[SteveK]

Automotive brake fluid works as well.

I wouldn't sweat damaging the chrome: With Alclad chrome paint you can 're-chrome' just about anything you want. A lot of model guys completely strip their chrome-plated pieces, so they they sand and trim and otherwise work on them without worry, and then spray them with Alclad and get a great finish as well.

[dabait]

Yep... forgot about that one. In fact, that may well work on lacquers... I know it will take off normal automotive paint (don't ask me how I know that).

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Thank you very much guys for the suggestions, the automotive brake fluid is readily available and I'll go for it first, the Castrol Super clean is a good idea too, but I'll have to look for it.

I really have no idea what type of paint was used on this one, but I have a good guess that this is one of those can-type spray paints around the groceries..

I'll keep you posted guys with my developments!

Thanks again!!

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Oh and by the way, can someone please post a photo of the modified rear 4-link system? I got crossed-eyed looking for it on the entire thread..

thanks!!

[Zillon]

There ya go.

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Thanks Zillion for the photo...

I have started dipping the bodyshell into a pan of brakefluid, it took about 3-hours partly submerged to have this result.

I helped speed-up the process by scrubbing the paint to expose the inner layers of the body... unfortunately there was 3 layer of color on the body, black, red and the last white top-over job to cover-up everything.. It was difficult though to scrub them off.

Here is a disturbing picture of how it looks like now...

[dabait]

Slow going! With the Castrol Super Clean (found at auto-parts stores), you get about the same results in that time. I'd just soak parts overnight, and then the paint would just slough off. I had to use a plastic bristle brush to help the paint out of the nooks-n-crannies.

[SteveK]

Brake fluid does work, but it works best if you completely submerge the part, and you have to keep it in an airtiight container: Otherwise the fluid loses it's potency. It's easy enough to do model car parts, just get a shoebox-size Tupperware bin a couple of bottles of brake fluid and fill it up.

With a big R/C body, I would get a container large enough for the whole body, and then just put an inch or two of fluid on the bottom, doing one side at a time.

The longer it soaks, the easier it comes off. And some kind of spray, either an airbrush with water/alcohol, or compressed air, or even a small squirt bottle with alcohol in it, really helps getting into the nooks and cranniers. It's worth it to spend some time getting into all those little places with Q-tips and toothbrushes and whatever else.

[adult_squid]

Does anybody know where i can buy those pajero tires seperately?

[Zillon]

Right HERE.

29.99 for 4 tires. Not cheap, but at least you can get ahold of them.

[adult_squid]

thanks zillon
do you know where i can get the wheels?

[DCLXVI]

Have you tried to TowerHobbies? Sometimes you have to search for the Tamiya part number...

[Dongskie Pinoy]

SteveK: I agree, I'll have to dip the body part-by-part, I started off with the roof and it cleared well, except for the sides when the fluid lost its potency.

I am making progress, it would feel really good when this gets cleaned up..

Thanks!!

[adult_squid]

can you use regular touring car wheels with the tires?

[Doomed]

Yes, regular touring car wheels fit.

[4wdmt]

hey guys, the tuoreg is up on tamiya english website. it seems its going to be released anytime in the near future. the good thing is its on kit form, with oil shocks and optional locking rear diffs part, just like the old 'jero.

[adult_squid]

26 or 24mm?

[Doomed]

26mm work great...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXNV38&P=K

[trw]

I'd suggest getting better tires instead of the stock ones.

after driving around a long time with these new Proline Dirt Hawg 2.2s the stock tires seem poor in all areas.

The prolines have sky high grip and extremly good self cleaning, plus they are nice and soft so they run well on rocks as well, and they dont overheat the motor as badly as the stock ones do.

(yes i did some testing with this theory) stock tires made the motor produce more heat then the new Prolines did.

and will the brake fluid idea work on hard lexan bodies with paint on em? like the stock Pajero body, cause I'd like to repaint it.

[SteveK]

Only one way to find out...

You could always snip off a tiny piece, like from the fender or under the window decal (Just use some black Monokote for windows later) and try it in brake fluid.

I wish I had a set of the narrow Dirt Hawgs, but I bought the wider ones and the HPI wheels before I even had the Pajero. I think I bought them for some kind of rally-to-truck conversion, but I can't remember now. The wide ones still fit, but are just a hair too wide to fit the stock body without a little rubbing on full compression and steering lock.

[trw]

you get rubbing? i got the widers ones to...the 2.2s and i have no problem with rubbing.....but then again im running HPI Rs4 Rally shocks which are when mixed in with the stock shock end ball cup are taller then the stock shocks.

[SteveK]

I don't think I get any rubbing, it just gets very close on the body when the suspension is bottomed out. I have just mounted them, I haven't run them yet.

[Zillon]

Has anyone found out if the brake fluid will work on stripping the stock lexan body?

I attempted to use Trinity Body Blast on my body, and it didn't work at all... makes me wonder if this is even paint that Tamiya puts on the body.

[Doomed]

I gave up on trying to strip the stock silver off of my XB body. I tried Bolink Body Wash, Trinity Body Blast, brake fluid, 3m Gum and Tar remover, denatured alcohol, nitro fuel and even a little voodoo. I managed to remove about 1/3 of the paint in some areas.

[Zillon]

Damn... really sucks that stock bodies from Tamiya are 53 bucks or so.