Losi XX4 Forum - Page 11

Luckyman4 · #**251** 01-15-2003, 11:38 AM

Yeah, I think you're right ... just one of those things, but always painful when it happens in the Main!

You'd think with all the titanium stuff out there that someone would make pins too ... but perhaps it's better that they do shear off rather than transferring the stress to other more expensive (& harder to get to) parts. I might experiment with cutting some piano wire from the LHS down to size ... then again I'm pretty lazy too, I'll likely just make sure I have a good stock of pins on hand and replace routinely before any big races.

Speaking of 'big races', I'm going to one in a couple of weeks, the Missouri State Champs in Chillicothe, Jan 24-26. It's a very nice facility, but VERY different from what I drive on at our club track.

http://www.nmr-c.com/

We should have a ton of Region 8 racers there, even though it's not an official ROAR event (that's usually in August). Wish me luck, I'll need it!

Casper · #**252** 01-15-2003, 11:55 AM

That looks like a great track. I would try losi pink tires on a track that looks like that. Tracks like that is where they work the best. Drive pins are actually roll pins. If you look at them closely they are actually VERY thin sheet spring steel rolled up. The benefit to this is they press fit into the hole and stay put. If you just used piano wire you would loose the pins everytime you took the tires off. Just something to think about if you want to come up with a new drive pin for your cars.

Luckyman4 · #**253** 01-17-2003, 05:41 PM

Right you are! I think I'll stick with the roll pins a while longer, the engineers probably know better than I on that score, and I'm concerned that worse damage may happen to the diffs or outdrives if I go to hardened steel solid pin ... unless they start popping all the time (which they shouldn't), then I'll reconsider. Thanks!!

Luckyman4 · #**254** 01-22-2003, 01:27 PM

Casper et al,

Q: where/how do you mount a transponder on your XX-4? Track rules say it must be inside the body, but it's kinda cramped in there ... homemade brace or whats your solution? LMK, thanks!

-John

Casper · #**255** 01-22-2003, 01:36 PM

I always mounted my transponder in the left window of the body near the back of the windown. Some others mounted it in the roof of the body. If you have the WE chassis and run your battery in the front you can mount the transponder with a custom mount behind the battery in the rear of the chassis. I hope this helps.

Luckyman4 · #**256** 01-22-2003, 03:27 PM

Thanks Casper, I'll probably use the side window, but that reminds me of another question for ya' ...

RE: the Worlds chassis and forward battery mounting position, when I put my batts in the forward position the battery hold-down thingy only covers the rearward two cells ... the mounting post only has one location, does that actually work, or do I need an "long" style hold-down ... I can't figure out how it supposed to stay in firmly in the forward location. Is the front most battery just left uncovered? What am I missing? Got any tips?

Casper · #**257** 01-22-2003, 03:53 PM

From what I remember Kinwald glued the battery insert in the battery hold down in a forward position. Does that make any sense? I am not sure if the WE kit came with new battery hold downs or not but the original hold downs needed a 1/4 in thick plastic plate to be glued to them to hold the batteries down in the lowered chassis. They just glued that plate in offset to hold the batteries secure. I do not think that cell unsupported would not hurt anything though. The battery is not going anywhere unless the battery bar breaks!

Luckyman4 · #**258** 01-22-2003, 04:18 PM

Hmmm ... sounds like permission to be creative, lol! I'll figure something out, thanks!

Casper · #**259** 01-22-2003, 04:35 PM

Yes that is the case. This is a do it yourself type modification to secure the battery in the all they way fwd position.

Luckyman4 · #**260** 01-22-2003, 04:44 PM

Okay, I can work with that. Funny though that Losi would make a whole new chassis and then not redesign the battery hold down to go with it ... the R&D dept. must have "Gone Racin' " after they finished the chassis work.

Casper · #**261** 01-22-2003, 05:22 PM

Here is a picture of the battery plate glued fwd. This is what they decieded to do for this battery position. It works but you will need a new set of battery hold downs to make it work!

Luckyman4 · #**262** 01-22-2003, 05:35 PM

Talk about a picture being worth a thousand words .... "Oh, now I get it!" BIG thank U!!!

Do you run yours with the battery forward? Which do you prefer, or run most often - batt forward or batt back?

Casper · #**263** 01-22-2003, 05:52 PM

I did not have the WE edition chassis on my 4wd. I only had the orginal cut chassis which only had the 6 slots. I always ran it that way because of that so I do not know how the car will handle with the battery fully forward. I would try it and see how you like the balance. It should give you some more steering.

Maxxcrazy · #**264** 02-16-2003, 08:28 PM

woot i just bought a worlds on ebay for 150. I'm so excited

Luckyman4 · #**265** 02-17-2003, 10:09 AM

Maxxcrazy,

Congrats on your new World's Ed.! Some great info in this thread, be sure to see Casper's links/tips - the url is pasted below - GREAT stuff on setup and mods. I got my WE off ebay too ... I think it's definitely beefier/stronger than the XXX-4 (at least in stock form), though not as easy to work on as the xxx-4. Keep us posted!

-John

http://home.att.net/~casper04/

go to Tips & Tricks then XX4

Maxxcrazy · #**266** 02-17-2003, 10:53 AM

thanks Luckyman. Ive been there before and its very help ful. as soon as i get it i'll be racing

Gmanlusk2004 · #**267** 02-17-2003, 10:34 PM

I just received a xx-4 WE in a trade for my B3. This buggy is awesome. It has all titanium linkages, the outdrive cups, and a custom painted body that is just like the losi bodies. The guy claims that he knows gil losi and mike reedy. He said he used to live by them. He also says that he knows masami hirosoka or whatever his name is. I believe him, he knows what he is talking about. but this car is cool... i can't post a pic here 'cause the file is too large. but there is a pic on my site. check it out.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...63514545bImOpv

L8r,
Garrett

Maxxcrazy · #**268** 02-19-2003, 05:31 PM

what hop ups do you guys recomend? how are the penguin front shock tower braces, the trinity front and rear aluminum braces?

MagicD · #**269** 02-19-2003, 05:48 PM

Gmanlusk2004,

I took a look through your gallery, that's a good looking xx4 you got there.

I also ran across a pic of the new Mitsubishi Evo8...mark my words, in 1 1/2 years time, that baby will be mine...oh yes, it will be mine!

Gmanlusk2004 · #**270** 02-19-2003, 10:57 PM

thanks magic. You like those pix? those are from the Houston Auto Show. I like the ferrari enzo a lot, but that 97 tahoe that is lifted is pretty badass too. I got a lot more pix and i might make a rc specific gallery and a real car specific gallery. If any of yall want your pix posted on my gallery send em to me at goldglovegarrett@aol.com

L8r,
Garrett

shadmaster4 · #**271** 02-21-2003, 09:10 AM

Hey, I just got a XX4 from Momosport...It is great, i got it yesterday, and I am cleaning it now....I noticed one thing, the screw that holds the motor plate in, nearest to the front, is stripped on the top. (momo, I don't wanna trade back, but if this cannot be fixed, than sorry, we will have to trade back). Do you know what screw I am talking about? It is a very small hex screw. How can I take it off, so I can put a motor in? Does anyone have a manual for this buggy, that is either scanned in or online? IF you do, e-mail it to me at zackshelp@nc.rr.com . So, this buggy, looks really cool, but I want to run it. If you can help me out or tell me how I can get this screw out, or somehow put a motor in, without taking the clamp off, please tell me....Thanks- Zack

Casper · #**272** 02-21-2003, 11:04 AM

The head of the screw is stripped or the threads the screw is in is stripped? It seems to me you are saying the screw head is stripped since you cannot get the motor out. You might be able to break the screw loose with some pliers since this is a cap head screw. Try using a really good 3/32 wrench to see if it can get a good bite. The bondus or the "L" wrenches are not the best tools. IF all else fails you can use a thin cuttoff wheel on a demel and slot the head of the screw and use a flat head screw driver to get the screw out. This is the only way to get the motor of of this car. You cannot get to the motor mounting screws any other way.

shadmaster4 · #**273** 02-21-2003, 11:56 AM

Hey, the screw head is stripped....I tried a bunch of the "L" wrenches and none worked....I finaly found one that worked good, it was one for a socket wrench.....Anyways, i got it in....Is this car slow, or it seems slow.......I put my Trinity Stock motor in it, and it was sooooo slowwww. In my 2wd truck it is a lot faster, and in my 4wd touring car, it is 10 times faster, I wonder if I have the wrong pinion....I took the pinion out of my ta03f, and put it in..I think it has 16 teeth, and i think I have the stock spur in. I have a 84t spur also....What size pinion should I use? Thanks- Zack

Casper · #**274** 02-21-2003, 12:15 PM

Unless you put 48 pitch gears in your tamiya car you are using the wrong pitch gear. The tamiya cars run a metric pitch gear. This may be some of your problem. Also this is not a car that runs really strong in stock. It should not be really slow but the 3 best system is not real effiecient for stock racing. I never ran stock in my XX4 but a good starting point would be a 21T gear. Make sure it is 48 pitch though.

shadmaster4 · #**275** 02-21-2003, 01:12 PM

yeah, that was just a extra motor i had....I also have a orion rush 15x2.. I will give that a try