| Nitro Vehicles Discussion related to Nitro On-Road and Off-Road Vehicles |
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10-01-2005, 04:03 PM
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10-01-2005, 05:03 PM
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I see... that looks like it would keep the wing from wobbling as it does with the regular body clips but also not fly off as the E-clips do in a crash...
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10-01-2005, 07:19 PM
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Just use some o-rings to stabilize any wing wobble if you have any.
Or if you don't have locking pins, take regular ones and ziptie the end together.
Last edited by mwahaha91; 10-01-2005 at 09:41 PM.
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10-05-2005, 07:51 PM
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10-16-2005, 01:07 PM
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Overheating
Ever since i've had my storm it runs too hot after about 10 minutes.does anyone have any ideas.
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10-16-2005, 10:08 PM
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Can anybody post some pics of their GS Storm. I'm thinking of getting the pro model, but I need pics. I will pay somebody $10 to put up pics. I will send $10 to your paypal. I am sick of buying stuff sight unseen. I want pics with the body on of the left, right side, front, back, front left diagonal, front right diagonal.
Thanks, Kevin
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10-30-2005, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by knucklebusta
Can anybody post some pics of their GS Storm. I'm thinking of getting the pro model, but I need pics. I will pay somebody $10 to put up pics. I will send $10 to your paypal. I am sick of buying stuff sight unseen. I want pics with the body on of the left, right side, front, back, front left diagonal, front right diagonal.
Thanks, Kevin
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Do you still need pics? I just happen to have several pics of mine.
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11-03-2005, 12:47 AM
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I have a storm buggy and am having one small problem with the left front drive axle/CVD pivot where it is in the hub. (The nice spinny ball type thingy inside of the silver hub carrier) There is a pin in there that is supposed to stay centered so that it can spin freely. Well mine keeps sliding out locking the wheel up. (It can rotate back and forth about 180 degrees untill the pin catches in the hub carrier.)
I think I explained it ok. I would like help ASAP as I may have a buyer lined up and this is the only problem that I am having.
Thanks,
Dan
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11-03-2005, 01:12 AM
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Here... to make it easier:
The drive shaft that goes in here:
This piece:
That pin that you see on the portion of the pivot is the one that keeps sliding out. Do I need new driveshafts?? I really don't want to drop anouther $35-$40 to sell the car for about $250...
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11-03-2005, 06:37 AM
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You could try removing the grub screw and locktiting it again, but it's hard to say whether that will take care of it. Probably, but not guaranteed. Some people put shrink tubing round the outside of the portion of the socket as well, with the idea that it will help retain the pin.
Also, you don't have to pay that much for replacement CVDs, you can get Dynamite direct replacements for $19.99 here: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=510 No pictures available at the moment, but I can get you one.
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11-19-2005, 12:57 PM
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instruction manual
whats up guys i am in desperate need of an instruction manual for the storm if anyone has one they dont need or can make a copy of one or anything i would gladly pay shipping if anyone can help thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!!11
smky213@msn.com
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11-19-2005, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by smoky
whats up guys i am in desperate need of an instruction manual for the storm if anyone has one they dont need or can make a copy of one or anything i would gladly pay shipping if anyone can help thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!!11
smky213@msn.com
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Sent ya an email.
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11-19-2005, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by t9dragon
Sent ya an email.
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never got an email sorry. ya sure ya sent it right its smky213@MSN.COM
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11-19-2005, 11:52 PM
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You can download it also.
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11-20-2005, 12:09 AM
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I resent the email did you get it?
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11-20-2005, 09:54 AM
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where can i download it from
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11-20-2005, 10:25 AM
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Here's the link for you......... http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/dow...torm%20RTR.pdf
I hope that helps. If you can't get it, let me know and I'll see if I can find one of my extra copies. Also, you can go to GS Racing and download the SUT race manual. Even if you don't convert to the SUT, it has a lot of good hints as to how to make certain things on your car work better.
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11-26-2005, 11:23 AM
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Hello,
My Storm is 4 Days old today. Haven't run it on road. Still bussy setting it up and getting it ready. Awsome CAR! Anyone know where to buy the upgrade parts?
Thanks
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11-26-2005, 11:49 AM
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www.smfstore.com has some here: http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=69_34 and will be adding a few more in the next few days (Storm Pro front shock tower, GS rear universals, and Dynamite lower arm holders and front upper arm holder).
You can also find Storm parts at Stormer Hobbies, last time I checked.
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11-26-2005, 01:13 PM
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rear exhaust
i saw a rear exhaust system on ebay and it looked really cool. o was wondering if anyone has any exp with these or any opinionson them. if you do let me know right now i run a cvec pipe. with the stock engine.
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11-26-2005, 07:00 PM
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I have the Option Team shock towers that I will sell for $20 plus shipping. I paid $60 for them then almost immediately converted it to the Truggy.
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11-30-2005, 01:31 AM
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bumpy track setup sheets?
Anyone know where I could find a bumpy track set-up sheet for the storm Pro?
or any good set up sheets for the Pro?
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11-30-2005, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by cableguy69
Anyone know where I could find a bumpy track set-up sheet for the storm Pro?
or any good set up sheets for the Pro?
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Here is a link to some downloads available from GS
http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp?pgs=downloads
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11-30-2005, 10:31 AM
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Guys, I could use some help here…
Some three months ago I bought a Storm from a guy I know. He’s the man who taught me to fly RC-Airplanes, so when he offered me the Storm, I trusted him. It used to belong to his son, but apparently he lost interest in it. Well, his loss, my gain – the car was dirt cheap and tricked out. New servos, new radio gear and the biggest engine that could be shoehorned into the car (a R25MT engine he said).
So, I took it home, bought some fuel and headed to the nearest football field. And that’s when the trouble began…
It took me half an hour tugging that *bib* pullstart before the engine finally roared to life. And man, what a life! The car runs faster than a rocket! Well, perhaps not, but on a small field, it sure felt that way. Anyway, after five minutes or so, I stopped the car to check if everything was ok. After all, it had been a while since it had run last. I looked the car over, was satisfied with what I saw, put it down, and tugged the pullstart. Nothing. Tugged again. Still nothing. Tugged a third time. The pullstart refused to recoil into its housing. Swearing profoundly, I wowed never to use a pullstart again and made a mental note to visit my local hobby-shop looking for a shaft start.
Fast forward nearly three months. I’ve been very busy, so I haven’t had a chance to look at it. Deciding that I wanted to run the car at least once before we got a heavy snowfall, I took the day off and worked like a madman to get the shaft starter installed.
Several hours later, the shaft start was finally installed. So, fuel in the tank, battery in the starter, and I was ready.
Inserted the shaft into the rear of the engine, placed a thumb over the exhaust, and gave the starter a few blibs to prime the engine. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. Looking suspiciously at the car, I removed the fuel line from the carb to check if there really wasn’t any fuel or if I was simply going blind. Well, thankfully for me, it was the former. Hmm, why was there no fuel going to the carb? Inserted the starter and tried again. Nothing. Hmmm, this was getting annoying. Tried a third time. Still nothing.
Ok, so, what can prevent fuel from flowing to the carb? No fuel in the tank? Naah, just filled it to the brim. A kink in the fuel line? No way, the fuel line runs smoothly from the tank to the engine. No compression in the engine then? Hmm, I hope not. Took the shaft out of the starter, placed my thump over the exhaust and slowly turned the engine over…
Put… put… put… put…
Where the *bib* did that sound come from?
Checked the coupling between the exhaust and the engine. That was as tight as the spring can hold it. Checked the glowplug. Seemed ok. Changed it just to be sure.
Ok, third time lucky. Shaft into the engine, thumb over the exhaust, and a few blibs on the starter. Nothing. Absolutely nothing.
What the *bib*?
At this point in time, my patience was wearing rather thin. Ok, what to do. Hmm, how about priming the engine manually? So, disconnected the pressure line from the exhaust and blew into it. That did the trick! Fuel was flowing into the carb. Ok, so far, so good, reattach pressure line to the exhaust, insert shaft, insert igniter and engage the starter.
Put… put... puuuuut… brrrrrr… brrrrrrr… brrrrrrrr!
Yes, now we’re talking, the engine turned over and roared to life. Finally! Gave a few blibs on the throttle to bring the engine revs up, removed the igniter and the starter.
Brrrrr…. rrr… … …
Huh?
Hmm, must have removed the igniter to early. Not enough revs to keep the engine running… Inserted igniter and starter again…
Brrrr… brrrrrrrrrr… brrrrrrrrrrr!
Lifted the car from the table and gave it full throttle…
BRRRrrrrr… BRRRrrrrr… BRrrrrrr… rrrr…
Hmm, that doesn’t sound like full throttle to me. And sure enough, the moment I removed the starter, the engine died…
So, that’s the status of my car. It won’t prime and it won’t run on its own. And there’s still that annoying put put sound when I turn the engine over. It’s as if there’s no real compression in the engine. But why?
Last edited by f2k; 11-30-2005 at 10:38 AM.
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11-30-2005, 11:18 AM
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I would replace the fuel lines. Sounds like you might have a tiny hole in one of them. I would replace the glow plug with a brand new one.
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