[tamiyadude]

Several guys have put the jugg hard body on the Pajero... They've had to cut down the bed to make it the right wheelbase. King Blackfoot body is good to go wheelbase wise, just needs body mounts.

[ian48065]

do you think the parma 1/10 F-350 body will fit? thanks~iAn

[SteveK]

You have to extend the wheelbase to get most of those Parma bodies to fit, but it will work. I had my beat up Dodge Ram set on the chassis so see what it looked like, and it worked OK.

There MIGHT be enough extra space in the driveshaft to not need an extension: Just move the set screws closer to the ends of the shafts they ride on, and see how much extra is in the slider part.

[ian48065]

Thanks but im a newbie to this truck (not R/C) how would i extend the wheelbase? could you explain it super detailed lol thanks, great help!~iAn

[Maxxcrazy]

The wheelbase on a Pajero is 9.5in. The wheel base on a Parma Maxx body is 12in. You'd need to extend the wheelbase by 2.5in. You'd probibly need longer links and Traxxas sliders

[ian48065]

no no the parma maxx body is for a maxx! I ment the 1/10 350 single cab. Theres no messurement (sp) for the wheel base though~iAn

[SteveK]

To mount that body you will likely need to extend the wheelbase a little. I had my Parma Dodge Ram on my Pajero while it was apart, and you don't need too much more.

To extend the wheelbase you will need some new upper and lower links (You could try the second set of holes for a longer wheelbase, but it might not fit exactly): You'll need some rod material, rod ends, and a new way to mount the rear shocks.

To make new rods you'll need some Traxxas rod-ends, 3/16" OD aluinum tubing (The thick-walled kind), some 4-40 threaded rod (2" screws with their heads cut off would work), and a4-40 tap. Use longer sections of threaded rod to make a tie-rods, to set the proper length. Then measure gap between the rod-ends after it's all set, and cut the aluminum tubing to that length, maybe minus a millimeter or two for adjustment (Adding or removing washers to get just the right length).

Tap the aluminum to about 1/2-1" in on each end, going slowly and backing up occasionally to clear the swarf (Yes, that's what the shavings are called). Some oil helps ease the tapping process. Insert the threaded rod into the aluminum, leaving enough sticking out on each end to thread fully into the Traxxas rod-ends. Some Sho Goo or thread-locker will help keep the rod in the aluminum tube; It should stay in the plastic rod-end just fine.

After all the rods are built, measure to see that each rod of the same pair is the same length. The actual length isn't that critical, nor is the relationship between the upper and lower rods (Within reason: Don't want the pinion angle all out of whack), but you want the rods the same on the left and right of the truck so it tracks straight.

After that's all set, you need a new shock mount on the rear axle. Right-angle aluminum stock it best, bolted to existing holes in the rear axle. Change the screws to threaded ones with nuts if need be. Change the rear shock pivot to a ball and rod end for more free movement.

Like I said before, there might be enough slack in the stock driveshaft to not need a new one. If you do, you can try a Traxxas slider shaft, Maxx or another vehicle maybe, or an Allen wrench with the right angle cut off (I forget the diameter: A site with a custom Jugg had that mod). The slider is probably easier.

[SteveK]

Here are the parts I would suggest using:

-1 pack will take car of the rear suspension, lower shock ends, steering links, and even the front camber links:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ81&P=7

- Use these to fine-tune the length of the finished rods: Just take off one end and add or remove washers until it's right. 2 packs would be better than 1:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2767&P=7

- Your local shop probably sells these in singles. I'd buy at least two, so you can make the test-rods and have enough left for the finished ones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD871&P=7

- Use these together to tap the aluminum rod. Sears, Home Depot, etc sell both.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE214&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE225&P=7

- This is for the body of the rods. Your LHS sells this in singles as well.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS020&P=7

- Something like this will make cutting the aluminum quick and easy, and the ends will stay square. I use little c-clamps to hold a squared-off block of wood in one end, to act as a stop, ensuring multiple rods will be the same length if each butts up against it. Definitely get the metal box with the grooves in the bottom:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKZ02&P=7

Use some regular hardware store aluminum angle for the shock mounts. I haven't finalized a mount for mine yet (Took it all apart to add bearings, and do that: Did the bearings, still futzing with the rear shocks) but when I do I'll post pictures.

[ian48065]

wow! thanks so much i have some traxxas sliders left over so i will try that first. It that doesnt work then i ll go to the rods, again thanks for typing all of that!~iAn

[ian48065]

one more question how does the body mount on there, i know of the two front body mounts, but does the tailgat mount on the two rear ones?~iAn

[SteveK]

No, the stock rear mounts will not likely work at all, so just use some vertical posts like the front. There are holes in the chassis for them.

I like the white Duratrax posts, the ones with the black collar that locks with a setscrew.

[ian48065]

I can not thank you enough for this info!~iAn

[Doomed]

SteveK is the man!

Here are some older pics runing with Baja King tires and wheels.

[Doomed]

.

[Doomed]

Here's my feet after it went into some really soft mud and couldn't roll out!

[ian48065]

did you make those black windows in the back or do they come like that?~iAn

[Doomed]

Yes, I sprayed them with black paint.

[Maxxcrazy]

Nice. You sprayed over the decals?

I plan on cutting up my Hummer tires to actually give them grip, They have the same grip as slicks now. I plan on making then sort of like paddle shaped. just gonna cut about 10 or so "|/" 's into each tire. Should give it good grip for crawling and mudding. I'm gonna buy a stick pack so I can finnaly get it running. Then I'll make a huge mud patch and put rocks to crawl over in it.

[Doomed]

I actually cut the decals around the windows and removed them. The blade cuts into the lexan so beware. I don't care about the condition of the body because I have another one I working on. And I have rolled the truck down a hill about 7,000 times!

[Maxxcrazy]

I cut the tires. I'll get some pics later. It should improve traction 100 times. I've see people cut out everyother tread on hummer tires, but I just cut horizonally across the tire about 8 or 9 times. Then in between each cut, it put a little V shape in for forward and reverse traction. The other meathod just increases forward traction. I'm installing them right now, They look mean.

BTW, I used a grinder. It worked a lot better than a dremel for what I had to do.

[Doomed]

That sounds pretty cool, I definetly would like to see the finished product when your done. I always wanted to get some of those, but as you and other people have said they have horrible traction stock. Should be cool.

[Maxxcrazy]

[IMG]http://www.******.net/media/jero200.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.******.net/media/jero201.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.******.net/media/jero202.jpg[/IMG]

[Doomed]

Those look evil! Very cool, whats your first thoughts on traction?

[Maxxcrazy]

The tread is very rough (thats a good thing), so it should grip very well. I'll probibly go to the LHS sometime this week to pick up a battery pack.

Believe it or not, That pic was shot in the same place the ice pics were shot. The feild gets frozen over when it rains, and farmers plant corn in the spring.

[Doomed]

Maxxcrazy-

I just noticed, are you haveing a little servo problem in that last pic?