspension and wheels for my Scion xB.

[MrNyceGuy42]

[OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. ]

Yes I broke a cup... has anyone replaced standard diff with ball diff and how sturdy was it? So a CVD goes inside of that cup right. Are these more sturdy than standard dogbones.


Oh and I am looking to maybe start a off road club for the north raleigh/triangle area if anyone is interested please let me know and maybe this spring we can get things rolling. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to the hobbie but am ready to see how I stack up against others.

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

Originally Posted by MrNyceGuy42

[OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. ]

Yes I broke a cup... has anyone replaced standard diff with ball diff and how sturdy was it? So a CVD goes inside of that cup right. Are these more sturdy than standard dogbones.


Oh and I am looking to maybe start a off road club for the north raleigh/triangle area if anyone is interested please let me know and maybe this spring we can get things rolling. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to the hobbie but am ready to see how I stack up against others.

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Tucker01]

A889 Slide Carb Linkage Kit

I'd say a 645MG servo is way too slow for steering use, it's slower than a standard servo even.

Thought I'd found all the pics on Beat Your Truck! Hmmm, have to take another look.

[MrNyceGuy42]

Here is a pic of my new Evo

[MrNyceGuy42]

And without the body