HPI Super Nitro Rs4 - Page 13

popsracer · #**301** 02-27-2003, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
With 3-4 degree toe ata rear, you will have a hard time to get a straight line capability. The most I did on rear is 2.5 degree on my Serpents and NTC3.....SNRS4 stock setting are just enough, try your camber/shock setting to increase rear traction.

I only run Rubber on my Super and race mostly on low/poor traction parking lot tracks. 2 degress rear toe just isn't enough. For a BIG permanent track 2 degs is fine, especially with Foams. If you've raced HPI Nitro cars for a while, you know that any more than 0.5 deg camber in the rear is a bad thing. This applies to the Super as well.

Thanks,

Rookie Solara · #**302** 02-27-2003, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by popsracer
I only run Rubber on my Super and race mostly on low/poor traction parking lot tracks. 2 degress rear toe just isn't enough. For a BIG permanent track 2 degs is fine, especially with Foams. If you've raced HPI Nitro cars for a while, you know that any more than 0.5 deg camber in the rear is a bad thing. This applies to the Super as well.

Thanks,

Thanks for the head up.......I will try all the setting on my SNRS4 this coming season, but now, I am very worry about the rear camber.......if HPI cars cannot even run on a -1 or more camber at rear, I will sell the car ASAP.........almost all my car run min. -1.5 camber at rear.........

I ran -1.5 front and -2.5 rear on camber. toe are 0 front and stock rear (-1.5 toe I think)

popsracer · #**303** 02-27-2003, 10:59 PM

I know that you did alot of modifications to puit the SG shaft engine in your Super, but I also thought you had big Foams on the car too. If your running Foams it should not be a problem.

Rookie Solara · #**304** 03-01-2003, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by popsracer
I know that you did alot of modifications to puit the SG shaft engine in your Super, but I also thought you had big Foams on the car too. If your running Foams it should not be a problem.

No.....I totally understand you concern, I am not allow to run FOAM cause I am aimming to the CHALLENGE this year, so I have to use 33R and low-bounce insert for this season...........

Well, it is still too cold outside, I will let you know how the 2 degree rear camber works on my car.........beside the ENGINE mount modification, my SNRS4 is very much stock, except the Serpent Shocks....again, try not to be TOO OUTLAW looking on HPI Challenge.

popsracer · #**305** 03-01-2003, 11:48 AM

Rookie Solara;

You might want to scan the Challenge rules to see if the Serpent shock will be legal. HPI is very strict about what they allow on their cars for the race. So far Vegas is closest to me.
I recently tried the 27R's on a cold night race and they worked pretty good. Of course everyone else was running Foams on their 1/10th scales. I think that with 2 degrees Rear Camber the Rear end of the Car is going to step out in Mid-corner (from past experience) 1/2 Degs in the Rear is usually Ideal.

I posted a question and the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST.

My Fantom .15SE should be here by Monday. Trying something different this time. Hope it's got enough power for me.

Later,

Rookie Solara · #**306** 03-01-2003, 12:25 PM

Well, SNRS4 class in HPI Challenge is probably the most OPEN CLASS amount all the classes in HPI challenge, my Serpent Shocks are NO PERFORMANCE GAIN compare to HPI shocks.....also, SNRS4 class is modified class, as long as I am not using the Wolfpack belt revonfigeration platform or those pillow balls system, I am fine (actually, I send pics to HPI on HPI forum and they do approve that)

My only concern is my Associated/Wolfpack 2-speed hub modification, it is just a better 2-speed clutch system better then HPI, not going to make my car faster, but just shift better.....and so far, they didn't say anything

I am planning to go to the Michigan one, and I heard they are very straight on car inspection, but again, I have the single speed and all the stock parts for emergency restore (if that happen to me my car is way faster then the other).....

About foams, I do have several sets for local race, but again, running foams on any cars are like "who need setting"....foams can correct all kind of error or mistake about setting, for me, that won't help me to learn more about HPI car, again, I know I can only do "THAT MUCH" on HPI car (compared to all my Serpents and AE chassis), but I still have good faith on the SNRS4.

One thing I know......glueing rubber tyres SUCKS.

popsracer · #**307** 03-01-2003, 01:52 PM

Rookie Solara;

Gluing HPI and Pro-Line rubber tires is a pain. 1/10th Sorex tires mount and glue so nice it's almost fun. Really.

The reason I mentioned the SN Rally, is with the Nitro-3 shock towers, you now have the option of raising the Camber Link mounting positions and this seems to make the Nitro-3's handle MUCH better than the older Cars.This should equally as well on the SN Rally.
I devised a way to do it on the Nitro-2's and am testing the Mod on my Super Nitro. All I can say is both Cars handle better. Less problems with the Rear end being loose and a gain in overall steering too. But I don't think it would be legal for the HPI Challenge races as it involves re-drilling the inner Camber link mounting blocks.
I think on the SN Rally, it would be a matter of just bolting on the Nitro-3 shock towers and using shorter shocks to get 5mm ride height. If anything it should handle better than the Belt cars just because of the Camber link locations and raised roll centers.

popsracer · #**308** 03-01-2003, 01:59 PM

For me, ALL of the HPI cars that I've owned have NEVER liked more than 1/2 degree of Camber in the Front and Rear. For the best overall grip F/R, -0- deg Camber in the Front, -0- Front Toe and -1/2 deg Camber in the Rear. Any more and that end of the car becomes looser.
I have quite a few friends that raced HPI's for a few years also and they agree on the Camber settings. The newer shaft drive cars work good with a more normal Camber setting of -1 degs.

popsracer · #**309** 03-06-2003, 01:18 PM

Guys;

I just finished installing a new Fantom .15SE slide carb engine in my Super. This engine is Identical to the HPI SS engines in construction. It has revised porting and a Turbo Crank. Only thing is I had to go back to the P/S engine mounts and flywheel, to get the carb slide to clear the upper deck. Might be a good thing as I usually race on tracks that are less than Ideal in traction anymore.

popsracer · #**310** 03-07-2003, 12:31 AM

Guys;

I got to run a few tanks today through the new Fantom .15 that I installed in my Super. I had a hard time getting the head temperature above 200F as the break-in sheet recommends. BUT, I'm telling you that this Engine is Balistic. It feels faster than my Picco .15 ever was and even faster than the Rear Exhaust engines in my 1/10 cars. This was with rich break-in settings.

Going to race it this weekend, so well see how it fairs on the track. I don't think it is going to dissapoint me though.
Just gotta work on that Rear toe-in now to get some more rear bite. I know exactly how I'm going to do it. Just have to have a steady hand to avoid any excess slop. (it's a secret still)

If it works well, I'll post how I did it and some pics of the work and some pics of my Rear Camber link Mod for the Super too.

talk later.

adlawoo · #**311** 03-07-2003, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by popsracer

I posted a question and the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST.

Can I jump in here? You mentioned that you got a SNR and I got one too with the same set-up. I mean, on-road not off-road. I call mines a SNR RTR3, coz it is single speed for now - with a gearing of 18/52 and 15FE, slick tires(33R), HPI Graphite F/R Shock Tower and 1/10 shocks with travel limiters F/R from my Mini Nitro RS4, Green coil springs F/R - my ride height is 4-5mm or less. With this, it runs like its on rails - fun..fun..fun

Now I'm thinking of putting a Nitro3 two speed with 19/23 pinions, and it will a SNR Type SS after installing a 15SS. Are you running with a 2 Speed Tranny? Thanks!

popsracer · #**312** 03-07-2003, 11:06 AM

adlawoo;

I race, so a 2spd is mandatory.

Guy;

Got the new Fantom engine running in my Super. This engine is Balistic. I can honestly say, that I think it is the Most powerfull engine that I've ever owned. We'll see how it does on the racetrack tomorrow.

Popsracer.

adlawoo · #**313** 03-07-2003, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by popsracer
adlawoo;

I race, so a 2spd is mandatory.

Popsracer.

But which one are you running? The NMT's or the Nitro3's 2 speed and may I know please your gear set up......Thanks!

popsracer · #**314** 03-07-2003, 09:10 PM

Quote:

I posted a question on the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST. I now think the Fantom .15 is faster.

Sorry, if you'd read further back in the thread you would have seen that I have the Belt Driven version of the Super Nitro. My post was a "What If" scenario because I think the Shaft Drive Cars handle much better than the belt driven ones.

Other than the gear ratios (which you can change), there should be no difference in the NMT and Nitro-3, 2spds. The Drive lines on all 3 Cars is almost identical.

rc_king1 · #**315** 03-14-2003, 04:40 PM

What are your opions on HPI super tires? I am looking for spring and summer tires to use for this up and coming race season. How well do the 35R work in hot California weather? The track surface is paved not sealed and its pretty smooth. Most if not all the local racers (1/10th scale touring) are running foam tires with liitle complaint for tire wear. Another question is about HPI inserts for their tires. Do I want to use low bounce or just stick with the pro strips? Thanks for your time.

quisanoj001 · #**316** 03-15-2003, 01:04 AM

I have been using the 33R tires with the firm insert strips. I went to get a set of the 35R tires but the shop was out.33R tires work great until the temps get to over 130-135 deg. thats when the 35R should work great. I use them on my 1/10th nitro and love them. I'm sure it should work with the supers also.

Dropkicked · #**317** 03-15-2003, 10:26 PM

I got the 2-speed in mine yesterday, and took it out today for some play at the local high schoold brand new parking lot. I'm having alot of trouble getting this thing to go in a straight line. If I get on the throttle it pulls pretty bad to one side, and the tires break loose pretty easily sending into kamikazee mode. I am really liking the car now and would like to get a setup board so I can try to get the suspension set properly. Problem is which one do I buy? Hudy 1/10th, or 1/8th? Or should I try to track down the integy ones that rookie solara posted.

Currently:

Engine: Traxxas 2.5 rear exhaust
Tires: foam 40mm rear, 36 mm front
Shock: HPI RS4 3ss
Springs: HPI Black progressives front and rear
Oil: 40 wt front and rear
Shock preload: 2mm front
Wheelbase: 300mm

as far as toe, camber, etc. everything is as close to zero as I can get without a setup board.

Any advice is greatly appreciated,

Drop

BTW: The traxxas engine rocks! I was out with another guy with a mostly stock super nitro, and he can't even come close to touching it. The set screw in the 2 speed backed out leaving me stuck in first, and I was smoking him both off the line, and top end with only first gear and him with a working 2 speed.

popsracer · #**318** 03-15-2003, 11:56 PM

Guys;

Is anyone going to give it up on what parts are needed to install the HPI 2spd clutchbell onto the Traxxas 2.5 or sirio 3.0??? Alot of of us would like to know how you did this. PLEASE!!!

Dropkicked;

I have the Integy 1/10th Set-up Gauges and they work OK on the Super. I use a piece of 1/4" Tempered glass for my Set-up board (that's probably 35 years old!)
The pulling to one side under power is caused by chassis/suspension tweak. Shock length uneven side to side, Droop uneven. There is more pressure on the opposite side that the car is pulling to. Usually the Rear of the Car is the culprit.
If the surface you are running on has any dirt or dust (even a little), Foams shouldn't be used.
Put a drop of Thread lock (Blue) on the 2spd adjustment screw, roll it between your fingers to remove the excess and reinstall the screw. this should keep it from backing out on it's own. DO NOT put the Thread lock down the screw hole for the obvious reasons.

How bout some pics of the 2.5 and 2spd installation???

Dropkicked · #**319** 03-16-2003, 12:48 AM

Popsracer, the 2-speed install on the 2.5 is actually really easy. All you need is OFNA part number 10099 (clutch shim kit). That will give you the proper shaft length. Look up the part number on tower, and you'll see. Someone said something along the lines of "you absolutely must use adjustable engine mounts". ummm, *cough* ******** *cough*. I'm using the stock mounts. I had to widen the mounting holes about 1/16" so it would mesh properly, and grind a little off the front of the forward engine mount, all of about 10 minutes of work. Adjustables will give you more play, but some careful dremeling works fine also.

As for the sirio .18, I think you're S.O.L. Robin from unlimited engineering had the crank on the sirio tapped so he could use a screw in the end of it and he says it works great but it also cost him $125+ to get it tapped. Keep in mind that the guy owns the company that makes the supermaxx parts and he doesn't even have the equipment to do it.

I'll get some pictures of the 2-speed setup up here tomorrow. I'm gonna do a complete tear down tomorrow to get all the crap from the parking lot off it anyway, so I'll get some detailed pics for ya.

Drop

talon51 · #**320** 03-17-2003, 06:30 PM

I'm going to be getting a Super Nitro pretty soon in a trade, and I need to know what the part # is for the lowered shock and body mounts so I can use the BMW V12 body. Its coming with a 2 speed transmission, and other than that, its stock, I think. I'm gonna use it mainly as a parking lot racer, but I'm also gonna race it at the HPI challege, so I'm gonna throw in a Sirio .12 Outlaw in there. Its gonna be a screamer...I need the threaded crank right? I'd also like to fit the Nitro 3 clutch assembly on it so I don't have to worry about buying a whole load of clutchbells.
I'll let ya know how it turns out...

Later,
Talon

popsracer · #**321** 03-19-2003, 01:53 AM

Actually, the BMW LMR and the Toyota GT1 bodies COME with the mounts inside the package. As for a seperate PN, try the HPI website.
Would be interesting to know if the Nitro-3 gear spacing is compatable with the older Fixed pinion clutchbells.

Dropkicked;

It is my understanding that the Standard Crank from the Sirio .15 will fit the .18 engine. (saw this on the Trinity website) Has to be alot cheaper than $125 for a Crankshaft.
BTW, I thought the clutch mounting on the Shafts of the Sirio .18 and the TRX 2.5 was exactly the same. The Sirio is supposed to be a drop-in replacement.

Thanks,

Dropkicked · #**322** 03-19-2003, 02:05 AM

Popsracer,

The clutch mounting is supose to be exactly the same the only difference is that the 2.5 uses a screw in the end, and the sirio uses an e-clip. The sirio has an indentation in the end of the crank, so in most of the pictures it looks like it might be tapped but it is not. I have'nt gotten around to cleaning up the 2.5 yet, so no pics of the clutchbell install. I should be able to get it done tomorrow.

Drop

talon51 · #**323** 03-19-2003, 12:23 PM

Yeah, I found that out last night when I was looking at bodies on Tower hobbies, thanks for the info. The gear spacing for the Nitro 3 transmission looks to be the same, or at least very close to the SN 2 speed. I'll post some pics of them to compare...
The Nitro 3 clutch:

and the old style clutchbells:

Looks like they are almost exatly the same too me. Anyone else...

popsracer · #**324** 03-19-2003, 12:35 PM

talon51;

The MAJOR difference that I see is where the retaining Screw goes into the end of the Clutch Pilot Shaft. The one piece Bells have the screw at the end. On the Nitro-3 Bells, the screw is inset. Might need a different Pilot shaft for it to work. (a few $$) Everything else looks pretty close.

Let us know if you decide to do it.

Dropkicked · #**325** 03-19-2003, 01:02 PM

I don't think the inset screw will be a problem. That just tells me that you can use a 10mm pilot shaft instead of the longer one. I would think that that type of slutch setup would be perfect for the traxxas ips shaft, or any engine with a short pilot shaft. For a long shaft a you probably just have to throw several shims in there.

I'm gonna give this a shot. I want to see what my super will do with say 23-37 second gear

If anyone want's to figure out speed, the engine i'm using claims 40,000+ rpms, and has been dynoed at over 31,000.

Drop