HPI Super Nitro Rs4 - Page 15

wilson_bryant · #**351** 03-22-2003, 11:59 PM

oh sorry about that. it is the stock .15 FE with purple head. i got the car for X-Mas it only has alittle more than a gallon of traxxas 20% thorugh it.

ill try to richin it up tomarrow that ma be it is alittle more than 2 turns out on the high shpped (no low speed).

i am going to get a .15 CV-X Hyper

is that a good engine

oh yah after i run it for as long as it will stay running it seams like it has very little compression but when it cools it has more

popsracer · #**352** 03-23-2003, 11:09 AM

wilson_bryant;

There is a very simple way to check to see if the engine is worn out.

Loosen the 4 screws that hold the Cylinder Head on and remove it. With the Piston at the bottom of the cylinder, look for any Brass showing through the Nickle plating inside on the Cylinder walls. If there is Brass showing (it will usually be opposite the exhaust port) the Piston and Sleeve are worn or wearing out.
Reinstall the Head, Hold it level with your Thumb and gently bring the screws down evenly. Tighten them up in a criss-cross pattern very snug.

This is a VERY common problem people have with the HPI 15FE. They usually tend to lean the engine out more than they should to get decent power out of it and being a Nickle/Brass sleeve, it will wear VERY quickly at temperatures above 280_F.

You have a couple of choices.

HPI sells a Rebuilt/Upgrade kit for the 15FE, that comes with an ABC Piston ,Sleeve and Rod, Better Carb and Cylinder Head. The Kit is reasonably priced and comes in 3 stages and prices.

If you go the O.S. 15CVRX route, I have one in our T-Maxx and this is a VERY Powerful engine (great for the Super too), though on the Expensive side with the Pull-Start.

Here is the link to the Upgrade:HPI Speed Shop

wilson_bryant · #**353** 03-23-2003, 02:45 PM

i dont know if i want to spend that much on this engine.

and i am only getting the CV-X Hyper for 65 bucks a great deal.

wilson_bryant · #**354** 03-23-2003, 08:53 PM

update: i took apart my engine and the sleeve has no brass showing but.... the piston can be pushed up the sleeve most of the way it will stop about 1mm from the top of the sleve

then with a little effort it will be flush with the top of the sleeve

. i am pretty sure that this means the sleeve is worn

and i need a new one

, right

Dropkicked · #**355** 03-23-2003, 09:03 PM

yup, it sounds like your already leaning to a new engine, so i'd just use the piston and conrod as a keychain, and the rest as a paperweight. Sorry.

Drop

wilson_bryant · #**356** 03-23-2003, 09:08 PM

thats a good idea...a keychain. but now i have to wait till the end of the week to drive it again

well thanks anyway

popsracer · #**357** 03-23-2003, 11:22 PM

wilson_bryant;

The Tightness with the Piston flush to the top of the sleeve is because the cylinder head sits there. The piston should feel that way about 1/4" from the top in a brand new engine.
Without any Brass showing on the sleeve, I would reassemble and try opening the needle a 1/8-1/4 turn (counter clockwise) and see if it runs cooler/longer.
Normally on the 15FE, they will run until enough of the Nickle plating is worn off to show the Brass of the sleeve.

One thing I neglected to mention is, just 1 run without an Air Filter can Destroy an engine. All it takes is a few seconds without a Filter on a dusty surface and the damage is done. This will show up on the Piston as Scratches, like it has been Sanded (and it has, by the dust).

popsracer · #**358** 03-23-2003, 11:27 PM

Guys;

Well so far no luck with the Foams on my Super. Couldn't get Foam Tires to work on my 1/10th either. Rubber tires worked great on our Reflex's, but I didn't bring the Rubbers for the Super to try them too.

Good news is I had plenty of time to do some Motor testing with my HPI Pro-3 and it was hooked-up!

Later, Steven (popsracer)

Dropkicked · #**359** 03-23-2003, 11:42 PM

well, your doin better than I am. I swear i'm never going to get this car to run the way i want it too. I ran it with rubber tires the other day, and they were better than my foams, but it's just one thing after another. /\ the aforementioned dogbone problem. If I can track down all the pieces I might build CVDs for the front tomorrow, but if not it's off to Al's for some universals. I've got the engine running great, and the 2-speed shifting just right, but handling is horrible. The steering slop is'nt helping anything either. Hopefully I can get it somewhat dialed in in time to get a thrashing by Rookie Solara, Walt and the rest at tinley.

Drop

wilson_bryant · #**360** 03-23-2003, 11:58 PM

thanks any way steven. i am just going to use this engine as a paper wt. and install the O.S.

and i tried to open the needles up to factory settings and that did not do anygood

Rookie Solara · #**361** 03-24-2003, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dropkicked
BTW I can't believe how FREAKIN CLEAN Rookie Solara's super is. Has that thing been driven??

That is a used SNRS4........and you knew we don't see 60 degrees untill the last couple of weeks, so it is NO RUN ZONE for my RC cars except Micros.......

Anyhow, use your rubbers, and then the foams, foams need to run on something 70 degree and higher, so I don't think you did have that luxury in Chicago from the last 6 months......

When you are at HTOP and Tinley, we will show you how to waste your money on tires........

popsracer · #**362** 03-24-2003, 02:05 PM

The HPI Universals wear and develop slop VERY quickly. Keep the joints lubed to help with the wear problem. The slop will cause the Car to pull under acceleration.

For the Steering slop, purchase a set of 'Rocket City' 3/16" Ball link kits and use a piece of threaded rod to connect. Use the RC links to replace the link wire in the Steering. Just don't use the Standoffs under the Balls as the linkage will hit the diff case.
This removes almost all of the Steering slop, lasts forever, ALL of my HPI's have had this done. Bearings and new RPM Ball cups take care of the rest.

Steven (popsracer)

Dropkicked · #**363** 03-24-2003, 06:50 PM

ok, LHS doesn't have the hpi universals. They do have everything I need to put together CVDs for the front. Are CVDs worth the $$$ compared to the HPI universals? I mean it's $30 for the universals, and $50 for cvds per pair.

Drop

popsracer · #**364** 03-24-2003, 09:20 PM

Dropkicked;

Unfortunately I do not have enough hours on mine to form an opinion as to which are better, stronger, etc.
The main reason I installed them, is the Car rolls more freely with CVD's or Universals and this gives smoother, faster corner speed. This is very noticeable on the 1/10th HPI's.
Never really had any problems with the Dog Bones.

WARNING: Do NOT use Aluminum CVD Bones or they will twist in half on a track with decent traction.

Dropkicked · #**365** 03-24-2003, 10:20 PM

Ok, I got the CVDs in. I ran into a couple of problems. 1 they wouldn't go together. The shaft that goes into the axle and excepts the set screw was unbelievably tight. a little time with some 1500 grit sand paper and that's fine. The other problem is that you can't use the rush outdrives with a front one-way. The outdrives used with the one way have a much smalleshaft. I threw some shims in so the outdrives stick out a little farther and all is well.

The results? Obviously I can't comment on durability, and we had some drizzle a little while ago and the road is slightly damp so I couldn't really go ripping around, but I did get a few minutes in. WOW! from my short run I could tell that the cvds are a huge improvement. turns way better and pulls alot less on throttle.

The weathers looking pretty bad for the rest of the week, but hopefully I can get some wheel time this weekend.

Drop

tamiyajoe · #**366** 03-26-2003, 05:56 PM

wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

PCC · #**367** 03-26-2003, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

Biggest and baddest engine that does not need mods to install would be the 15CVR or a Picco 15 rear exhaust. There are bigger and faster engines that are an almost drop-in fit but there are some mods required to install them. These would be the Traxxas 2.5 and the Sirio 18.

Wolfpack radicals came out with a pillow-ball conversion for the Super.

popsracer · #**368** 03-27-2003, 12:51 AM

Guys;

Well I'm racing on Concrete this weekend so no Super for me.

Next day out (for the Super) will be on 04/06. Let you know how things go.

number 17 · #**369** 03-27-2003, 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

I have a OS .15 cvr and it has plenty of power this motor will not disappoint you.

popsracer · #**370** 03-27-2003, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by number 17
I have a OS .15 cvr and it has plenty of power this motor will not disappoint you.

We have one (O.S. 15CVR) in our Maxx and it's a Rocket.

Number 17;

Nice Super, do you race it? I like the Threaded Shocks. (and everything else)

You can flip that 5 cell pack over and put the 3 cells on the bottom to lower the CG.
Use a piece of Servo Tape on top of the Pack before you snug it in with the Zip-tye. This will keep it from moving around.

popsracer

number 17 · #**371** 03-27-2003, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by popsracer
We have one (O.S. 15CVR) in our Maxx and it's a Rocket.

Number 17;

Nice Super, do you race it? I like the Threaded Shocks. (and everything else)

You can flip that 5 cell pack over and put the 3 cells on the bottom to lower the CG.
Use a piece of Servo Tape on top of the Pack before you snug it in with the Zip-tye. This will keep it from moving around.

popsracer

Hey Popracer
I just got it over the winter and started putting it together slowly. The 15 came from my RS4 3 that I sold, piece of crap i'm still mad that I bought that car. I plan to race the super this year first race beginning of April.

Thanks for the battery pack tip I will try that.

wilson_bryant · #**372** 03-27-2003, 11:20 PM

ok i am planning on getting a 5 cell 6volt reciever battery....my question is will this battery fit in the battery place? it looks to be too big or is it just the was the picture was takin?

number 17 · #**373** 03-27-2003, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wilson_bryant
ok i am planning on getting a 5 cell 6volt reciever battery....my question is will this battery fit in the battery place? it looks to be too big or is it just the was the picture was takin?

That should fit.

Dropkicked · #**374** 03-28-2003, 12:46 AM

any 5 cell 2/3A pack will fit. I bought mine off ebay. Some guy was selling them for like $8. Works great, 1100 pack.

Rookie Solara · #**375** 03-28-2003, 12:52 PM

As long as they are 2/3A cells, 3 on top and 2 on the bottom, it should fit the SNRS4 receiver battery bay, I made mine, and works perfectly, but I use the stock radio plate (no carbon) so it can be bent a little and give me more space....

Try to get the 1100 mah batteries, it will give you more run time.